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Air bubble in the brake fluid resevoir....

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illusion
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 04 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 08 Jul 2005    Post subject: Air bubble in the brake fluid resevoir.... Reply with quote

...is this a bad thing? Does it need sorting?
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simon1221
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PostPosted: 17:39 - 08 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do your brakes feel spongy, ineffective?
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Hex
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Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 08 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its just where the fluid has taken up the space from where the brake pads have worn.

As long as the amount isn't too low I wouldnt worry about it.
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illusion
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PostPosted: 09:34 - 09 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah my brakes aren't great. They could probably do with new brake pads actually though... But the fluid is way above the minimum level
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Guest
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 22 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 09 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

So are you saying that there's a good level of fluid in the res, but there's a bubble in there as well?

If it's not coming up to the top then it's not air, I'd say it's probably water - needs a serious coat of looking at.
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 09 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't Panic... If there was water in there you would know about it as the fluid soaks up water like a sponge and your brakes would not work!

You will have a max and min mark on your reservoir as long as the fluid is between these marks you are O.K.

You cant see bubbles that make the brakes spongy as they are in your lines, try pulling the brake lever fully on and tie it there overnight, next morning you will find the brakes alot better as the air bubbles (if you have any) will have risen to the surface.
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easy
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 09 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 09 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finglonga wrote:
Don't Panic... If there was water in there you would know about it as the fluid soaks up water like a sponge and your brakes would not work!


Not always true;
Quote:

DOT5
DOT5 brake fluid is also known as "silicone" brake fluid.

Advantages:
DOT5 doesn't eat paint.
DOT5 does not absorb water and may be useful where water absorption is a problem.
DOT5 is compatible with all rubber formulations. (See more on this under disadvantages, below.)

Disadvantages:
DOT5 does NOT mix with DOT3, DOT4 or DOT5.1. Most reported problems with DOT5 are probably due to some degree of mixing with other fluid types. The best way to convert to DOT5 is to totally rebuild the hydraulic system.
Reports of DOT5 causing premature failure of rubber brake parts were more common with early DOT5 formulations. This is thought to be due to improper addition of swelling agents and has been fixed in recent formulations.
Since DOT5 does not absorb water, any moisture in the hydraulic system will "puddle" in one place. This can cause localized corrosion in the hydraulics.
Careful bleeding is required to get all of the air out of the system. Small bubbles can form in the fluid that will form large bubbles over time. It may be necessary to do a series of bleeds.
DOT5 is slightly compressible (giving a very slightly soft pedal), and has a lower boiling point than DOT4.
DOT5 is about twice as expensive as DOT4 fluid. It is also difficult to find, generally only available at selected auto parts stores.



I'd say if it's not affecting your braking then don't fiddle with it. if you're brakes are starting to feel different or are taking more travel of the lever to have the same effect or the airbubble gets bigger, then it's time to have a blummin' good loock at them. Make regular checks over the system as well. Give the lever a good squeeze and see if you can find any leaks.
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Guest
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 22 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 09 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or are you saying you can see a 'bubble' in the level window? That's ok, shows there's fluid in there


https://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/nighthawk_brakepads/reservoir.JPG
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Kram
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PostPosted: 23:56 - 09 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

both my front(braided) and rear(rubber) brakes feel spongy? and on the front i have to pull the lever along way in (adjusted fuilly out).

do i just need to bleed?
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easy
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Joined: 09 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: 00:15 - 10 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drummer wrote:
both my front(braided) and rear(rubber) brakes feel spongy? and on the front i have to pull the lever along way in (adjusted fuilly out).

do i just need to bleed?


OK try bleeding them and see what happens from there and do it soon. If you don't feel confident doing it yourself, get someone qualified to do it. As my old papy said "it don't go it don't hurt. It don't stop, you're gonna need new underpants at least. Shocked ".
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Kram
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PostPosted: 00:17 - 10 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

how hard are brakes to bleed?

how long does it take? any 'special' tools needed?
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 08:41 - 10 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drummer wrote:
how hard are brakes to bleed?

how long does it take? any 'special' tools needed?


Easy peasy Wink Helps with 2 people all you need is New brake fluid, a Jam jar or milk bottle, Spanner for your nipple (ooooh errr) a piece of hose to fit over your nipple ( Embarassed ) oh and maybe a screwdriver depending on your reservoir top.



Instructions on how to are here This is for a car but the basics are just the same. Wink
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easy
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 09 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: 09:07 - 10 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or Google Bleeding motorcycle brakes . Although this could find someone who isn't happy with the brakes on their bike. Laughing

I found this and this were usefull, but if you want to get precise instructions investing in a Haynes may be better.

As Finglonga says it's fairly straightforward to do and after you've done it just give it a few 1st gear hard stops to make sure there's no problems and then go easy on the braking for the next couple of days. Like I said above not being able to stop on a bike is not fun, so a couple of days should show if there are any long-term problems.

If there's air getting back in again, then it's time to service the calipers, lever/pedal and maybe replace the lines, just for overkill.


Last edited by easy on 17:31 - 10 Jul 2005; edited 1 time in total
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 11:54 - 10 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Bleeding brakes is not difficult (although bleeding an empty system can be a nightmare).

However on the FZR you have a standard Yamaha brake system, so the calipers are probably the problem. If they are spongy they chances are you need to clean the calipers out thorough, especially behind the seals. Possibly replace the seals as well.

By the way, the only common fluid that does not absorb water like a sponge is DOT 5 (notDOT 5.1, which is very similar to DOT 3 and DOT 4), and it is very rare to find that used. Does seem to get used on older vehicles that are doing a very low mileage as you can pretty much just stick it in the system and forget it afterwards (does not absorb water, so that is the main reason for replacing brake fluid out of the way). However it is a pain to use properly as you need to make sure every trace of water is out of the system, as otherwise the water will settle to one point in the system, boil easily causing spongy brakes when used hard, and cause corrosion.

All the best

Keith
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