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Satin Black for clutch cover - what's best?

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A100man
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 16 Nov 2025    Post subject: Satin Black for clutch cover - what's best? Reply with quote

Cover off XJ & needs a lick of paint..

doesn't haveto be that high temp but oil resistant IS important for those top up spills. Thumbs Up
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:18 - 16 Nov 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had good results with plasticote BBQ or wood stove paint. It does need to be baked on though because it's really soft before that. Ideally a few hours in the oven when the Mrs is away so she doesn't complain about the smell. It'll bake on a hot engine too but is easily marked until it's fully cured.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 16 Nov 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I've had good results with plasticote BBQ or wood stove paint. It does need to be baked on though because it's really soft before that. Ideally a few hours in the oven when the Mrs is away so she doesn't complain about the smell. It'll bake on a hot engine too but is easily marked until it's fully cured.


YES! I used to used teh Plasticote woodstove one but IIRC it changed formula from satin to matt. perhaps I got a rogue can. Used it recently?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:28 - 16 Nov 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
Used it recently?


Not for a while to be fair. As I remember, the woodstove stuff was matt and the BBQ stuff was satin.

Tractol also do a semi-gloss black paint. It's an alkyd resin paint. It's what they used to paint farm machinery and skips with (and motorbike frames from the 1950s). It'll stand a fair bit of heat so it should be fine on casings. Best applied with a brush, it goes on looking rough and self levels. It dries in about 24h but takes quite a long time to fully harden (maybe be quicker with engine heat). Once it's fully hard, it's really tough. It does what hammerite used to do 20 years ago before they made it shit.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 11:20 - 17 Nov 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
A100man wrote:
Used it recently?


Not for a while to be fair. As I remember, the woodstove stuff was matt and the BBQ stuff was satin.

I think it went the other way around Stove was satin, but the last can I bought turned out much more matt. some internet reviews confirm..
stinkwheel wrote:

Tractol also do a semi-gloss black paint. It's an alkyd resin paint. It's what they used to paint farm machinery and skips with (and motorbike frames from the 1950s). It'll stand a fair bit of heat so it should be fine on casings. Best applied with a brush, it goes on looking rough and self levels. It dries in about 24h but takes quite a long time to fully harden (maybe be quicker with engine heat). Once it's fully hard, it's really tough. It does what hammerite used to do 20 years ago before they made it shit.


Yes they did didn't they - now the brushes wash out in white spirit it's just gloss paint Rolling Eyes . It's a fairly rough old horse so maybe I'll try Tractol, although perhaps one more can of Plasti first in case I got it wrong.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 12:04 - 17 Nov 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used rattle can satin black and silver on a CX engine once and it stood up for a good few years.
No need to get too fussy over this sort of thing.
I've also used radiator enamel which did the job too

If yer blacks too matt, waft a bit of acrylc varnish over it
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A100man
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PostPosted: 12:09 - 17 Nov 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
I've used rattle can satin black and silver on a CX engine once and it stood up for a good few years.
No need to get too fussy over this sort of thing.
I've also used radiator enamel which did the job too

If yer blacks too matt, waft a bit of acrylc varnish over it


YOu're right of course but I seem to recall some streaks from where I've spilled oil in the past - but maybe it was petrol Confused
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 12:13 - 17 Nov 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know its such a vexatious problem isn't it?
If only someone would invent a device with say a big wide end that tapered down to a narrow end for dispensing oils and other fluids our lives would be so unblighted..............
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A100man
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PostPosted: 14:22 - 17 Nov 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
I know its such a vexatious problem isn't it?
If only someone would invent a device with say a big wide end that tapered down to a narrow end for dispensing oils and other fluids our lives would be so unblighted..............


Damn you and your common sense ideas - for me its yet another of life's cruel jokes I have to contend with. Crying or Very sad
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 17 Nov 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is brush painted tractol. I'd tried thinning and spraying it and it went all fucked up with runs, orange peel, the works. I lost my temper, slapped a thickish coat on with a brush and went "Fine, you're painted." Come out next day to this.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMnNes8EAb09PUWZ8EGugDKqyVqorReM6yDIp502hvo1uAV96-pFeH0FpRYKmL-DyblXNEumctjytFdQz-GNkLsUk6-9Cs1PQz0LEDUluAZFuBZaobSL8aunia7hj_fP1HCi5k3FpkOfK8s2b7wloes=w1710-h962-s-no

Another one to consider is POR15 (yes the same stuff you use to seal petrol tanks). POR stands for "Paint Over Rust". It's a polyurethane coating that goes on like paint. As such it's super tough and highly thermally resistant. It has a couple of real advantages in addition to that. One is it moisture cures so putting it on in the UK climate means it will still harden. Once it's hardened, that's you done. It also self levels really well after slapping it on with a brush. Because it's a cross linked polymer, it's also very resistant to lubricants you may spill on it.

Disadvantages. Mainly it's really designed for ferrous metal and it cures to form a complete coating. If there's loose shit under it and it starts to peel off, it'll peel badly. They usually recommend getting rid of any loose shit and applying an etch adhesion promoter first, especially if it's going onto alloy.

I painted the mild steel 'spanny exhaust on my 125 with it (I acid etched it first) and it's still like a factory finish 8 months later, despite being regularly slathered in the miscellaneous 2-stroke humours that ooze out round the exhaust joints. Also proves how good its thermal properties are. A little goes a long way, I got one of the tiny tins of it and used less than half painting the exhaust. Again slapped on with a brush and self-levelled to a mirror finish (although they also do a satin version).

If you go for this, only buy as much as you're going to use in one go. If it gets moisture in the tin, it'll set in there.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 18:17 - 17 Nov 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
I know its such a vexatious problem isn't it?
If only someone would invent a device with say a big wide end that tapered down to a narrow end for dispensing oils and other fluids our lives would be so unblighted..............

ConePal®️
Where to send the money?
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 17 Nov 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
WD Forte wrote:
I know its such a vexatious problem isn't it?
If only someone would invent a device with say a big wide end that tapered down to a narrow end for dispensing oils and other fluids our lives would be so unblighted..............

ConePal®️
Where to send the money?

id funnel some funds into that.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 18 Nov 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Conepal! that's a snappy name,I like that
I was going with a 'variable diameter, truncated cone fluid dispenser'
but that doesn't trip off the tongue as well.

Just need to draw up a design and find a chinese factory to make them
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 18 Nov 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

you could 3d print them yourself, cut out the middle man.
maximum profits.
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