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Getting off a difficult nut

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Gazdaman
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Joined: 12 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Getting off a difficult nut Reply with quote

Ok, I'm trying to get the fork tops off my MZ. It's not so much getting enough force behind it, I can probably do that.

But as it's a fork top it's not completely horizontal, it's on a slight angle.

The forks move, and I can't really put as much force behind it as I want to because the bike moves.

Any ideas? Put the bike on its side and use its own weight to help?

Other than that I'm going to roll the bike down to a local car shop and see if they can do it.

Gaz
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Minty
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PostPosted: 16:42 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had the same problem in the past. I put the steering lock on and sat on the bike - presto Very Happy
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Gazdaman
I did a trackday!!!



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PostPosted: 16:54 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not a bad shout. MZ's don't have steering locks though. And the bike has no seat. And I don't think I'd be able to get enough force behind it from sitting on the bike. Maybe if I got a mate to sit on it.

Gaz
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18_stuart_88
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PostPosted: 16:57 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you got a paddock stand? If you put ithe back tire up and force it behind a wall.

Only thing i can come up with. Confused Smile

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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:20 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grip the front wheel between your knees as you do it?
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Guest
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Joined: 22 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 17:21 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dunno the MZ exactly, but can you loosen off the top yoke pinch bolt if fitted - it might be gripping the tube just enough to snag the frok cap.


as said, full lock, correct size socket and tap it round by hand.
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Gazdaman
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I've had the front wheel between my knees putting the paddock stand against the wall is a good idea.

(It doesn't have a stand at all)

I have been using a ring spanner though rather than a socket. I shall go and get a socket now.

Gaz
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Gazdaman
I did a trackday!!!



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PostPosted: 18:02 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just found out the weakest link in my new set-up is my ratchet.

My sockets now go roundy roundy roundy.

Got my new socket, put it on the nut, attached the ratchet, put my ETZ 251 exhaust on the ratchet for some extra leverage. *CRACK* oh goody, I thought, the nut's let go, nope. Ratchet broke.

Never mind, new ratchet tomorrow.

Gaz
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 18:08 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a short breaker bar too, Ideal for not shaggin up ratchets on tough nuts. But don't go for a big one as you can put too much leverage and break the bolt.

https://www.toolweb.com/pics/KTI24080.jpg
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Gazdaman
I did a trackday!!!



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PostPosted: 18:18 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I can't get these off I'm not quite sure what I'm going to do.

I'll get a breaker bar and a new ratchet tomorrow, anyone recommend me heating it up beforehand?


Gaz
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:31 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't. If it is anything like my Jawa, there will be a rubber o-ring seal in there somewhere under the nut.

I have a big f-off ring spanner for undoing big nuts. It is like a giant double offset ring spanner cut in half in the middle of the shaft to give two stubby ones. You put it on the nut in question then batter the end of it with a lumphammer, this will crack most things loose. You can also put a bit of scaffolding tube over the end to form the worlds longest spanner.

I presume we are talking about the big one in the top of the fork stanchion that you would remove to get the fork springs out? They shouldn't really be all that tight Confused
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Gazdaman
I did a trackday!!!



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PostPosted: 18:42 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah you're thinking of the right nut Stinkwheel.

I don't think it should be that tight, considering the engine mounts came off with no problems whatsoever. But apparently they're tight enough to break my eBay ratchet.

But I'd be surprised if these have ever come off before, so that's 16 odd years. I need to get the fork legs out, so I can mount the clipons. While they're out I may aswell change the fork seals and oil.

Gaz
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Knowlsey
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had the same problem with the gs, must have been on since day one, luckily me mate had the windy gun handy, if you do use a windy watch out, we thought that we would catch it no problem, bollicks did we, at some point someone had put a spacer in to tension the spring to obviously stop the bottoming out, the spacer went flying along with the nut, but the spring stayed there, it was the only option as the nut wasnt going to come off, just to much bounce and movement to shock it off with a hammer and wrench
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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 20:25 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put the bar at full lock, put the machine on the centre stand, and then use the spanner/ socket in such a fashion that you're pushing the bike backwards rather than sideways, if that is possible. Having the shaft of the spanner/ wrench perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the machine should more or less do that. As shown in the attached image, it should minimise any turning moment of the machine (other than that caused by the fork not being on the longitudinal axis), and should mostly just push back onto the centre stand.

Also use an extender bar, the hollow handle of my 4lb lead mallet does the trick for me. The only problem is that then I have to hit it with the 2lb hammer instead. Smile
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Gazdaman
I did a trackday!!!



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PostPosted: 20:59 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bike's so light it'd just skip along backwards, it works quite well wedging it against a wall.

I'll report back after I've tried a breaker bar on it.

Gaz
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 21:07 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazdaman wrote:
The bike's so light it'd just skip along backwards, it works quite well wedging it against a wall.


Sit on it. You will be directing the force through the bike frame then and not from the ground next to it, pulling yourself forwards with the same force as you are pulling the bike backwards.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Gazdaman
I did a trackday!!!



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PostPosted: 21:58 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can see the breaker bar slipping and removing one of my testicles..

Gaz
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DucatiEVO
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried giving the top a light 'tap' with a hammer to help dislodge the threads, then try going tighter before looser etc.
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Gazdaman
I did a trackday!!!



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PostPosted: 22:34 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done the light tap, not tried doing it up before undoing though.

Gaz
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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another approach requires the use of a 'soft-jawed vice', a woodworking one to you and me, with wooden jaws. Remove the stanchion from the machine and clamp it in the vice. With luck or a lot of rather old oak the workbench will stay put and the stanchion won't turn.
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plugger147
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

wedge the forks staight with a piece of wood,stradle the bike and grip it with your legs and pull on the breaker bar.

or just get a bloody impact driver. Laughing
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Gazdaman
I did a trackday!!!



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PostPosted: 23:02 - 16 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

BTW, this is all so I can get the fork leg out. The bolt on the fork top is bigger than the hole in the top yoke. If I could get the stantion out, I wouldn't need to take this nut off.

If I really really have to, I'll have to take the headstock apart.

Gaz
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Knowlsey
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PostPosted: 01:37 - 17 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

i would suggest you take it to your local garage as you said, if its not going to dislodge the crap on the threads, the windy gun will shock it off
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DucatiEVO
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PostPosted: 14:02 - 17 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you were near Brands you could try my 18v Impact gun on it! That sucker undoes anything! Twisted Evil
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Knowlsey
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 17 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

DucatiEVO wrote:
If you were near Brands you could try my 18v Impact gun on it! That sucker undoes anything! Twisted Evil


Thats the jobby
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