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GPZ500S Ignition

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Craggles
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 11:52 - 11 Jul 2005    Post subject: GPZ500S Ignition Reply with quote

Hi,

Quick question - been having problems with my ignition barrel recently. (I think - all the electrics seem to keep going out, and the fuse is fine!)

While the engine is running/the key in the "on" position, are you supposed to be able to remove the key? I don't believe you are...

It's a 96 GPZ500S

Cheers,

Craig
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iCraig
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Joined: 05 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 12:01 - 11 Jul 2005    Post subject: Re: GPZ500S Ignition Reply with quote

Craggles wrote:
Hi,

Quick question - been having problems with my ignition barrel recently. (I think - all the electrics seem to keep going out, and the fuse is fine!)

While the engine is running/the key in the "on" position, are you supposed to be able to remove the key? I don't believe you are...

It's a 96 GPZ500S

Cheers,

Craig


No your not, but if its a non standard key, I.e. one thats been cut for the bike sometimes this happens. I dunno why but it sometimes does.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 12:09 - 11 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

As above, but likely to just be wear in the ignition barrel / key. If you have an original spare key then it might help (or get one cut from the number on the key, not just a copy of the one you already have).

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:46 - 11 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

They do 'go' after a wee bit. I have had to replace the ignition switches on two GPZ500s before. They click 'on' but don't actually switch on. Wiggling the key about can help but you eventually need to replace the switch.

Of course, another reason for the key to go straight in and out is if someone has screwdrivered the ignition at some point. Try a different key in it (anything that fits in the hole) if this turns, chances are the bike has been nicked at some point.
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Craggles
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PostPosted: 22:06 - 11 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
They do 'go' after a wee bit. I have had to replace the ignition switches on two GPZ500s before. They click 'on' but don't actually switch on. Wiggling the key about can help but you eventually need to replace the switch.


This seems to be what is happening here...

It also decides to turn "off" whilst I'm riding along. Not a nice feeling whilst overtaking a lorry.

I'll try my dad's bike key in it.

(edit: Just realised - as usual BCF members have given me the information I need quickly and easily without mocking for complete lack of mechanical knowledge - cheers!)

Craig
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 11 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

It you do need to change the lock they can be a pig to do. You will need to take off the top yoke and then drill out the bolts (or if you are lucky you can tap it round with a chisel).

They are held on normally with shear bolts. These are bolts where the head is in 2 pieces, one bit smooth and round and the other bit with a hex on it for a spanner, and this bit snaps off when the bolt gets tight.

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 11 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not on mine, maybe a different model. The bolts are hex heads and recessed into the top yoke. You can get on them but only with a really thin walled socket. The one from my 1/4" drive socket set fitted round them with a little gentle persuasion (nylon hammer to the rescue once again). Didn't even have to take the yoke off by using appropriate extension bars.

It is entirely possible that it is just the bottom part of the switch that is worn. Once it is off you can seperate the lock from the switch itself, there is a tag on the plastic switch that is turned by a slot in the bottom of the metal lock. From looking at my old one the plastic switch is awffy rickety looking, you get the impression that the points where it clicks over from one position to another don't quite line up properly with the key positions. In theory you should be able to order this as a seperate part although when I have done it in the past, I just bought a second hand lockset from the breakers.

Retaining the original lock barrel would be preferrable then your key would still fit everything else too.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 23:14 - 11 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
It is entirely possible that it is just the bottom part of the switch that is worn.


I doubt it if the key can be taken out with the lock in the on position.

All the best

Keith
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Craggles
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PostPosted: 13:51 - 19 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't fancy messing around with shear bolts, dont really have the tools to do the job so I took it into Southern Motorcycles.

They've called today to say it was in fact the starter relay/main fuse bit which was corroded. They've charged me £120 odd to replace it.

How does this sound? Will be going down this afternoon to check/collect.

Cheers,

Craig
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 19 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Well, for fitting a new starter relay not cheap (the relays vary in price, Yamaha one was about £25, Honda ones are about £70), but I suspect you are mainly paying for their time chasing down the problem.

All the best

Keith
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Craggles
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PostPosted: 14:11 - 19 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Well, for fitting a new starter relay not cheap (the relays vary in price, Yamaha one was about £25, Honda ones are about £70), but I suspect you are mainly paying for their time chasing down the problem.

All the best

Keith


Yes I expect it took them a while to trace this through to that area. What's annoying is I changed the main fuse which was corroded.

Craig
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