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Servicing an Indicator Switch

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kawakid
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 15 Oct 2025    Post subject: Servicing an Indicator Switch Reply with quote

On my ER6 , the turn switch is becoming a bit of a pain, in that I really have to push it, to cancel the indicator and I'm frequently leaving it on.

My son took his full A test on Monday (coming from A2) and he got a minor for leaving it on. Crying or Very sad

Are they easily serviceable or should I just change the switch gear.

Thanks Laughing
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 15 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

My first port of call would be to spray contact cleaner or WD40 or the like in the button slot and see if that helps.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 15 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above, a scoosh of WD40 in the slot and work the switch a bit.

Better, open the switch, clean the moving parts with solvent contact cleaner then lubricate with silicone grease.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 07:04 - 16 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's either worn or got some sort of debris inside, you could open it up for a look at what's going on.
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 09:03 - 16 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all, I didn't want to open it up before as not to jinx the bike before my son had his test.

I've ordered some silicone grease, I do have some contact cleaner, I'll open it up.

Son unfortunately didn't pass his test (so still stuck on A2) and I want it right before his 2nd attempt.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 17:36 - 16 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

I once took a kill switch apart and it was tricky to get the tiny spring and plastic parts back into place (once I’d found the spring after it pinged across the garage). Hosing contact cleaner in hadn’t fixed the problem but opening it up and Emery-clothing the metal contact fixed it. An indicator switch could be the same but it might not need full disassembly. Good luck!
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 16 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, don't be afraid of opening up the switchgear housing itself, Usually two screws and it just undoes off the bar like a clamshell. You'll can see all the switches and things in there. You can usually get reasonably good access to the moving parts and contacts.

As Kasasaki Jimbo points out, stripping it further down from there is totally possible but with a vastly increased risk of small springs and ball bearings pinging off into a corner of the workshop and of you not being able to put it all back together again.
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 08:50 - 17 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

last one i did was a kawasaki zzr14 ..wd-40 is not a lubricant and proved to be a short lived solution.. took it off the handlebars and forced silicone grease into the workings with by thumb.. sorted.
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 10:17 - 17 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

kawakid wrote:


Son unfortunately didn't pass his test (so still stuck on A2) and I want it right before his 2nd attempt.



Because of the dodgy indicator? Crying or Very sad
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 15:37 - 17 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


As Kasasaki Jimbo points out, stripping it further down from there is totally possible but with a vastly increased risk of small springs and ball bearings pinging off into a corner of the workshop and of you not being able to put it all back together again.


Having rebuilt a freehub on my mountain bike earlier this year, its not something I ever want to do again...
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 16:43 - 19 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had one experience with push-to-cancel turn signal switch gear. The sticky switch was caused by petrified grease in the mechanism. I cleaned that out with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol and lubricated the assembly with dielectric grease. I was surprised at the simplicity of design; one spring, one detent ball, and two switch contacts on a plastic pivot. Any three-handed person should have no trouble reconditioning their turn signal switch and have it working like new.
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 18:46 - 19 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copycat73 wrote:
... wd-40 is not a lubricant and proved to be a short lived solution ...


It is a lubricant, just not a very effective or long lasting one ... even says so on the WD40 website Thumbs Up
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 19 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe the 'WD' in WD40 stands for 'water dispersant' which hints at its primary use Wink
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 05:35 - 20 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

BanditsHigh wrote:

It is a lubricant, just not a very effective or long lasting one ... even says so on the WD40 website Thumbs Up

it makes for quite a good flamethrower too.
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 10:24 - 20 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
I believe the 'WD' in WD40 stands for 'water dispersant' which hints at its primary use Wink


Agreed, specifically to prevent corrosion on missiles, but it's still a lubricant as well Thumbs Up
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 13:41 - 21 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all, I opened up the housing and the mechanism, well the metal plate was very rusty and the selector at the top had looked to have gone sharp.

I managed to clean it up (Without taking all the moving bits out/spring/ball bearing etc) I've greased it up with silicone grease and its soo much better.
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