Feeler gauges - checking valve clearances

[Swim41]

Currently checking the valve clearances on my Divvy 600. Two questions:

Is it OK to combine two thicknesses of feeler gauge, for example an 0.15mm and a 0.06mm to get a 0.21mm. Can I trust the result?

Second query: How much drag should I be looking for when withdrawing the gauge, is it just the barest noticable resistance?

thanks

Ben
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Yamaha XJ600N

[iooi]

Yes using 2 to make up the correct tollerance is fine.


Barest noticable resistance, sound about right.
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Just because my bike was A DIVVY, does not mean i am......

[MaybeGuy]

its ok to combine feeler gauges. they do it with slip gauges which are the same sort of thing.

not sure why you'd need to though, i thought the clearances were like 0.25mm?

you should feel a little resistance when its right, ie: doesnt just slot in.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[Blue_SV650S]

As said by others, no problem combining!

As for resistance, is the divvy bucket and shim or tappets?

it's kinda summin you just get a feel for, but what I tend to do with tappets is select one off the smallest setting i.e. if the manual says 0.19-0.21, I'd select a 0.20. I'd then put the feeler into the tappet gap, I'd then do up the tappet adjuster until I can't pull the gauge out. Then whilst pulling on the gauge, unscrew the adjuster until the gauge slips out. I'd then put the gauge back in and lock the adjuster off. I'd then check the gauge still comes out (if not it has tightened slightly in the doing up).

I'd then try slipping in a 0.19 and seeing how easily that slides in, I'd then try and slide in a 0.21, if I can slide in a 0.21, then I'd do it up slightly until I can't get the 0.21 in, the 0.2 slides in ok, but a but sticky the 0.19 slides in with only a bit of resistance. By doing it this way you KNOW you don't have them too tight or too loose and don't really NEED to have a feel for the resistance required

NOTE: With tappets the gaps will open over time, with shims they close. So I'd set tappets on the minimum setting, shims on the largest!
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The purpose of life is to fight maturity.

[Rockhopper]

Get a telephone directory, slide the feeler gauge into the pages, thats what it should feel like when the clearance is correct.

[iooi]

[Blue_SV650S]

[Swim41]

Thanks for the help chaps - I though the phone book thing was a great tip. I've checked the clearances, then asked a mate to check them just to be sure, got virtually identical results.

Next it's out with the shims, and a play around with Geri's rather ace Shim Calculator.
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Yamaha XJ600N

[StevRS]

Agree with all the above, but make sure the bike's cold when you check them.

Ideally, don't run it for a day before checking valve clearances or you might get duff readings.
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MV Agusta Brutale 800 RR, Unfinished 1978 XS250

[Flash Gordon]

Really great topic!!

Some really good advice there


Going off to check mine now

[Thom]

by the way, rattley shims on a divvy are normal.
just incase you were checking for that reason.

I chanegd my shims to cure the rattling and simply made it worse by bringing them all intoo spec
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Current Bike: 1996 Yamaha TRX850 (The Japanese-Ducati One).
Previous Bikes: 1990 Honda NSR125 'Rothmans' (The smoking one), 1990 Suzuki GS500e 'Caf? fighter' (The loud one), 1987 Kawasaki GPX400r (The quick one), 1997 XJ600s Diversion (The reliable one), 2000 Kawasaki ER-5 (The spontaneously combustive one)

[Swim41]