Rusted bolt

[BelleBot]

I need some advice on how to remove a bolt that has rusted stuck It's from one of the old indicators on my bike, which I'm in the process of replacing as the old ones were broken. However I can't get this one bolt out as it's rusted stuck, and the nut is on too tight to be able to get a hacksaw or bolt cutter at it. I've tried soaking it in wd-40, acf-50 and 3 in 1 oil in an attempt to loosen it up, but it just won't budge. Hammers and brute force haven't helped either.

I would try a blow torch, but that would just melt the surrounding plastic, which can't be removed until the bolt is gone.

Anything else I can try?
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Current Bike: 2004 SV650S
Old Bike: 1989 Honda CB-1 - crashed

[everyreasonto]

https://www.screwfix.com/prods/18643/Drill-Bits/Specialist-Drill-Bits/Screw-Extractor#BVRRWidgetID

Boom

[Mudskipper]

Is it a chewed-up phillips head? You could try hammering a torx bit into it (I got a £1.50 set from a hardware shop) and see if that will turn it. I've done that with mashed-up master cylinder bolts before.

I would also spray lots of loctite freeze & release all over it first.
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CBR125|||GSXR400|||CBR400|||CBR400|||CB250RS|||GSXR750|||CB250RS
"You're clumsy, you eat too much and you behave like a 12 year old boy. But you know what? Every once in a while, you find a thumb."

[DrDonnyBrago]

You could try a nut splitter if you can get one in it to crack the nut off:

https://www.mptools.co.uk/products.asp?partno=PC70


If that doesnt work then a proper penetrating oil such as plus gas might work better than lubricants such as WD40, 3 in 1 etc. As it happens though brute force, heat/cold and big hammers normally are what is called for.

Could you cut off/drill out one of the heads to release it?


If worse happens then it'll probably require drilling out to remove the bolt without damaging the surrounding material. If you did damage the surrounding area then and helicoiling or oversize tapping would be required. I am not too sure what the bolt in question looks like though so can't offer exact advice.

Good luck, rust is a c***ing f*** bag of a b****** to work with .

[trisers]

If the indicator is plastic and you're going to replace it anyway could you hacksaw the plastic away first giving you room to get the saw on the bolt afterwards?

[temeluchus]

Your best friend in this sort of situation is the good old impact driver.
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Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM!

[Frost]

File the rust off the flats so that you have good metal to get a snug fit on, then use an impact driver as said above. I bought one for about £6, best tool i've ever bought. It can't slip, has loads of torque, and helps to shock the bolt free.

[Walloper]

If you have tried the chemical warfare you say then the bolt is 'welded' with rust. Unless you can find something to weep/penetrate/eat into the rust between the threads then you are fighting a loosing battle.
Either, Get a drilling machine and set of drill bits and drill the sucker out. OR Get a hacksaw into it. Maybe one of those things you can get in B&Q that takes broken bits of hacksaw blades in a handle thingy doofur (A Pad Saw).
These are good for places with limited access, if you can see it you can get to it generally.
Or Malkie the nuts out of it with a hammer and chisel. Only thing about this method is the risk of heavy casualties through collateral damage. i.e. Broken 'other' (more expensive) bits of bike and or Blackened Finger Ends (Nail polish can hide this but the pain remains the same.)
For this job heating is a last resort as you run the risk of setting fire to your bike/shed/garage/house/life and maybe for little rewards/benefits.
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[BelleBot]

Cheers guys, I''ll have an attempt with plus gas and look in to getting a nut splitter if it'll fit in to the fiddly little space I have to work with. The indicator has already been removed (all the plastic bits and wiring) just the bolt and nut left.
I can get a good purchase on both the bolt head and the nut with a wrench and ratchet, but so far brute force is just causing the bolt to begin to round off. I'll struggle to get a hacksaw in due to the plastic being in the way. I did think about using the dremmel, but again, I think I have the same problem of not being able to get close enough to the bolt or I'd have to have a go at the nut which means I can't see what I'm doing.

I'll try an impact driver, just hoping I have some suitable socket drivers.

I've included a paint diagram if it's any help. There's a hole going straight through the bolt where the electrics were fed through, so I doubt a screw extractor would work.
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Current Bike: 2004 SV650S
Old Bike: 1989 Honda CB-1 - crashed

[Darth]

Use these...

https://www.screwfix.com/prods/96028/Van-Car-Accessories/Sockets-Hex/5-Piece-Bolt-Grip-Set

Job done - No drilling, no cutting, no faffing
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Harold_Shand wrote: I suppose it's like anything, you get your fingers burned when you start out, you learn from it and eventually become a complete arsehole about the whole thing.

[el_oso]

get a drill and drill it out.
if you have a drill and drill bits it don't cost a thing. a drill will always work whereas the extarctor things may not work or if the rusting is really that bad will shear the head off the bolt
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Duke 390
Previous: '05 XR125L | '96 XJ600S Diversion |'05 Suzuki GSXR1000 | '05 Honda CBR125-R | '97 YZF 600R Thundercat | '11 Honda CBR250
Car: Jeep Wrangler 4.0L

[chris-red]

Assuming the bolt hasn't rounded but the nut has

Get one of these

https://www.rpcpromo.com.au/images/superWrench16_photo.jpg

It will grip anything put it on the nut and get a socket on the bolt, this will not let the nut slip even if it is a perfect circle, the more force you put through it the tighter it grips.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
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[Mudskipper]

[chris-red]

[el_oso]

the pipe wrenches work until the bolt is so stuck and rusted it destroys the nut or you end up putting so much force onto it that it shears the bolt head straight off.
very unlikely but it has happened to me before with an extremely stuck engine mount
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Duke 390
Previous: '05 XR125L | '96 XJ600S Diversion |'05 Suzuki GSXR1000 | '05 Honda CBR125-R | '97 YZF 600R Thundercat | '11 Honda CBR250
Car: Jeep Wrangler 4.0L

[nightshaddow]

had one similar not long ago,what i did was brutal but worked,

angle grinder with a 1mm cutting disk cut the nut away and tap the rest with a hammer job done

didnt worry about the electrics in the bolt as new ones in new indicator
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"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews )

[chris-red]

[el_oso]

not if it is a threaded bolt. only if it is nut and bolt
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Duke 390
Previous: '05 XR125L | '96 XJ600S Diversion |'05 Suzuki GSXR1000 | '05 Honda CBR125-R | '97 YZF 600R Thundercat | '11 Honda CBR250
Car: Jeep Wrangler 4.0L

[lydanial]

i know you have tried the wd40 ac50 (or whatever etc).. i remember when i was young and my uncle was doing some maintanance work on some nasty knacker and rusty bolts he let them soak in COCA COLA??

anyway thought i would throw that in there.

edit...just looking it up and it reckons diet coke is better as it conatins more phosphoric acid

[Pete.]

[Billing]

If you can get a good grip on the side thats not rounding with a spanner, maybe try a pair of molegrips on the one that is rounding? helped with the spindle on my TZR (how that got rounded I'll never know)
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'84 TS50X, '91 TZR125, '89 CBR400RR, '91 VFR400R NC30, '98 R1
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[el_oso]

[chris-red]

[chris-red]

[DrDonnyBrago]