Coolant into cylinder?

[Thom]

This to me sounds very strange... i mean, i didnt even think it was possible unless you poured it in directly!

Anyway i recently replaced the cylinder head gasket, replaced the coolant and set the carb to 2.5turns on the pilot screw and the idle screw 3.5turns out.

In theory this should be a very good setting to atleast test the bike runs and it does, the bike runs for the whole of 20seconds if i keep revving it gently and slowly.

Now i have had the oil tube off the carb, would this need bleeding to allow oil to pass through?

If not i think my problem could be coolant getting into the engine, i noticed a bit of coolant around my exhaust port...

How likely is it this has happened and is the reason for the stalling?

How, when refitting the gasket, do i make sure this doesnt happen again?

[MaybeGuy]

make sure all mating surfaces are clean, and that your head or cylinder block is not warped.

get an engineers square and some feeler gauges.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[Thom]

cool, what am i doing with the feeler guages though? obviously im checking the square is level but the feeler guages?

[MaybeGuy]

you put the square across the surface and try and slide feeler gauges underneath.

if you can fit more than a 0.025 gauge under it, chances are its a bit warped.

has the bike ever run without coolant or overheated?

why did the gasket need changing?
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[Phil_G]

as above but also make sure when you replace the gasket that you torque the head down correctly (correct lb/ft rating and correct sequence) and follow any guidelines with regards to replacing nuts/bolts etc.
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1997 Kawasaki ER 500 A1:- Once again, Its merely crap

[MaybeGuy]

should be something like this...

https://aycu08.webshots.com/image/50527/2000823971657777633_rs.jpg

tighten them down in this order, but tighten them gently at first in order...

do the sequence about 4-5 times gradually tightening them all.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[Finglonga]

. . . . . Then re-check the torque after a few hundred miles.
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Andy Sez....
F.Y.Y.F.F.

[Thom]

right everything was ok i had, 2 loose nuts

But now that everythings working again and ive reset the carb the bikes running rather... fast!

I Replaced both the choke and throttle cables, the oil pump is adjusted so as to make the mix just a little rich.

Now when i start the bike up the revs sit at about 2k, but if i open the throttle up it bogs down then takes off upto 4-5k where it sits, even after releasing the grip the revs sit here, what could my problem be?

To drop the revs i have to forcefully twist the throttle back, its almost as if its sticking or theres slack in the cable, but i assure you theres not!

[MaybeGuy]

[Thom]

It's a honda nsr 125 from 1990, even though the engine is from a 99 foxeye, it was running fine until i took the carb out and cleaned it, adjusted the oil pump to be a little less rich, cleaned the spark plug up and changed the choke and throttle cables.

It's strange it's almost as if there is too much fuel suddenly being dumped into the engine.

On the throttle note, the carb doesnt stick and slides smoothly all the way through, so too does the oil pump, so in theory, this narrows it down to the actual throttle sticking somewhere, or the cable being too tight from throttle to carb/oil pump?

I just dont understand how i can be flooding the engine when before the carb was out i could throw the throttle all the way round without it bogging down.

The bike was cold but this wouldnt create the sticking revs problem...

[MaybeGuy]

you sure the choke is fully off?
throttle adjuster not too tight?
idle screw?
oil pump set properly?
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[Thom]

oh by the way, i took the cylinder head off to chek the barrell for scoring and figured id replace the gasket while i was on as the other one was slightly bent and the paint was all flaky, just didnt look great!

I've also changed the engine oil and coolant, with the coolant still needing bleeding properly but due to the revving problem i cant!

[Thom]

[MaybeGuy]

[Thom]

It's about 1mm over, the oil pump i mean, so no it's not kicking out much smoke

Im not entirely sure how much free play is in the throttle but theres not 1cm i dont think, but this would suggest when idling the cable should be a little slack?

And good about the bleeding of the oil pump, the only one i removed was the carbs pipe.

I might add all the advice is very much appreciated as id like this thing to go for sale shortly!

KArma your way

[MaybeGuy]

1mm over as in the oil pump piston moves an extra 1mm??

thats quite a substantial amount.
i assume you have the haynes manual... i suggest you set it up to what it says in there. tinkering with 2 strokes unless youve changed something from stock can cause problems.
i was under the impression that oil pumps were set up using feeler gauges.

you dont have an aftermarket air filter on it by any chance do you?
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[Thom]

oh no sorry i should have explained the oil pump works on the throttle, the throttle cable splits into two of which one pulls the oil pump drum and increasies the opil feed and the other goes to the carb for the throttle slide.

1mm over on the oil pump is a tiny amount, previously it was about 5mm over which caused alot of plug fouling.

no air filter on it but the bike has been derestricted. the hetting has been changed too to allow for this, but again by the previous owner, i ahvent changed anything massive like the jets...

Im gonna have a look at the choke adjustment on the carb and slacken it off all the way, see what this does, ill also slacken the throttle fully and tighten it up via the oil pump again to set it correctly but leave enough slack so as to have .5cm on the throttle.

for tomorrow though

[MaybeGuy]

its the same type of pump on my girlfriends RXS100 then...
its adjusted using feeler gauges, but opens and closes with the throttle.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[Thom]

I can't see any need for feeler guages, basically you have two nuts you adjust up or down until the mark on the pump drum is aligned with a protrusion.

[Thom]

I can't see any need for feeler guages, basically you have two nuts you adjust up or down until the mark on the pump drum is aligned with a protrusion.

[MaybeGuy]