Removing chain

[Bubbs]

Looking to save money on chain maintenance, I hear a lot of people remove their drive chain and soak in kerosine to get rid of the muck which I presume saves money due to the extortionate costs of muck off and the like.

Is it a pain to get the chain off or something you can learn to do really quick? Haynes gives it a 2 spanner but haynes can sometimes be a fucker for explaining things in a way that makes sense to the layman.

Also does anyone use old engine oil for lube? Or is there another alternative that splatter less.

Boring question I know, but I got's to know.
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[anthony_r6]

Two ways to get the chain off. Either remove the split link, or remove the rear wheel and slide it off. I've heard of people using engine oil, I personally just use generic chain lube.
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[iMark]

I just use an old paint brush with paraffin(Kerosene) while its still attached to the bike to clean it... lubing it up, I still have a cheap generic spray of chain lube, but you can use engine oil.... although it tends to fling off quite easily

Soaking it over night in paraffin will mean you need to let it completely dry inside too, then soak it again in oil to make sure its lubed up properly afterwards
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[Drake]

depends on if your using a split link or a rivet link
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[DrDonnyBrago]

Your Kwak will almost certainly have a rivet link and an O ring chain which makes removal of your chain something you only really do when it is due to be replaced.


Get a bowl of paraffin and an old paint brush - does the trick nicely as the bristles are too soft to damage the O rings and the brush holds loads of paraffin to rinse the grime out, soaking an O ring chain in paraffin wouldn't really achieve anything that a brush and bowl wouldn't. Paraffin can be had in B+Q, homebase etc, sold as outdoor lamp fuel for about £5 for 4L.


As for reoiling, I dry the chain with a rag or leave it to dry (paraffin evaporates, albeit slowly) and reoil with gear oil on a rag. If you don't put too much on it doesn't fling and gear oil is a bit thicker than engine oil which also helps.

[GREENI3]

You can clean it with it still on the bike you know?
Obviously not as good as if you removed it, but even so.

Just go over it with a toothbrush and paraffin, then wipe it down with a rag.
Leave the paraffin to evaporate overnight, before applying any lubricant.

I use 80-90w gear oil for lube.
Slap it on with a cut down paint brush on the bottom run of the chain, then wipe off the excess.

I used to use that wurth dry chain lube, but didn't think it did anything and had absolutely no corrosion resistance properties whatsoever.
Costs about £8 for a 500ml can and only used to get about 4 uses out of it.

Gear oil cost £3.69 for a 1 litre bottle and I've used barely any of it after about 10 uses.

It's more viscous than engine oil, so you'll get less fling off on the rear tyre.

Honda recommend using gear oil in my owners manual, so it must be good.

[Bubbs]

Ah cool, I'll continue to clean without removal then. Thanks for the advice.
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[flumpy7]

I use scottoil for lubing... with or without a scottoiler - just paint it on. Its not so flingy as engine oil and really easy to clean off.
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2012 Sinnis apache

[Jersum]

Apparently it's a good idea to clean out the small sprocket housing so you don't get loads of crap on the chain as soon as you start riding.
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[Derivative]

On my CG it was pretty trivial to get the rear wheel off, though I suppose your ZX6 is likely to not have a centre stand.

On the centre stand, the bike naturally balanced itself on the front wheel, unbolt the rear, take off the sprocket casing (does this have a better name?), pull the chain off without having to split it.

I tend to think that it's only worth doing very occasionally though. Chains are expensive, but not so expensive as to faff about taking wheels off every month just to save a little bit on wear. Get a brush and some sort of solvent while it's on the bike, done.

[GREENI3]

[P.addy]

[map]

[Derivative]

[bikertomm]

OP, I don't know!

What I can reccomend is that S.Doc 100 white chain cleaner that was only a quid not long ago.

Mine came the other day and I've just done my chain and been for a 60 mile hoon with virtually no fling off!

There's about 8 dots on my numberplate, can't notice anywhere else!

Get some of that once you've soaked it
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[truslack]

[Bubbs]

Only reason I ask about chain removal is because quite a few people say they soak their chain in paraffin oil, looking at the chain it won't come off with just the rear wheel, looks like quite a few bits need to come loose to do it. But I'll stick with the same method only using paraffin instead.

Need to buy a frigging paddock stand now too as mother in law managed to loose the parts that prop the bike up.. My paddock stand is now a paddock paper weight.

Anyone got a spare they want to sell me?
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Life begins at the end of your comfort zone.

[Bubbs]

[Derivative]

[truslack]

Are you trolling or just stupid? The engine is in front of the swingarm, the chain goes above and below the swingarm. how could you possibly remove an endless chain that is round the swingarm without removing the swingarm itself?
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Current: Suzuki RG 125 Gamma, Honda H100, Triumph Tiger 800XC, Suzuki SV650 (minitwin)

[Derivative]

[TamaJosh]

I've always just oiled my chain. My ninja 250 has a small grille near my left foot where the gearbox sprocket is so you can see it. Looks like it might be easy to remove (from memory, not actually looking at it now) or at least squirt a hose into it to clean out the crap before oiling the chain.

Not oiled my ninja chain yet (it's new so haven't had the chance) but did on my old cbf by rotating the wheel on it's centre stand. Sportsbikes don't normally have a centre stand as far as I know but I guess you could just oil a bit, roll the bike forward and oil a bit more and repeat...
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[truslack]

Sorry, all the CG's I've ridden had a normal swingarm and chain arrangement, yours must be different.
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Current: Suzuki RG 125 Gamma, Honda H100, Triumph Tiger 800XC, Suzuki SV650 (minitwin)

[DrDonnyBrago]

[Derivative]