So then, you snap your sump plug..

[mchaggis]

Or rather, in this case, the oil filler cap for the final drive oil. I overtightened and snapped it without even putting much effort into it. It looks pretty much the same as a normal sump plug (wide flanged bolt with a rubber O-ring).

The plug is all out of the thread and the thread for the hole is undamaged. I shall probably go out and find a replacement plug (they appear to be pretty common things?), but while we're at it, what is suitable for a bodge repair? Some sort of chemical metal, Araldite, ...?

Another thing, I haven't really run it for long enough to get really hot, but the plug gaps have closed right up. What actually causes that? Is it because the tips have got hotter than the rest of the plug, warping it downwards?
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I must not be a troll...
Mmmm, Guinness
Discovering the delights of Hammerite and a 3/4" brush.

[Guest]

Confused me there - if the broken plug is out and you're getting a new one, and the thread in the hole is ok, what needs repairing?

[mchaggis]

[stinkwheel]

This for a shaft drive? The filler cap?

Stick anything you like in there, it shouldn't be under pressure, just to stop oil spashing out/muck getting in. If it were me I'd just use a normal bolt with a cardboard gasket underneath to seal it, or an o-ring if you have one.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[sickpup]

[Robby]

You might find an old spark plug will screw into the drain plug hole, have heard of this being done before.

Got to echo sickpup on the plugs. Sure they are the right plugs, not longer ones? Alternatively I suppose if there was a really thick layer of carbon on the piston crown that might tap them, but I'd expect it to leave a layer of carbon on the tips.

[mchaggis]

They weren't the right plugs. There are four plugs in two cylinders and only two did it. The ones which were in were DR8ES-L rather than DPR8EA-9, which are hotter. I'll see if these do it.

I've got a replacement drain cap on order.
____________________
I must not be a troll...
Mmmm, Guinness
Discovering the delights of Hammerite and a 3/4" brush.

[sickpup]

[mr.z]

Decided (after nearly a year) to change my final drive oil too, honda dont have a specified torque seting for it? weird..
Anyways, set it to 7lbft and did it up (spection port and the oil plug) same as it was before and it stayed on a year..

Agree with stinkwheel, get a normal bolt, cut it to the same length as the original and steal the old rubber o-ring or get out the ol' cornflakes packet if your really paranoid you could use some locktite thredloc, really great stuff (if a bit blimin expensive)
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>RidingSkills<->Tech Tips<->MyBikes<

[mchaggis]

I decided it would be easier to get a new one rather than find something like an M22 bolt and cut it short. I don't have any dies to tidy up a thread that big.
____________________
I must not be a troll...
Mmmm, Guinness
Discovering the delights of Hammerite and a 3/4" brush.