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Proposed ZXR250 paint scheme

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The Tot
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 08 May 2006    Post subject: Proposed ZXR250 paint scheme Reply with quote

Guys, i need your opinions on suggested paint scemes of my Ninja. The current one looks like a mish mash and i want to get some colour coordination - seeing that i've got black & sliver lid with silver and black leathers, would you think that this would be a suitable paint scheme?

I got it photoshopped from a bike off google as it had the design i wanted.

Also, suggestions on numberboards, would it be much easier to vinyl them on as opposed to painting them? My current number boards are non symmetrical and need some remedy.

There's probably tonnes of threads about how to prep and paint bodywork so this time, i'm goign to do it properly and prime everything and be patient about it - i want it to be a 1 metre marvel not a 3 metre minger!
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satans_BIG_helper
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 08 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I Love that paint scheme !! Very Happy

as for number boards vinyl looks more pro/realistic but painting will give as equally a good finish so long as your patient and prepared to go slow Cool
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tokarev
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 08 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I like that...looks good! Thumbs Up
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Method
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 08 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black looks sweet mate Thumbs Up

However - dispite your request, i find it hard not to laugh at the second picture Laughing

Better luck next time eh? Wink
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ram_doom
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 08 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Love it Thumbs Up very slick looking!
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Andy C
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 08 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

id vanyl them on as paining them could go wrong Thumbs Down do you have a pic of what it looks like now? the black and white looks really nice i think, very tastful
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The Tot
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PostPosted: 22:27 - 08 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeh, the red one is what it looks like now.

Now second question, spray gun or rattle cans? The uni bike club does have an air compressor and i have a gun, but i don't know how in the hell it works. What can achieve better effects.

I'm aiming for something like this.

2coats primer
2 coats top coat (gloss black)
2 coats lacquer

Can anybody estimate me a cost for all panels sprayed in terms of how much i'm going to spend painting it. Would polishing with autosol be a good idea between layers.

Cheers for your help.
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Gazdaman
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PostPosted: 11:55 - 09 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't autosol metal polish?

Sure you don't mean T cut?

Gaz
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quacker_boy
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 09 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gaz is right, Autosol’s used to polish metal.

Right I’m bored and I’ve got time to kill so I took the time to type out a little manual for you Titz.

Preparation: This the most key part in repainting a bike (NO S**T!) and will take up most of the time the bike’s off the road. I personally had a time frame to work in so could only get rid of the gloss layer and two layers of paint before I started my work. The best way to repaint the bike is to remove all the layers of paint back to bare fibreglass. If you don’t have time then just do what I did.

I used a variety of grit wet ‘n’ dry paper starting from 200 working all the way back to 1400. The best technique is to have a bowl of water handy and constantly dip the paper in the water every 5 seconds or so. This left the body work with a really nice smooth finish ready for painting.

Base coat: I hired out a compressor and bought myself a spray gun to give a nice smooth finish, don’t bother with cans they look utterly wank! The paint I used was called Penguard HighBuild (HB). I also purchased the Penguard Resin as well which you’ll need. A quick google search should bring up a place that’ll do it for you.

Anywho I applied two base coats of grey paint using a ratio of 4:1:1, this ratio is the paint to resin to thinners. The first coat used this ratio as a test and the second coat was more finely tuned by adding more thinners to the mixture and adjusting the gun. It’s important to note that after each layer of paint go over the parts with your two finest grit papers to allow a smooth base for the next coat.

Top coat: Right, now you’ve got both your base coats slapped on you can mask up the full area which is to be painted silver, leaving the area to be painted black without masking tape. Use the same ratio of paint like you used for the base coat of 4:1:1 and play around with it on the top coat. Again, don’t forget to sand down each layer with your two finest grit papers. The black coat will take about two days to complete and as you’ll see from the first coat the paint already has a gloss effect, if you want true bling then by all means stick on lacquer once the silver AND black paint has been applied.

Ok, so now you’ve got the black paint on where you want it to be and the masking tape has been covering up the area to be painted silver for two days. Be warned when you strip the masking tape off there’ll be a lot of sticky white s**t all over the area. Don’t panic, simply get some paint thinners on a clothe and wipe down the area and lightly sand it down again. Now, mask up the area that’s been painted black and move onto painting the silver. Use the same technique used for the black paint and enjoy! Two days later, stand back and enjoy your master piece!

Might as well do your wheels while you’re at it, that colour scheme coupled with black spokes and polished rims would look pukka…or maybe even red spokes and polished rims!

[RANT MODE]I can’t stress enough that you need to sand down each coat of paint after it’s dry with your two finest grit wet ‘n’ dry papers[/RANT MODE]

Hope I’ve helped you a bit mate, PM if you wanna know anything else.

Pics attached of my gear below
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Jack_Cheese
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 09 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you buy a compressor, make sure you match the output flow rate with the comsumption rate of the gun. It'll be in cubic feet/min or litres/min. There are conversion tables out there.

To be honest, i'd just use cans. One can of primer will get you two coats on a side pannel, so for the entire bike, you'd need about5 or 6 cans, assuming you buy halfords 500ml. Do not buy plastikote, the nozzles are utter shit! When sanding between coats, apply virtually no pressure, and do it wet! It's no fun if it's dry Wink

For masking, use 3m fine line tape, it'll give you a razor sharp edge. Use regular masking tape to backfill the masked area.

Don't forget to flat and rub down the lacquer after a week or two.

Jack
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The Tot
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PostPosted: 00:48 - 10 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been losing sleep and coursework concentration over this, but at the moment, my shopping list is as such

51 0.5Ltr Sf2 Cellulose Car Colour
gloss black 25348 £15.49 51
0.5Ltr Sf2 Cellulose Car Colour
gloss white 25348 £15.49 1457
Antibloom Thinner 1Ltr 24116 £4.55 1719
Cellulose EP21 Grey Primer 0.5Ltr 44578 ££4.19
Total: £39.72

I've seen the gun in use before and it's OK.

If i were to use rattle cans

It would be more like 5 x 6.25 = 30 quid for primer x 3 for the basecoat and laquer. That will mean that it's already close to 100 quid! I've used halfords paints before and the results aren't too bad.

Can anybody find anything wrong with my original plan to use cellulose paints? It's going to take me the whole weekend to do, but i cant wait for the results
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quacker_boy
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PostPosted: 03:25 - 10 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shit, cheers Jack for cleaning up my mess Laughing

Titz, go with the cellulose paint, i believe it's basically the same stuff as my Penguard HB stuff. Thumbs Up
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