battery issues

[rockers]

hi guys got a little well have allways had this problem, i brought a new battery when i my bike about two years ago, and its never seems to be holding its charge to start with after about 2-3 months it then went to having to use the kick start, the charging part of the bike must be using as after ridding the bike for abit it will work the electric start, anyone know whats wrong could it need a new battery or am i not using the bike long enuff at a time to get the battery charged up enuff- even tho i use the kick start.
i problem a mile in the morning and couple in the evening getting home and getting about, week ends im usally out and about for 15min a time on the bike. im stuck do i buy a new battery is there a way or seeing if the battery is any good or not, its a 12v battery

[rotax81]

sometimes a bike just needs a good run to sort it out. having lights on al the time doesnt help but i dont advise against it.
get one of them optimate chargers.
batteries start degrading at around 3 years in most cases so looked after i would have thought 2 would be ok still.
it should put out over 12v and around 14v when charging (bike running over 5,000rpm)
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ZX636C6F road. ZX636C1H track. ZX7R redundant. ZX0.5R minimoto as ornament.
Audi A4 Avant 1.9TDi and VW Transporter 2.5TDi 888 Special (no mot and tax lol)

[stinkwheel]

What make and model of bike is it?

Do you have access to a multimeter?

Are you aware that your computer keyboard is fitted with a shift key, the use of which which makes your posts much easier to read by the people who can help you?
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[rockers]

i do have access to a multimeter yes
its kymco styker 125

shift ? put the title in capitals ? classed as shouting ?

[alun111]

You're not using your bike an incredible amount really. It could be that your charging circuit isn't working correctly though, although you haven't exactly given it enough time to charge the battery. Bikes will usually start off the button after a run as the engine is hot.

You're best buying or using a multimeter (maplins, aldi) and seeing what charge is in the battery when the bike's standing and the ignition off. If it's above 12v then start the bike and see what the meter reads then, it should be about 13/13.5. When you rev the bike it should go no higher than about 15v. Let us know the results.
____________________
Summer: '00 Honda CB600F Hornet
Winter: '93 Suzuki GSF 400 Bandit VP Variable Valve
Past Bikes: Lifan LF100-5 Lifan LF125-A Honda C70

[stinkwheel]

What alun111 said. Check the resting voltage then check it with the engine running. Should be no less than 12v at rest and should rise to around 14v when running.

Might even be worth checking the voltage after a run (a couple of minutes after you switch off) and making sure it doesn't drop overnight. I've had them do that when a cell has been duff and they slowly discharge themselves.

All that said, rockers porobably has it right in that it isn't running for long enough to put the charge back into the battery before you reach your destination.

The only real solution to this is to take it on a longer run every so often or to hook it up to a trickle charger (such as an optimate) when it's parked.

Oh, check the battery terminals are done up tight and free from corrosion. Couple of people on here have had odd charging/starter problems related to a bad connection.

By the capitals I was meaning I find this:

[Finglonga]

[AJ]

could be a duff battery but bikes dont charge battery's like a car's allternator does. It only maintains the charge. Test battery by putting meter across battery without any ignition on. Check voltage, then put ignition on and check voltage again if it is really low then get a new battery.

As an example my old battery read 12v with ignition off. But as soon as the ignition went on it droped down to 1.5v not even enough to light up the ignition lights.

[rockers]

Ok first of all guys I am english, just im not all that great on the witting side of it.

So i checked the battery with a multimeter, with the engine off it reads 11.45v.
checked again with the engine on it reads 12.98 with little revs it goes up to 13.34 ish.

So which is it battery or bike or neither ?

Rocky

[alun111]

[rockers]

Ok i have a draper 12v charger this one
https://www.avenue35.co.uk/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=17043

Would this work or do i need a bike specific charger ?
Do you have any idea how long it could take to charge, so i could take battery out and leave over night or somthing.

I will be riding it throughout the winter have no other means of transport.

[alun111]

You don't need to take the battery out to charge it, just leave it on.

I'm not too sure about that battery charger. 4A constant current is deemed the maximum really. This one charges up to 6A.

If you've got the money, I'd just buy a proper bike one. If you used that one on a regular basis, it will end up cooking your battery. Bike chargers usually charge at around 1.5amps.

Something like this would be ideal. Although my mate bought me a similar charger from a bike shop last christmas for about £25 also.

Batteries hold about 12.8v maximum, so i'd say it might take around 4-6 hours at the most to charge your particular battery from the charge state it's in.
____________________
Summer: '00 Honda CB600F Hornet
Winter: '93 Suzuki GSF 400 Bandit VP Variable Valve
Past Bikes: Lifan LF100-5 Lifan LF125-A Honda C70