Rejuvenating the CBR

[Visitor Q]

Right, to start with, cosmetics arent really a factor to me so thats jsut a bonus if i can repair the crash damage.

Im thinking of spending around 200-500 on my bike at easter.

This may include routine stuff like a new chain and new battery (hasnt been started since september). Maybe even better tyres.

But what would you suggest. And vague prices... ?

I want;
- to get my suspension set up properly for my weight as the bike doesnt feel confident in corners at all
- i want to get my downpipes replaced (cheap stainless steel off ebay, hopefully a named company so they might fit and second hand to save money) as i think they will rot out at any moment and i dont want to replace them after a good dyno
- as mentioned i want it dynoed and jetted
- Also might want to change final gearing, purely to give better smoother wheelies, the ability to wheelie in second, the ability to bring it up at lower revs etc.
- Depending on cost id also like to (before sorting dynojetting) get a 'performance' air filter.

Now how much of it is a) Possible and b) necessary for smooth efficint and proper performance running?

I already have a 'race' can which is fucking with fuelling, so i NEED to at least get it dynoed and jetted.
If i get it jetted to i need to buy a Dynoject kit or will the dyno company be ok to do it Ad Hoc... ?

IF i have money left over, id like to get a new H frame, left hand fairing panel/full set if cheaper/respray as i intend to keep it till death do part anyway, new left side crash bung, possibly engine casing protectors to hide slide damage and get my seat either stitched/replaced/reupholstered...

Any advice, tips, rough ideas on costs?

Its a CBR 600 FT ('96) in red and white.
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[Visitor Q]

Also, if the CCT goes how much damage does it cause?

I ask this because although mine might mildly need doing, its not really bad. Its a mild ticking when warming up then its fine.

But its obviously a slight problem.
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China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...

[tatters]

[Kickstart]

Hi

Air filter is cheap, but a dynojet kit will cost you around 100 before paying for it to be set up. That is around half your budget gone.

Chain and sprockets will be around 80 if you fit them yourself.

If the CCT goes totally then the cam timing will probably go out, likely resulting in 16 bent valves and a very large bill (although probably more likely to cause problems at low revs). However I would suspect that a light ticking is more likely the valves needing adjusting.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Visitor Q]

[Kickstart]

Hi

They can have a play, but they are limited in what they can do. Adjust the idle mixture, change the main jets and maybe shim the needles up slightly.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Visitor Q]

[Zimbo]

The dynojet kit contains new needles of a different profile, bigger jets, new diaphram springs. The dyno people can fit new jets and adjust the current needles to improve matters, but since a large part of the bill is labour you might as well do it properly and have the dynojet kit fitted, final cost won't be that different. Cost will probably be around £200 - £250 all in (supply, fit and dyno).
I'd be amazed if you found a second hand set of downpipes on ebay or anywhere else, you'll probably need to budget for a new set, again £200 - £250 for the pipes.
New chain and sprockets - £100 ish, specify a rear sprocket a couple of teeth bigger than standard if you want to gear it down a bit.
Battery - at a guess around £50.
Suspension - again, around £50 to pay someone to set it up well for you, plus any extra on new bits you might need.

You may need to decide what to do now, and what to do another time. By the sound of it the dynojet kit and dyno is pressing, you may want to change the downpipes first though as that may have an effect on the dyno setup. If you're going to fit a performance air filter you want to do that before the dyno run as well.

Or, stick with the standard can, change the chain and sprockets and battery, have your suspension set up, and leave the performance bits till you've saved a bit more cash up???

[Visitor Q]

[Visitor Q]

double
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China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...

[Zimbo]

A dyno run should cost you about £30 ish and will tell you immediately how the bike is fueling throughout the entire rev range, will identify any tendancy to run rich or lean at any point in the rev range, and the dyno operator should be able to advise you on exactly what needs doing, if anything, to correct the fueling. Worth it for peace of mind.

Assuming the fueling issue isn't pressing, prioritise the other jobs and do them one by one till the money runs out. Top priority goes to chain and sprockets, but only if yours are worn out, if there's a bit of life in them still then perhaps sort out the suspension instead. Sounds like the downpipes amy well let you down at some stage so start looking for some, I'd start with a stainless set from Motad. You may be lucky and find a standard set of downpipes off a crashed bike second hand, worth a try, it puts off having to buy a stainless set for a bit longer!
If the fueling is bad, do that first, even if you take the cheaper option of replacing the main jets to stop it running lean. Lean running can cause serious damage to the engine over time.

As for fairings etc, I should imagine you're looking at roughly £100 second hand per fairing panel to replace them from a breaker, but you may be able to make yours look a lot better with a bit of patching and paint! Seat recovering need not be that expensive, or find a second hand seat on ebay.

[Visitor Q]

Right ive seen these headers...

Here

But im slightly concerned as they look like they are alot higher then the original.

Also, do the connections from different makes work with each other? As i have a rather aging Arrow on the CBR currently.

Or i can buy a slightly knackered set and rub them down and respray them. But thats still going to be mild steel so will go eventually.

Is it worth 200 ?
____________________
China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...

[numark1]

Suspension ££££

Downpipes £200

Jets £100 + about £60 an hour labour messing about with them

air filter £30

Sprockets £15

I would get a smaller front sprocket then you won't need a new chain.

All this shit is pricey my friend.

[Visitor Q]

[numark1]

Why do you want new downpipes, are yours rotten??

might be worth cleaning them up if you can, maybe repairing them.

You could then, drop a tooth on the front sprocket, new air filter, new dyno jet kit, fit it yourself have a dyno run then sort out teh suspension with your mate.

THe thing holding you back is the downpipes, same as me on my track bike. Highly overpriced.

[Visitor Q]

Trust me i am the anti tart, if i could avoid buying them i would.

But my pipes are holey everywhere, and i dont want to spend money on a dyno only to find the bike eats itself a week later and needs new pipes (crashing it also wouldnt be cheer inducing).

Ive fixed them with gungum already, but more will come and its just not worth the agro.

Plus stainless steel blue flames shouldnt lose their value for a good couple of years, even if i do have another off. I dont tend to have problems with SMIDSY's for some reason so id imagine it would be a lowside, thus leaving them intact.
____________________
China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...

[Kickstart]

Hi

A quick dyno run should be useful to know where it is running rich / lean. Might be that it is lean over a wide band of the mid range and you can get away with shimming the needles, but equally it might be that it is rich as hell at 5000rpm and lean elsewhere, resulting in a different needle profile being needed.

Suspect those Blue Flame pipes would definatly need the jetting playing with (rather different design, far more likely to screw up the jetting than just a noisy silencer). Also suspect those pipes are designed to fit a certain can rather than join up to the stock silencer / similar mounted race can.

D&K do some replacement down pipes which may be cheaper and require less fiddling around with.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Visitor Q]

[Kickstart]

[Visitor Q]

[EuropeanNC30R...]

The CBR400 DK downpipes are known to cause a mid-range flatspot that is very hard to get rid off.

Worth bearing in mind the design of those pipes might not be great.

[Visitor Q]

[Zimbo]

[Kickstart]

Hi

Personally I would say to use stainless. Sure it is not as strong but they are hardly highly stressed and the lack of corrosion is a massive bonus.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[craigs23]

I've covered most of the criteria mentioned when restoring the Blade - most was done on the cheap using sourced/second hand parts. Once cleaned, no one's been able to tell the difference.

For example, my Ohlins was bought off Ebay for £200, I then had it rebuilt/sprung and setup for my weight for a nadge over £100. (New Ohlins = £500ish)

Full Yoshi system, Ebay again, £200, plus £100 for a Dynojet Stage 1 kit. Dyno run/checkup to follow very soon. (System new = £750+)

C&Ss aren't too much, a nice set of Renthals is another £100 or so (new).