clutch at lights question.

[danclarkie]

when at traffic lights should i keep it in 1st with clutch down or go to neutral then find 1st just before i set off? i havent got my bike yet but i always leave it in 1st in my car at the lights. a biker friend of mine told me that leaving it in 1st will wear the clutch out and will smooth the plates and that since its a bike it only has small plates anyway??
help
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Bah Humbug

[Jammy-G]

Do what you want it doesn't make a difference. Don't see how disengaing the clutch can wear the plates to be honest.
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RooRoo: just like the time i stuck my finger up my arse with no lube at all and she didnt talk to me for hours

[mchaggis]

Pulling the clutch in won't fully seperate the plates, depending on how far out the biting point is set from the lever. I tend to just leave it in 1st and hold the clutch in whilst waiting, but if it's a large junction and the cycle just caught me then I'll change into neutral. Then I don't have to sit there for 3-4 minutes holding the clutch in waiting for the lights to change.

(Most) bikes have wet clutches which can cope with slipping for extended periods. I'd change into neutral if my hand is aching, or just hold the clutch in if I don't want to faff about with the Hendon shuffle.
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I must not be a troll...
Mmmm, Guinness
Discovering the delights of Hammerite and a 3/4" brush.

[loply]

I was taking my clutch apart today and from what I saw the plates will still (loosely) rub against each other even with the clutch in, as stated above.

I honestly have no idea if this is sufficient to wear them down though.

If I had to guess I would say it doesnt matter but Im just guessing- Probably someone else can confirm.
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[kawakid]

I was told for my test

That if Im at the first in the queue, then I am expected to be in first gear and ready to go.

If further back netural is fine.

When breaking, go through your gears and be down in first by the time you stop, that way your not doing an irish jig on the road.
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I've a twin and a 4.

[danclarkie]

[strag]

[Davo]

[mr.z]

A cg125 gearbox costs about £500... all the pads cost about £20, these are as cheep as bikes get...

Brakes are cheeper, made to be sacrificed... but in reality i use both at the same time more often than not... partly because it just sounds ace all the burbleing and mini backfires, especially when upseting the locals

Theroreticaly you should have it in neutral and have the back brake on while waiting... because being shunted from behind if your in first and your hand slips (which is quite likely) then you stall, and find yourself under the car thinking... shat... or give it an accidental hand full and wheelie into the oncomeing traffic...

If the lights have been on red for ages i'll stay in gear, if they just went red i'll put it in neutral... simple really
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>RidingSkills<->Tech Tips<->MyBikes<

[Mr C]

always have an escape route planned when you stop and you should be in first gear, clutch in, watching the mirrors and ready to dart down your escape route if/when you see that vectra sliding up behind you

you should really only select neutral when you have two vehicles stopped behind you giving you a decent buffer from the vectra piling into the back of them

you should never be shunted from behind using this technique
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187.3bhp = 201mph

[map]

Once upon a time there was the thing called the 'Hendon shuffle' for waiting at lights. Taught to police riders at Hendon, hence the name.

Basically approach junction in first, foot on brake. Then front brake on, switch leg down and change to neutral. When lights changing go into first, swap leg down, foot back on rear brake, release front brake. The thinking is you always have the brake on so safer from rear shunt (do a google for more info.).

However, having said all that from what I gather this shuffle is now seen as somewhat unprofessional. I believe Mr. C's comments about keeping an escape route (so keep bike in gear) is now the accepted approach.

However, having said that, if you've got a heavy clutch (or as said 2 vehicles behind you) then changing to neutral offers some relief. Clear as mud then

FYI the method you need for passing the test is just to keep it in first with the clutch in. Anything else is for advanced training.

HTH
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...and the whirlwind is in the thorn trees, it's hard for thee to kick against the pricks...
Gibbs, what did Duckie look like when he was younger?

[Fruit'n'nut]

[Mr C]

or a lump of toilet ice from a 747 falls on your head


jeez how many possibilities do you want covered
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187.3bhp = 201mph

[mchaggis]

The woman getting tired and accidentally letting her foot off the clutch is only going to hit you at maybe 5 mph though. The drunk driver who forgets to brake from 50mph might do you a little more harm.
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I must not be a troll...
Mmmm, Guinness
Discovering the delights of Hammerite and a 3/4" brush.

[Fruit'n'nut]

[alliamc]

My bike seems to only like selecting neutral when I'm chaning from first to second
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Alli x
https://www.bikepics.com/members/alliamc/

[Mr C]

[Craggles]

I always kept the clutch in/first when I did my test. I saw my instructor sat behind me in neutral, both feet down and hands off the handlebars.

If I'm sat in traffic I'll use neutral, else my left hand will fall off. If I've filtered to the front of the lights, I'll keep the clutch in - need to get going quick once they've changed!

Judging from the answers on this post - any way is fine as long as you're happy with it. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages.

Craig
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If this signature is blue, you're riding too fast

[Fruit'n'nut]