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| A100man |
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 A100man World Chat Champion

Joined: 19 Aug 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 11:23 - 16 Nov 2025 Post subject: Satin Black for clutch cover - what's best? |
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Cover off XJ & needs a lick of paint..
doesn't haveto be that high temp but oil resistant IS important for those top up spills.  ____________________ Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750
Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600 |
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 15:18 - 16 Nov 2025 Post subject: |
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I've had good results with plasticote BBQ or wood stove paint. It does need to be baked on though because it's really soft before that. Ideally a few hours in the oven when the Mrs is away so she doesn't complain about the smell. It'll bake on a hot engine too but is easily marked until it's fully cured. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| A100man |
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 A100man World Chat Champion

Joined: 19 Aug 2013 Karma :   
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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| A100man |
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 A100man World Chat Champion

Joined: 19 Aug 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 11:20 - 17 Nov 2025 Post subject: |
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| stinkwheel wrote: | | A100man wrote: | Used it recently? |
Not for a while to be fair. As I remember, the woodstove stuff was matt and the BBQ stuff was satin.
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I think it went the other way around Stove was satin, but the last can I bought turned out much more matt. some internet reviews confirm..
| stinkwheel wrote: |
Tractol also do a semi-gloss black paint. It's an alkyd resin paint. It's what they used to paint farm machinery and skips with (and motorbike frames from the 1950s). It'll stand a fair bit of heat so it should be fine on casings. Best applied with a brush, it goes on looking rough and self levels. It dries in about 24h but takes quite a long time to fully harden (maybe be quicker with engine heat). Once it's fully hard, it's really tough. It does what hammerite used to do 20 years ago before they made it shit. |
Yes they did didn't they - now the brushes wash out in white spirit it's just gloss paint . It's a fairly rough old horse so maybe I'll try Tractol, although perhaps one more can of Plasti first in case I got it wrong. ____________________ Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750
Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600 |
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| WD Forte |
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 WD Forte World Chat Champion

Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Karma :   
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| A100man |
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 A100man World Chat Champion

Joined: 19 Aug 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 12:09 - 17 Nov 2025 Post subject: |
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| WD Forte wrote: | I've used rattle can satin black and silver on a CX engine once and it stood up for a good few years.
No need to get too fussy over this sort of thing.
I've also used radiator enamel which did the job too
If yer blacks too matt, waft a bit of acrylc varnish over it |
YOu're right of course but I seem to recall some streaks from where I've spilled oil in the past - but maybe it was petrol  ____________________ Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750
Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600 |
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| WD Forte |
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 WD Forte World Chat Champion

Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Karma :   
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| A100man |
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 A100man World Chat Champion

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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 16:59 - 17 Nov 2025 Post subject: |
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This is brush painted tractol. I'd tried thinning and spraying it and it went all fucked up with runs, orange peel, the works. I lost my temper, slapped a thickish coat on with a brush and went "Fine, you're painted." Come out next day to this.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMnNes8EAb09PUWZ8EGugDKqyVqorReM6yDIp502hvo1uAV96-pFeH0FpRYKmL-DyblXNEumctjytFdQz-GNkLsUk6-9Cs1PQz0LEDUluAZFuBZaobSL8aunia7hj_fP1HCi5k3FpkOfK8s2b7wloes=w1710-h962-s-no
Another one to consider is POR15 (yes the same stuff you use to seal petrol tanks). POR stands for "Paint Over Rust". It's a polyurethane coating that goes on like paint. As such it's super tough and highly thermally resistant. It has a couple of real advantages in addition to that. One is it moisture cures so putting it on in the UK climate means it will still harden. Once it's hardened, that's you done. It also self levels really well after slapping it on with a brush. Because it's a cross linked polymer, it's also very resistant to lubricants you may spill on it.
Disadvantages. Mainly it's really designed for ferrous metal and it cures to form a complete coating. If there's loose shit under it and it starts to peel off, it'll peel badly. They usually recommend getting rid of any loose shit and applying an etch adhesion promoter first, especially if it's going onto alloy.
I painted the mild steel 'spanny exhaust on my 125 with it (I acid etched it first) and it's still like a factory finish 8 months later, despite being regularly slathered in the miscellaneous 2-stroke humours that ooze out round the exhaust joints. Also proves how good its thermal properties are. A little goes a long way, I got one of the tiny tins of it and used less than half painting the exhaust. Again slapped on with a brush and self-levelled to a mirror finish (although they also do a satin version).
If you go for this, only buy as much as you're going to use in one go. If it gets moisture in the tin, it'll set in there. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| Kawasaki Jimbo |
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 Kawasaki Jimbo World Chat Champion

Joined: 09 Oct 2015 Karma :    
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 to v or not to v World Chat Champion

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| WD Forte |
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 WD Forte World Chat Champion

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 to v or not to v World Chat Champion

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