'One-man' brake bleeding kit (one-way valve) - UPDATE: Argh!

[Ingah]

Have bought one of these one-man bleeding kits, and have changed my brake hose, so will be looking to refill the system and then bleed it, but i need some advice on it really as i don't find bleeding brakes easy at all.

One man kit as below:
https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320870889328

With this sort of kit, am i supposed to just connect it to the bleed nipple, leave the nipple 'open' and pump the brake lever (having tried this before, i remember watching the brake fluid go up and down the tube but not make actual progress to the end...), and does this all rely on gravity to work (because i've taken the caliper off the bike and don't have lots of different-height surfaces to use), because i've had a right bugger of a time getting this type of kit to work previously (couldn't make it happen) so ended up cutting the one-way valve end off, making it into a tube, and accepting a sub-standard bleed.
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-- Ingah

[binge]

Buy a massive syringe, and just suck the fluid through with that. Best and cleanest way without pressurebleeding from the top.

[Pete.]

Yes, that's how it's supposed to work, but the reality is that you usually draw air in through the bleed nipple threads.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[The Artist]

Yes, it is supposed to work like that. Loosen the nipple, put tube over nipple and pump keeping the reservoir topped up but sometimes it doesn't work. Ideally the tube needs to be full of brake fluid. You can make it shorter to make this job easier. They are only long so you can use them on cars.

Make sure the nipple isn't too loose otherwise air will get back in past the threads. Good idea is to wrap the nipple in PTFE tape if you have any.

Personally I use the syringe method for bleeding brakes. Get a big syringe, fill with fluid, attach tube to nipple and push all the fluid back up to the reservoir.

[temeluchus]

[binge]

[janner_10]

Whats wrong with the standard way?
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Yamaha FZS600 (Now gone to heaven) > CBR600F4i (SOLD) > '99 YZF-R1

[instigator]

I just use a simple bit of tubing for bleeding the brakes (more just to direct the brake fluid into a can than anything else), you don't need any form of valve to do it whatsoever.

[Noxious89123]

[temeluchus]

Vaccum or reverse bleeding can get the job done in seconds if done right, thats my main reason for doing it over the old fashioned way.

Rubber tube and a catheter tip syringe are only a few quid.
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Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM!

[Ingah]

Argh i knew this would happen - disc brakes y u so difficult to service!

Replaced the pads, copper-greased the backs, pushed the pistons back and cleaned them, new spring clip and everything, put it all back together, bled the system for ages, and on putting it all together and making sure its all tight - my brake is absolute crap!

It doesn't feel spongy, the lever feels like it should do - decent resistance, but you have to apply the brake really hard to actually stop the bike even at running-with-the-bike speeds* - it also makes a load squeak just as it stops too, as though i'd forgot the copper grease.

Is it my fault for buying EBC organic GG pads? (i've heard they're awful, but i didn't realise it was the organic ones i was buying)

I don't think its a problem with the bleeding because i can feel plenty of resistance at the lever, but i've cable-tied the brake on overnight anyway just in case.

Anyone got any ideas before i'm forced to concede i've wasted my time and take it to a garage?


* = even after running up and down the road trying this about 10-15 times just to be sure it wasn't going to sort itself out.
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-- Ingah

[bridlad]

Dont give in now mate youve done the lions share of the work new pads no matter what type do need to be bedded in so its worth just havin a steady ride and using the brakes to bed them in ,also give the discs a clean with aerosol brake cleaner or celly thinners you may just have got a smear of grease on therm,check the pads are clean too using the same method .On the squeaking front they may squeak slightly for a while but it will wear off.Lastly if you really think the pads are at fault it would be cheaper for you to buy another set and try them first before shelling out for a stealer to look at it
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Wheels polished and painted £90 a pair all in ..........bargain!