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riichy
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: oil filter Reply with quote

ok when i finaily get my oil filter off, it says on the box 1.5~2.0kg of torque. only thing is i dont have a torque ratchet... so can i just tighten it by hand ???? Thumbs Up


riichy
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sanchezz_182
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

yup, when doing my car one i just get a rag or sumthin an giv a gd twist,, so its tight, an then a little more,,

if when u start the bike up it leakes tighen it sum more,,, simple
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 16:57 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rule of thumb:
Clean the contact area where the rubber seal seats.
Oil the rubber seal of the new filter with clean oil
Spin on the new filter till it JUST touches the engine case.
Tighten by turning by hand about 2/3 or 3/4 turn.
It should feel tight by this time (If you're not a gay body builder Laughing )
Check engine has enough oil to start
Start engine
Check for oil leaks past seal of filter
If leaking turn on a bit more (unlikely)
Stop engine and top up the oil that the engine put through the filter.
Put bike back in shed, clean floor of kitchen before mum gets home. Laughing
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riichy
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
Rule of thumb:
Clean the contact area where the rubber seal seats.
Oil the rubber seal of the new filter with clean oil
Spin on the new filter till it JUST touches the engine case.
Tighten by turning by hand about 2/3 or 3/4 turn.
It should feel tight by this time (If you're not a gay body builder Laughing )
Check engine has enough oil to start
Start engine
Check for oil leaks past seal of filter
If leaking turn on a bit more (unlikely)
Stop engine and top up the oil that the engine put through the filter.
Put bike back in shed, clean floor of kitchen before mum gets home. Laughing



walloper your a book of knowledge.. Wink thanks fella Thumbs Up
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Mr.Everready
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was a copy and paste from another site.
You don't really think he knows that stuff do you ? Rolling Eyes
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 17:10 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr.Everready wrote:
It was a copy and paste from another site.
You don't really think he knows that stuff do you ? Rolling Eyes


You cheekie monkey you. Laughing
I knew loads more than just that Laughing
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riichy
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PostPosted: 17:14 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr.Everready wrote:
It was a copy and paste from another site.
You don't really think he knows that stuff do you ? Rolling Eyes


Embarassed
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spitfire
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PostPosted: 17:18 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
Rule of thumb:
Clean the contact area where the rubber seal seats.
Oil the rubber seal of the new filter with clean oil
Spin on the new filter till it JUST touches the engine case.
Tighten by turning by hand about 2/3 or 3/4 turn.
It should feel tight by this time (If you're not a gay body builder Laughing )
Check engine has enough oil to start
Start engine
Check for oil leaks past seal of filter
If leaking turn on a bit more (unlikely)
Stop engine and top up the oil that the engine put through the filter.
Put bike back in shed, clean floor of kitchen before mum gets home. Laughing


I actually fill the new filter with clean oil as well so you don't have to top up so much, does depend on the filter type and location though
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 17:19 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

riichy wrote:
Mr.Everready wrote:
It was a copy and paste from another site.
You don't really think he knows that stuff do you ? Rolling Eyes


Embarassed


No worries rich babe, I was often told by teach' to give the others a chance to answer. Laughing
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riichy
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PostPosted: 17:46 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Embarassed[/quote]

No worries rich babe, I was often told by teach' to give the others a chance to answer. Laughing[/quote]

Laughing Laughing Laughing Thumbs Up
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Mr.Everready
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I actually fill the new filter with clean oil as well


Yup, I do that too.
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riichy
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PostPosted: 17:52 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

yer but all the oil will just spill out as soon as you trun it to put it on Confused
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spitfire
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PostPosted: 17:54 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

riichy wrote:
yer but all the oil will just spill out as soon as you trun it to put it on Confused


true....it does normally work better on cars but I just love spilling oil everywhere Laughing
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Mr.Everready
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

riichy wrote:
yer but all the oil will just spill out as soon as you trun it to put it on Confused


It does a wee bit, it's all part of the fun.
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riichy
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PostPosted: 18:17 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

you to are crazy ........ Laughing
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Technical Stop Press:

The oil filter works by catching and preventing particles suspended in the oil from causing damage to close fitting engine components.
Determined by each engine manufacturer. somewhere in the small micron department. (1 micron= 0.000045 of an inch)

By construction the flow of oil through the filter means foreign bodies reaching the 'Up Stream' side of the filter paper from the sump via the oil pump are trapped in the fine matrix (paper, steel mesh, fabric etc).
If you fill the filter prior to installation in theory you could permit debris/dirt etc to be deposited in the 'down Stream' side of the filter.
When the flow of oil through the filter picks up this material it could block a gallery or cause serious damage to engine parts.

It doesn't take much time for the oil pump to fill the filter on start up. Just don't give it a handful until engine conditions stabilise.
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spitfire
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
Technical Stop Press:

The oil filter works by catching and preventing particles suspended in the oil from causing damage to close fitting engine components.
Determined by each engine manufacturer. somewhere in the small micron department. (1 micron= 0.000045 of an inch)

By construction the flow of oil through the filter means foreign bodies reaching the 'Up Stream' side of the filter paper from the sump via the oil pump are trapped in the fine matrix (paper, steel mesh, fabric etc).
If you fill the filter prior to installation in theory you could permit debris/dirt etc to be deposited in the 'down Stream' side of the filter.
When the flow of oil through the filter picks up this material it could block a gallery or cause serious damage to engine parts.

It doesn't take much time for the oil pump to fill the filter on start up. Just don't give it a handful until engine conditions stabilise.


hum...interesting point
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Mr.Everready
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
in theory


Whistle
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riichy
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr.Everready wrote:
Quote:
in theory


Whistle




boom Wink
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh you bums you Laughing
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bish777
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wellll you should fill the filter to ensure immediate oil pressure to the engine, to prevent things grinding themselves, particularly the cams,valves etc which are particularly sensitive.

Id personally pre fill the filter to make sure the engine isnt briefly starved of oil, rather than worrying about the chance of some crud getting into the filter.
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0ddball
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PostPosted: 21:40 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's only really of use on a turbo engine, i still do it as a matter of course though.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you dismantle any engine that's been running normally aren't all the bits covered in nasty oil.
The only real concern for the 'oil pressure' is when the engine is under load and oil pushed out from friction surfaces needs to be replenished rapidly.
This is the case for most high speed machinery.
Some machines having NO oil pump rely solely on 'splash lubrication' can and do run for 20 years or more without failing.

The filter is filled within seconds of the engine starting and this is not that much longer than a normal starting cycle takes to fill galleries.
What if the bikes been parked up for a couple of months???
The last time it was running the oil was hot and the filter was full. After cooling down the oil shrinks an drains normally to sump. You have nowt but air on top of the oil now so when you start you have that 'bubble' to push out.
You cold start more times than you change a filter so where is the problem?

The pathways are shorter than on great big dirty engines so no worries.
The lubrication duty of the oil is provided by the oil molecules adhering to one and other in the oil film. (Microscopic possibly 1 molecule thick.)

Now:
If you have disassembled an engine for major surgery then it would be a good idea to turn the engine over with the plug leads off for a few seconds.
You will still have protection as you 'should' have coated everything with clean oil during assembly.
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bish777
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
When you dismantle any engine that's been running normally aren't all the bits covered in nasty oil.
The only real concern for the 'oil pressure' is when the engine is under load and oil pushed out from friction surfaces needs to be replenished rapidly.
This is the case for most high speed machinery.
Some machines having NO oil pump rely solely on 'splash lubrication' can and do run for 20 years or more without failing.


Thats larger motors that are DESIGNED that way.

On a complex engine like most modern bikes, with alot of gear in the head, look in the top of a yamaha genesis FZ/FZR/R1/R6 motor for example. Theres alot of gear in there that are on oil dependant plain bearings. Id rather make sure they didnt have to run without oil for the bare minimum of time.

My XBR500 succumbed very rapidly to poor oil feed to the head, and Its also what i believe killed my FZR1000.

So id rather not take my chances.

Its also what most manufacturers recommend, Suzuki, Yamaha and Honda certainly do.
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riichy
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 11 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

well did my oil change, and my god it made a diffrence bike runs smooth as a babys botom. plus i just put some oil on the o ring of the new filter, then put oil in and started ran fine. so why is everyone saying put oil in the filter first, wouldnt they put it on the filter box if thats what you had to do Question Confused
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