YBR Neutral

[gsmunn]

Having a bit of a larf with this one.

I can't seem to get my bike into neutral while the engine is running, if i pop it into first, engine off then on, it will go into neutral. If I do the same but using the kickstand to kill the engine, it will go into neutral, If the machine is running, can't get it into neutral for love nor money.

I have no issue going up or down any other gears and trying to go from 2nd to neutral results in it bumping right down to first.

Is this quite common or is something needing adjusting?

Cheers

[Alpha-9]

[arry]

Check the adjustment / condition of the clutch cable

[gsmunn]

[Teflon-Mike]

1/ Get a Workshop Manual Check 'Routine Maintenence' section
2/ Do Oil Change
3/ Read CAREFULLY the section in works-hop manual hon HOW to Adjust the Clutch.
HINT, you DO NOT do it with teh screw on the handle-bar lever! That is there MERELY to adjust the 'free-play' AT the lever.
Another Hint: Cable may move in sleeve, dont mean its 'fine'. Oil helps enormousely. But constantly tugged by hand fisted newbies tought poorly to keep tension on teh cable and constantly 'slip' the clutch as seems to be vogue now, they STRETCH and as they stretch, they get more and more bungee like and more and more of the lever travel gets used to take up the springiness in the cable, rather than actuially move stuff about inside the engine. For sake of a £10 likely to be worth swapping out for sake of anyway.
Further Hints: Clutch usually adjusts in three places. Often a screw and lock-nut type of adjustor on or behind plate on teh engine. This adjusts length of actuation rod that actually pushed plates apart inside the engine, as they get thinner to compensate for wear. Second is at the engine end of cable, where it pulls the lever that works the cam that poushed actuation rod, so that you can compensate for cable stretch. If you ONLY adjust teh cable, then you are using cable travel and clutch actuation cam travel to take up slack that should be adjusted with teh screw and lock-nut. Results in having to use twice the cable adjustment or more, but worse, pulling the lever round to the least effective range of travel, beyond 'centre' so you dont get as much clutch motion for your lever motion.
Another Hint: Hard-Worked learner bikes, with learners now tought to constantly slip the clutch, wear out clutch plates, and more the clutch springs. These are not expensive or difficult to replace.
However. Styart at the top and work through the list. Get manual. Change Oil, adjust to the book.
Also, for gear change 'slopiness' or general nastyness, see this thread:-
Missing second gear - is it me or the bike.
Hard used Learner-Bikes also get thier transmissions hammered by clumsy gear changes and jerky take-offs.
4/ Check condition of rear wheel 'Cush-Drive' - replace rubbers if at all 'sloppy'.
5/ Correctly Adjust Chain & lubricate

BASIC MAINTENENCE goes an awful long way.
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[P.]

CBR was the same, put in 2nd and lean on the lever, seemed to roll into neutral if bike was moving, sitting at lights...leave in first, parking..leave in 1st

[Tomzo47]

neutral was a ball ache on my YBR, wouldnt seem to go into it from first, only from second, and even then got to give it a shove. Then after trying to get it into neutral, pull off again later and slips straight into it when i pull off making me sound like a twat
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Ybr 125 > Bandit 650SA > GSXR 600 > Triumph Sprint St1050 > CB1300 > Z1000SX + FJ1200 (written off) > VFR750 >FJ1200

[Rogerborg]

It seems to be more of an issue with smaller engines. My 125 needed quite a bit of ticking to find neutral when hot, it's not so much of an issue with the larger bikes.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[gsmunn]

Clues in the title rogerborg It be a ybr 125

Tef, the oil's been changed recently, cheers for the post though, will have a work through it all at the weekend when i'm of work.

At least for me anyway, having a duff neutral isn't the apocalypse, everything else works fine and the gearing elsewhere is spot on, it just doesn't like going into neutral while running

[Rogerborg]

[Teflon-Mike]

[gsmunn]

It's always been like that, didn't have much Luck on the schools CBT bikes either, the bike goes into neutral from first if the revs are high enough sometimes.

It's 10w40 oil, halfords

[_Iain_]

If its car oil that can cause greif specificly with the clutch - or so i've heard. Why not just chuck the proper yamalube in it from a bike shop? Less than a tenner a bottle & you know its fit for purpose!

With that said, the YBR's are a right shit to get into neutral at the best of times, mine always has been. Tightening up the gear selector lever helps get a better feel for it. If it doesnt go straight in i'll click 1st, little bit of revs and let the clutch out till it bites, clutch in and then it'll go.
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[gsmunn]