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Restarting a bike after a long lay-up..

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Kris
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Joined: 03 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 25 Apr 2006    Post subject: Restarting a bike after a long lay-up.. Reply with quote

Morning all.

I'm going to be attempting to start the Bandit after a six month lay-up. I realise I should have done a few things before I left her to the ravages of winter and rot but if I'm honest I'll admit that I did absolutely nothing to help my cause. Nada, nil. Mr. Green

Well that's not strictly true - I did replace the front fairing bracket and headlight assembly, although I doubt that will help her start.

So what I'm after is a list of things to look for on Friday when the inevitable happens and she refuses to play ball. Mind you, after the way she's been abused she has a right to be pissed off Razz

The battery died months ago so I've bought another which is ready to slot in. The old petrol is still in the tank so I guess I'll replace that and drain out the tank. Mind you the carbs are probably full of crap. Joy.

How should I go about trying to start her? - I figure an oil change would be a nice gesture even though she's done less than 2k on the oil in there. Worth it?

Bleugh help! Neutral
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phill.c
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Joined: 13 May 2004
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PostPosted: 11:59 - 25 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

first check battery (which you have a new one so that won't matter) change petrol- don't use whats in the tank, check oil.
wouldn't bother checking plugs unless it doesn't start.
phill
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map
Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 12:00 - 25 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

There will be purists on here who'll say strip everything and clean it.
However, having had bikes idle that isn't always required.

You're right about the petrol. You could drain the tank and the carbs.
There's likely to be some varishing in the carbs but I'd try first before stripping it down. One saving grace if you didn't drain the carbs beforehand is that if they've got diaphragms then they may not have cracked.

Replace petrol with fresh stuff. Then add some of the petrol additive. Silkolene do one, Pro FST, available at most bike shops (or the shop should stock an alternative).

As said, put in new battery and give the engine a go.

If you start it and if you have a centre/paddock stand put into 1st gear and make sure everything moves ok.

Before you ride anywhere drop the pads out of the brakes. Give the discs and pads a quick rub down with a very fine abrasive (wire wool) to remove rust. Make sure the caliphers have not seized as well (a common condition when bikes are left).

HTH Thumbs Up
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Kris
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 25 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the replies. Thumbs Up

map wrote:
You're right about the petrol. You could drain the tank and the carbs.


The small allen bolts on the underside of the carbs are the drain screws I believe, is it just a case of undoing them then retightening and filling the tank with fresh fuel?
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map
Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 13:08 - 25 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kris wrote:
...small allen bolts on the underside of the carbs are the drain screws I believe, is it just a case of undoing them then retightening and filling the tank with fresh fuel?

Without knowing your bike/carbs can't say for certain but sounds about right for the location. Best remove the tank to drain and then any remaining in the carbs/pipes via the carb drain. Bolt tank back on, make sure pipes/connectors ok and refill. Remember to prime the carbs (get fuel into them, this may be via fuel tap position) before starting.

If emptying the tank you might want to check/renew the fuel filter as you'll dislodge a bit of gunk that you want to keep out of the system.

HTH Thumbs Up
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kawakid
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Joined: 15 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 25 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck mate.

For future ref, I simply started my bike once a week and rode 10 miles, that kept it going, I didn't need to do anything else. (except clean the salt off after the ride).
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Rit
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 24 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 25 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Replace petrol with fresh stuff. Then add some of the petrol additive. Silkolene do one, Pro FST, available at most bike shops


Sorry to jump in. So does this stuff do what it actually says (unblock jets, clears slides etc) or would a manual carb cleanout be better for bikes that have been standing for longer?
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BFG
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 14 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 25 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

After the petrol change....

Something I've sworn by for years.
Take the plug caps off. Spin the motor for no more than two seconds with petrol on but no choke. Put the plug caps back on. (caps off so it doesn't fire)
Leave it for at least an hour (or even do it the day before).

Then it'll fire first time. Not really examined why it works, it just does.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 25 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be honest, I left the SV for 4 months without starting it, and all I did was charge the battery and start her up and go for a ride. Filled up with petrol and dropped in some carb cleaner.
It was fine, just took it easy for a couple of miles then rode normally.
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Kris
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Joined: 03 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 10:08 - 02 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the replies people.

Cool

You'll be pleased to know that after a new battery, fresh fuel and drained carbs she started (after a bump) and now runs just as she did before the lay-up. I didn't add any fuel additives in the end.
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