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| killa |
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killa
Won't Shut Up
Joined: 18 Oct 2004
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 Posted: 09:11 - 18 May 2006  Post subject: Think bike, think.... |
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Cleaning...
I think i have a complex about it now, i was riding in the heavy rain last nigth and all i could think about was spending a few hours cleaning the thing.
Does anyone have a decent link to a site showing you how to clean properly?
Oh and also while i'm at it i have a paddock stand for the front and back of my bike, i have no idea how to put them on! What can i do with the bike on the paddock stand as well.
Thanks guys...
Killa
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Bike:- Yamaha TRX850 | Killas Biking History | Killas Gaming History | Killas autmotive history |
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| VTR SP1 |
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VTR SP1
Brolly Dolly
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| frogmella |
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frogmella
Nitrous Nuisance
Joined: 12 Mar 2006
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Posted: 09:45 - 18 May 2006  Post subject: |
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I hate to admit it but I don't know how to wash my bike properly at all 
Can I just get some soapy water, sponge everything and rinse off with a low powered hose? Do i leave it to dry or do i spray and WD40 or such like on anything? I know not to get those sprays on yer brakes or tires.
Killa, I just got a paddock stand for my bike, they're really easy to use even on your own. Well worth getting one. My version uses cups, not got an option for bobbins on my bike.
Last edited by frogmella on 09:47 - 18 May 2006; edited 1 time in total |
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killa
Won't Shut Up
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| frogmella |
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frogmella
Nitrous Nuisance
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| matt89 |
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matt89
Crazy Courier
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| 0ddball |
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0ddball
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| Posted: 10:04 - 18 May 2006 Post subject: |
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Also, does anyone know a site telling me how to breath properly. 
Jeez dude, just find a dirty bit, then wash and polish it 'till it's clean. Rocket science it aint. |
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| killa |
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killa
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Posted: 10:12 - 18 May 2006  Post subject: |
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No, SP-1 mate  #
I know cleaning is getting dirt off, but products including the cloths, liquids and brushes, possible links to kits.
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frogmella
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| craigs23 |
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craigs23
Mr Muscle
Joined: 08 Jun 2005
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Posted: 10:39 - 18 May 2006  Post subject: Re: Think bike, think.... |
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| matt89 wrote: | | killa wrote: | Cleaning...
Does anyone have a decent link to a site showing you how to clean properly?
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Yeh its called craigs23 
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lol, my reputation seems to proceed me....
I wrote this for another site, should cover the basics...
| Quote: | Cleaning my bike is kind of like a maintenance routine - some think I'm quite obsessive when it comes to keeping the grime off, but I look at it as more an appreciation for the bike. Cleaning a bike is never complete; even if, to the 'untrained eye' no work appears to need doing. There will always be something that requires attention. After a 'general clean' I'll clean/polish some other area that I hadn't got round to yet (for example; if I had been using the bike during the week; giving it a clean and it had remained cleani up to the weekend, there would still be some areas that I hadn't got round to doing). It does take some time, and a bit of elbow grease, but that's part of the owner satisfaction that I get out of owning a bike. I do not do this for other people's appreciation or attention for my bikes; I simply enjoy doing it, almost as much as riding (and so that I can sleep at night). Plus, a well sorted, clean, good working order bike will easily add a couple of hundred (or more in my case) to a bike.
First step I'd say is to get it the bike up to a decent standard, and try and keep it there. I use my bike all the time, so it's constantly getting dirty from the grime off the roads. If it's a wet week, the bike will be rinsed after it's used for the day, once it's cooled down, and before it's put away for the night. I usually spend a hungover Saturday morning doing a fairing-off clean if the weather's been particually bad. Once a bike is at a certain stage of cleanliness, so to speak, it's much easier to clean - hence why bikes look clean most of the time. If you can get a bike up to that kind of standard, the everyday dirt and grime just rinses off.
Now to the nitty gritty, can't go into too much detail (might get carried away y'see), as I approach each component differently depending on its condition.
Bodywork
Use a decent soapy wash when you wash the bike, I use a turtlewax one that has polishing wax within it. Taking the fairing off is sometimes easier at this stage (to clean the insides of them if anything else). Lather with the soap, then rinse off, dry with a shammy leather to get rid of any water stains (they're a witch to polish out thereafter). Any tiny marks can be polished out if you're very careful - use either Brasso or Belgom Alu (and use, very, very lightly). This will allow you to polish out imperfections (the Alu will also leave a layer of Wax protection).
Once completely dry, get a decent multi-coloured (or standard?) high gloss wax - I'd recommend a stage 2 Meguairs polish, then apply with a wax-on-wax-off technique. For a really good shine, once waxed, use a bit of Mr Sheene and applied with a micro-fibre - gives a very smooth, very fine glossy finish - showroom condition easily; even with 15 year old paint. If the budget allows, invest in some stage 3 Meguairs (Corodura Wax or something?) Gives an even better shine/level of protection than Mr Sheene.
For areas of large single colour (such as wheels), get a Turtlewax Coloured Wax (the ones that sometimes come with a chipstick). Gives a good level shine/finish, quite cheap as well. I use a black (similar to back-to-black) for my wheels - very deep, almost black-chrome shine. Be careful if you want to use spray on polish here (or Mr. Sheene) - keep away from your tyres!
Remember to pay almost as much attention to the fairings insides as the outsides and use the same techniques above. People won't always notice if your fairing internals require a clean, but they will definately notice if your engine bay is gleaming!
Metalwork
Depending on the finish really. I've recently wet'n'dried some areas of my bike to get a mirror finish - very intensive though, and doesn't leave much skin on your fingers. Though I found I got a better, more controlled finish than with polishing mops.
The basics for coated metal surfaces involve degreasing (Paraffin, Muck-Off, Autoglym Aerosol Degreaser, WD40.....) then washing the surface. May need to repeat to make sure you get in all the knooks and crannies. Agitate with a paint/tooth brush (or cotton bud) if necessary. A bit of Mr. Sheene over the top works okay (but I found it doesn't react to nicely when heated up). Glass cleaner will work well to remove residue. Only use Autosol/Brasso very lightly on coated surfaces.
For uncoated surfaces (polished frame, rearsets, exhaust hangers, levers, etc) Once dry, polish firstly with Autosol - keep buffing until the marks eventually rub out (it actually skims out imperfections in the metal, which is mixed with the dirt - that's what you see on your cloth). A lot of people add a bit, rub in until it goes dark grey and then immediately buff away. Don't do this. When the surface goes dark grey - keep buffing with the dirtying cloth until the shine comes through from under. Then buff away with a cleaner cloth. For a better, finer finish, use a bit of Brasso in the same way. Get a clean(er) cloth and polish again with no polish on the cloth - this gets rid of any excess. Repeat for Belgom Alu for even more bling - use a wax-on-wax-off technique.
For mirror finish you may want to invest in some polishing mops.(WARNING! THIS IS VERY PERMENANT AND MAY COMPROMISE THE VALUE OF YOUR BIKE (some see polished frames and what not as disguising crash damage) I did and they are currently sitting unused in my garage - I didn't like the lack of control they didn't give. So I use wet'n'dry. The original finish depends entirely on what grade to start with. Original finish - 240 grit; quite a bit of hard work at this stage, but it gets easier (relatively) when moving up the grades. Remove all surrounding bodywork/obstructions, fill a bucket of water, apply a tiny amount of washing up liquid, tear a hand sized patch of wet'n'dry up and then sand away like you would paintwork. Keep the surface saturated.
For painted/laquered surfaces you may want to try Nitro Morsing first. I have little experience with this stuff, but heard it works pretty well (won't remove the finish of a frame though). Anyway, gradually move up the grit levels - the key is to be patient - it will take a while. Miss a spot and leave a deep(ish) scratch in your metal work and it will show in the levels thereafter, so be careful not to just hack away in the first stages. Once you've moved up the 240-500-800-1000-1200-1500 grit stages and most sratches have been polished away (along with the original finish) dry thoroughly and then apply some Autosol to a cloth. Use the same technique as described for metal polishing above.
General Degreasing
A good degreaser is essential - especially for cleaning around the swing arm - taking the rear wheel out helps as well. Again, Autoglym's aerosol degreaser works pretty well; Parrafin even better - agitate with an old paint brush for real stubborn stuff. Rinse away with cold water. This is also good for cleaning your brake callipers, brake dust residue, etc - but keep away from pads/chain. WD40 works well; but keep away from rubber components and brake assemberlies.
Autoglym's Motorcycle Cleaner is very handy as well and can be used on all parts of the bike. I've found if it's been a wet week, a coating of this, then left for 10 mins or so, then washed off (before washing the bike proper) gets rid of 70% of the muck. It's especially good for finishing off the cleanliness of your frame and swing arm as well and is why some people keep thinking that I've had my swing arm coated. Even spraying some onto a cloth and then rubbing into areas requiring cleaning gives a good finish.
Remember to relube any components where necessary.
Chains
There are a few techniques; some people just rely on their Scotoiler to do all the work. That's not good enough for me. Liberally apply a degreaser - Parrafin again - to your chain. You want to absolutely drench the thing in the stuff so all the muck, grit, road kill, etc just rinses out (make sure you cover the floor on which you're working, this stuff will get everywhere). Keep rotating the chain to work around all areas - do the hub, the inside of the front sprocket cover (check the speedo cable whilst you're at it) - Everywhere. Once degreased, whipe off with a rag until dry, pay attention to cleaning the inside and outside of the chain for extra bling. Then apply a good coating of Chainsaw Lubricant (I've found this much better than oil and spray chain waxes (which go into a sticky, gungey (and sometimes green!) mess after a couple of weeks of use), rotating the wheel and making sure you get in all the o-rings, links and what not. Wipe away any excess. Hey presto! Clean chain.
That's the major areas - sorry if it's a bit long winded. One thing I've found is that the cleaner a bike is, the more scruitiny it gets - plus no one believes that it's your everyday, all weather transport. Once the big areas are clean and kept clean, then you can work around to the detailing (this is where I'm at at the moment, and hence why I'm always finding new areas that need work). Same theories apply, but it's easier to spend a weekend or so doing each area. For example, my rearsets were done a couple of weeks ago - taken off the bike, disassembled, cleaned, polished and then reassembled - it's really the only way to get all the muck off - some nooks and crannies are just unreachable when the parts are all together.
Other areas that just won't clean up - rub down and respray to make them look like new.
Another tip - don't try and attempt to restore an entire bike in a weekend. If you plan on keeping the bike for a period of time, do it in stages. Get the bike to a general level of clean and then think "I'm going to be hungover and homebound on Saturday 11am - 3pm - good time for a fairing off clean me'thinks...." (and the like). It's also a good mode of practice if you're modifying a bike, as said parts will have to be removed anyway - may be an idea to couple the installation of a new exhaust system with an engine bay overhaul, for example.
And don't worry about being brandished an obsessive, I think in many parts, I've got that area fully covered.
If there's any other more specific area that you're having trouble with, drop me an email and I'll see if I can help. |
Check out your local Halfrauds store for many of the products mentioned above, they should be able to cover the basics (as well as Autoglym and Meguairs products). |
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Bendy
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killa
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Jamie.
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| steveh |
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steveh
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| Posted: 11:05 - 18 May 2006 Post subject: |
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Soap, water, a cloth, a brush then autosol and wax for the paintwork.
sometimes some wire wool to kill those tiny bits of rust before they get worse.
Oh and a big bucket of common sence, it wont disolve, clean it.
Steve.
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Current : 06 Zx10r, 07 Wr450f SM, 74 850 norton commando, 63 bsa b40, 1962 Triton 650, 67 Triumph Tr6r, 1955 Triton 750, 1978 TY250E. |
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| killa |
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killa
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| Posted: 11:11 - 18 May 2006 Post subject: |
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I know that the bike will be clean(er) after some hard work with water and a brush you divvy’s.
I wanted to hear some of your personal ways of cleaning you machine, the first couple of times it took me over 2hrs to clean the VFR properly, the wheels were really hard because of the spokes.
After some alterations on the routine I got it down to about an hour and 40 mins.
I have bought some ACF50 for after cleaning and after rain to protect down pipes etc.
I have a nice chamois, a bucket but no brushes yet, I’m a bit worried they’d scratch the paint.
I always think of cleaning like the mechanics, if you have the right tools, the job gets done faster and to a higher quality.
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Keen
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0ddball
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killa
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| Dark |
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Dark
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| Posted: 11:32 - 18 May 2006 Post subject: |
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Thats a great post Craig, theres a few things there i've not heard of before that i'll give a go, the chainsaw lubricant for one. Thanks man 
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My Bikes in order:- Yamaha RXS100 / Suzuki X7 250 / Yamaha RD350LC / Kawasaki
KR1S 250 / Kawasaki ZXR750 H2 / Honda C50 / Kawasaki ZX7R P5 / Kawasaki ZX10R / Suzuki GSXR 400 / Honda CBR1100 Blackbird & Yamaha FZR 600 |
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0ddball
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VTR SP1
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| Andy C |
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Andy C
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| Posted: 23:27 - 18 May 2006 Post subject: |
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Ste
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jok
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Posted: 00:50 - 19 May 2006  Post subject: |
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Go from top to bottom (it's tempting to polish the exhaust first as it's the most obvious shiny thing, but it gets crapped on as soon you clean the tail) and work from not very dirty to very dirty.
I use a non-stick sponge to avoid scratches and (liberally) apply Auto Glym Bike Cleaner to any greasy bits (the back wheel and the chain cover in particular); it works a treat, even if the sponge needs to be chucked by the end.
The body work needs fairly little attention but gets the following treatmnt: Auto Glym to wash of any crud that collected on the tank and other plastic bits, then rinsed off thoroughly and dried with a "super absorbent" rug and a faux-chamois. It then gets polished.
For polish, I use "Holts Bike Polish". It doesn't last very long, but since I clean it every weekend it's not too much of a problem. Dials and mirrors get a coating of MrSheen instead as it's easier to apply, cheaper and seems to work better for them. Everything else (clutch and brake lever etc.) get a nice coat of WD40.
I use two dusting cloths for the actual polishing: one for a "pre-polish" to spread the stuff, then another to buff to a shine. They are not ideal, though: something lint-free would work much better.
The chain gets scrubbed with a WD40-soaked rug, then lightly re-lubed, re-scrubbed and finally thoroughly re-lubed (Castrol Chain Wax each time -- it seems to cause less mess than Holt's chain lube and it's the only alternative I found so far). I daren't go near the thing with paraffin as it's an O-ring chain and I haven't found an actual chain cleaner, yet.
On the order of things, I generally go:
* Lights, dials, tank, seat and rear
* Front bits and bobs and front wheel
* Swingarm an misc bits in that area (pillion moutings etc.)
* Rear wheel
* Chain cover
Things this is missing:
* I give the engine a general once-over, but I still haven't found a decent way to clean the cooling fins  .
* Polishing metal bits: Brasso et al scare me (irrationally) because they're highly abrasive.
As with most things, though, establishing a routine helps a lot. The basics take no more than ~10 minutes for me (granted, there are no fairings to remove or similar) and it shouldn't take much more than that. Even a very thorough cleaning shouldn't take more than an hour.
The end result is a clean and sparkly looking bike that'll stay reasonable for about a week. If you're addicted to shine, you'd have to re-polish mid-week somtime.
Anyway, just my 
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| Silver |
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Silver
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| Posted: 01:06 - 19 May 2006 Post subject: |
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Am I the only one who fills a bucket with hot, soapy water and spends 10 minutes throwing it librally around the bike (whilst occasionally swearing about bugs and scratching them off with a finger nail)? You then retire to the house for a cup of tea safe in the knowledge that since you can't see the hidden dirt, it can't exist... 
Christ, if I want to go hardcore clean I've even go and refill the bucket and give it two goes!  |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 20 years, 143 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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