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Fitting New Clutch Plates + Springs Q!

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RS125_Tecky
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PostPosted: 02:41 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Fitting New Clutch Plates + Springs Q! Reply with quote

Fitting some new EBC clutch plates and springs to my 2001 zx6r this weekend.

I've heard you have to soak the plates in oil over night, is this correct?

Also what oil do you use, new / used?

I have some new 4t engine oil, will this be ok to soak the plates in overnight?

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Rookie
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PostPosted: 02:49 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would have thought new oil, get them as saturated as possible, but you don't want any bits or anything. Soak them for a good 12 hours. Make sure you check the oil level once it's all sorted, too.
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RS125_Tecky
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PostPosted: 05:03 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rookie wrote:
I would have thought new oil, get them as saturated as possible, but you don't want any bits or anything. Soak them for a good 12 hours. Make sure you check the oil level once it's all sorted, too.


I have to drain the engine oil in order to change the plates, I could lean the bike over but decided to drain the oil and put fresh in.

Can anyone confirm if new 4t engine oil will be ok to use?
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Kram
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

i soaked my plates in 4t oil for about 6-7 hours while i was prepping bike/other things, and never had a problem.

Just make sure you use a torque wrench on the pressure plate bolts (as the all have to be even - at about 6Nm or something like that:s)
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Barry_M2
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PostPosted: 10:26 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

You dont need to soak them over night, or even for a few hours or minutes.

Just pour some new oil into a shallow tray, and coat each plate and slide onto the basket. Its just to get the plates lubed up for when you first start the engine with a new clutch in.

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RS125_Tecky
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

So just smear some of the 4t oil over them prior to fitting?

I dont have a torque wrench, where could I get one from and roughly how much.

Cheers.
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Kram
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'm not sure where u can get one which will only do such small tension.

But i did mine, by slowly undoing it, and seeing how much pressure it took, then duplicated this on doing the bolts up again.
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Barry_M2
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PostPosted: 11:57 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

RS125_Tecky wrote:
So just smear some of the 4t oil over them prior to fitting?

I dont have a torque wrench, where could I get one from and roughly how much.

Cheers.


Thats it, thats all you need to do, just dip them and let the excess oil run off.
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RS125_Tecky
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PostPosted: 12:29 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers for clearing it up?

Now I just need a torque wrench before weekend, where from? Shocked
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JGY6000
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PostPosted: 12:43 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

halfords £50 a
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RS125_Tecky
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PostPosted: 12:51 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jose wrote:
halfords £50 a


Surprised
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NSR Mick
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jose wrote:
halfords £50 a


Dont be silly

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/search.asp?q=cht204
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RS125_Tecky
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

gsxrmick wrote:
Jose wrote:
halfords £50 a


Dont be silly

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/search.asp?q=cht204


Top Price, now wheres machine mart Embarassed
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Barry_M2
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PostPosted: 13:01 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/store.asp
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

it doesnt have NM on it, and is closer to 25 delivered.

Plus if im torqing i want to know damn sure its a good wrench.

You can snap bolts on a good one before the click, let alone bargain ones.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Torque wrenchg Confused I fail to see what difference it can possibly make to your clutch if the bolt torques aren't exactly even. Just make sure they aren't going to come undone. The preload on the springs is set by the length of the 'tubes' the bolts screw down into. Altering how tight the bolt is torqued down will affect the length of these tubes not a jot.

Obviously, a torque wrench is handy if you want to make sure you are 'tight enough but not too tight' in terms of either bolts coming undone or shearing.

I stand ready to be corrected on this.

On another point, I thought you had to soak the plates for a while because the friction material is (usually) made of cork which needs to soak up a certain amount of oil.

Again, I stand ready to be corrected.

Putting my money where my mouth is. I'm fitting new plates and springs to my KLE tomorrow. The plates are already in soaking and I have no intention of using a torque wrench.
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Barry_M2
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
The plates are already in soaking.....


Why? Confused
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Kram
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

i would have thought that you would need to use a torque wrench on the pressure plate screws, so that they are all even, so the pressure plate moves evenly on and off the clutch plates, thus evenly wearing the clutch, and making it smoother.

possibly:S
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Barry_MC21 wrote:

Why? Confused


So the totally dried out cork friction material that has been baked on in an oven can absorb some oil bofore I fit them. And because it says to "soak the plates in the manufacturers recommended transmission oil before fitting" on the box they came in.



Quote:
i would have thought that you would need to use a torque wrench on the pressure plate screws, so that they are all even, so the pressure plate moves evenly on and off the clutch plates, thus evenly wearing the clutch, and making it smoother.


As I recall from last time I assembled a clutch, the pressure plate is firmly bolted to the inner basket. Altering the torque of the bolts does not alter the degree of compression of the springs, that is fixed by the distance the pressure plate 'stands off' from the inner basket which is cast in metal. To alter the compression on the springs you would either need to put shims under the springs or use longer/stronger springs in the first place.

Of course, the clutch on the bike in question may be designed differently to the ones I've done?

Not trying to start an argument or anything, just querying the necessity of the guy going out and buying an expensive tool which he may not need just to do this job. I've had clutches in and out of a few different bikes and never used a torque wrench with no obvious ill effects (in fact, the one I'm replacing tomorrow has been stripped twice before by me. It needs new plates now because it has done 60k miles and they are totally worn out).

The bolts don't need to be all that tight. To me, 'Nipping them up' with a 1/4" drive socket set is perfectly sufficient.
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Barry_M2
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PostPosted: 15:38 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
So the totally dried out cork friction material that has been baked on in an oven can absorb some oil bofore I fit them. And because it says to "soak the plates in the manufacturers recommended transmission oil before fitting" on the box they came in.


When it say's soak, it doesn't mean marinade them for 6 hours. It means just give them a quick dip. To soak something doesn't mean leaving it for a long period, they just want you to make sure you dont fit it dry, ie: its need a coating of engine oil on it, and make sure you cover all of it. In other words soak.

The cork isn't going to absorb any of the oil, if it did, it wouldn't last very long would it! Thumbs Up
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0ddball
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Torque wrenchg Confused I fail to see what difference it can possibly make to your clutch if the bolt torques aren't exactly even. Just make sure they aren't going to come undone. The preload on the springs is set by the length of the 'tubes' the bolts screw down into. Altering how tight the bolt is torqued down will affect the length of these tubes not a jot.

Obviously, a torque wrench is handy if you want to make sure you are 'tight enough but not too tight' in terms of either bolts coming undone or shearing.

I stand ready to be corrected on this.



Sounds fair enough to me. Just tighten them to the end of their thread then nip them up lightly. I did that despite having a torque wrench to hand.

Not sure on the soaking thing. I just dipped but didn't soak and it was fine. But there's no harm in being over cautious.
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JGY6000
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=83547
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RS125_Tecky
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 18 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


I stand ready to be corrected on this.

On another point, I thought you had to soak the plates for a while because the friction material is (usually) made of cork which needs to soak up a certain amount of oil.

Again, I stand ready to be corrected.



Cheers for that SW, the plates im using aint cork, there kevlar...
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