Chain Stretching Problems

[dan3411]

Just bought a Bandit ,well had it about 3 weeks and i have had to adjust the chain on it almost weekly is this normal? Well obviously it is not... but between it's last 2 MOTs it has only done like 1K miles and in these pasts 3 weeks i have clocks up about 1.5K.

I'll get some pics up of the chain, it looks ok-ish.

I adjust it to about 1.5 inches of play upwards at the tightest point... not that i could really find it but now it has about 2.5ish inches of play and it makes riding at low speeds a real pain and i have to nurse downshifts a bit more to save the transmission.

Are these characteristics of a crappy chain?
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Suzuki Bandit 600N

[SillyMe]

Yeah sounds about right for 1.5K.

Iv'e got a 400, done nearly 1000 miles and had to adjust the chain twice.

Use good penetrating chain loob.

[iooi]

Its not a case of what it looks like.....

If you spin the wheel (engine off) does the chain have a constant sag, or does it jump around (tight spots)

Brand new chain on my "V" and its done over 1K and still does not need adjusting.
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[dan3411]

So what is the correct free play, haynes says 25mm to 35 mm and i ok to go down to 20mm freeplay? I don't 2 up if that makes any difference?
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Suzuki Bandit 600N

[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

How tight are your tolerances Chris?
5mm on my 525 HV
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[Teflon-Mike]

I always worked on the principle that the brakes, tyres & chain were a weekly 'check' item..... irrespective of mileage, and 500 miles a week would be on the high-side, so no that isn't unusual... maybe unnecessary in these days of heavy duty sealed ring chains, but still a worthy precaution.
Worth noting that there are more moving parts in the average drive chain than in the rest of the bike put together, so I reckon it deserves a little attention, even if its only a wiggle to check the tension & a dousing of lube.
From symptoms though, it shouldn't slacken off that much, that quick. But I believe that the Bandit is a bit of an awkward one to tension properly becouse of the pivot possition, it needs to be checked with the suspension unloaded... sure some-one will correct me... and its made difficult by having only a side-stand.
(using a paddock-stand, on rear wheel spindle would support the swing-arm so leave the weight still on the back suspension)
Possible that its a crap chain stuck on by some-one that disn't see the point in an expensive one for a few sunny sunday miles, or it could just be on its last legs, or it could be you haven't 'quite' got the knack of tensioning it properly, or combination of all three.
Haynes Manual: check the exact procedure.
Appropriate stand: to make it easy
New C&S kit for when it does 'go'
Decent Chain Lube
DO carry on checking weekly, but hopefully you shouldn't have to ACTUALLY adjust it every time, just give it a squirt of lube, especially in the winter crud.
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[doggone]

I wonder if the previous owner has put a cheap crappy one on because he knew it was going.

[Bikeless]

Constantly adjusted my chain on my old 400,i reckon it was a DID copy as it was crap,bought it legit from M+P aswell,whereas the blade only needed doing once every 2000 miles or so,IIRC,with loads more power.

[doggone]

Sensible thing is get new quality chain and sprockets and have no wurries for a couple of years.
If the thing gives out at high speed you could do a lot of damage to the surrounding bits - and possibly your leg too.

[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

Since getting my verniers i've become abit anal about chain slack.

The 250 thumper is a 3 weekly adjustment ritual...Damm that thing loves new chains, probably due to wringing its neck and pillion duties.
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[N cee thirty]

adjusted my chain twice in 3k miles and its like brand new

if its not dragging on the floor its fine

this is a cg though
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[SillyMe]

[neatbik]

It does sound to me like either the chain is knackered, or just a bad quality one.

Years ago i put a cheap one on my RS125 and that needed almost constant adjustment.

Either way it sounds like you would benefit from a new one.
DID x or o ring is the way to go.

Another thing, what condition are your sprockets in?

[Zimbo]

Chains tend to need adjusting more often as they get worn,
To check the degree of wear on your chain, pinch the chain between your thumb and finger right at the back of the rear sprocket and try to pull the chain back directly away from the sprocket. Chains without wear won't move away from the sprocket at all as the pins and bushes are tight, a worn chain will move away fro the sprocket enough to expose most of a tooth due to wear on the pins.

[0l0dom0l0]

The Iris chain i had on my gpr 50 was awful! It needed adjusting every few hundrew miles, and that was a 50cc!! I can't imagine what they would be like on anything that actually had some power!

although as you say, its a did chain which are generally very good quality. not really sure what to suggest, just make sure it adjusted regularly.

your changin gear really aggressivly or anything are you?

[BanditsHigh]

[dan3411]

Part of me hopes it is human error, however i am using a paddock stand.. and following the steps in the manual.

Will be getting these end of the month;

https://bikespeeduk.com/epages/steer2916.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/steer2916/Products/3532VX

Only trouble is I have never changed a chain myself, the procedure it's looks very simple but like mosts things we shall see.
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Suzuki Bandit 600N

[Teflon-Mike]

[stinkwheel]

I don't like the sound of that and nor do you or you wouldn't have posted about it.

In fact, it sounds almost identical to the experience we had with my girlfriends CB500. It also came from an owner who was doing hundreds of miles a year.

We kept having to adjust the chain every 3-400 miles and were just winding it further and further back. I eventually got too concerned about this and ordered a new chain and sprocket kit for it.

Got the old one off and it looked like it was a "standard" grade, non o-ring, no-name chain (I'm happy enough with a non o-ring but it has to be heavy duty on a 500). Exactly the sort you find going cheap on tabletop stalls at autojumbles which, knowing the previous owner as I do, is exactly the sort of thing he'd pick up.

Put the Honda one on and it's needed to be adjusted ONCE in the last 2,000+ miles and even then, not by much.

Get it changed if for no other reason than piece of mind. At the very best, a broken chain will leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere. At the worst, it'll smash up your engine, cut a few toes off or cause a crash.
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[Vincent]

I've had rubbish chains last a few weeks before at least needing a couple of links removed. It can be hard parting with £100 plus for a new one but buying the cheapest chain can work out more costly in the long run.

It would be great if BCF could organise a "slush fund" where members could donate enough to buy a roll or two of decent chain between themselves at wholesale prices. Tho impossible no doubt.


Someting to remember about setting the "slack" on a chain - sometimes manufacturers will give the amount of slack for the chain being set while the bikes on the centrestand. This would take into account the slack taken up once you sit on the bike. Always check it after with you, (or someone else), on the bike.

[neil.]

[chris-red]

Yep I'd say so, I do my TDM once every 2 months (2k miles). I'd suggest it is on it's way out. I'd get a new one.


I don't care what anyone says having to adjust a chain every 500 miles is not normal.
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[Walloper]

I love these threads with hardly any variable conditions involved.

Get a manual with the correct OEM Bike/Chain.
Adjust the chain as per those instructions.

Excessive wear you describe will most probably be due to cheap components, over tensioning or racing everywhere.

Worn chains will probably be accompanied by worn sprocket teeth. (If fitted as a matched set.)
New chain on old sprocket will aggrivate any wear on the old parts and cause unwanted point contact on new chain parts (Rollers/Side plates).

Another reason for chain 'stretch' is the rear axle bolt is not clamping the wheel tight. So the chain doesn't stretch as far as one's imagination
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