How has this happened?? SV650

[Clutchy]

Rode 200 miles up to my Dads house today, stopped and started a few times during the 200mi. Started on the button each time no problems.

When I turned up, I switched the bike off went and said Hello taking 2 mins went back to start the bike to bring it outside the house and when I turned the key nothing happened.

Nothing at all? Turned the key all the way round onto parking lights and they didn't come on so I'm stumped here?

Checked battery connectors they're tight, checked fuses they're fine.

Put the battery on charge just to rule that out as I don't have my multimeter with me

How do I fix this?
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Malaguti F12 Phantom-Dead, Suzuki AY50- Dead, NRG power DD LQ, CBR125.
*33 BHP restriction up on 10/12/14* Current bikes/car: SV 650 S/ MKIV GOLF
Guide to pass your test with no lessons!

[Sload]

You didnt flip the kill switch did you?
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Honda Varadero >> Triumph Speed Four >> Honda CBR1100xx

[Clutchy]

No, I've got no display or anything, no lights on the HUD at all...
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Malaguti F12 Phantom-Dead, Suzuki AY50- Dead, NRG power DD LQ, CBR125.
*33 BHP restriction up on 10/12/14* Current bikes/car: SV 650 S/ MKIV GOLF
Guide to pass your test with no lessons!

[Acemastr]

Jiggled the key in the ignition? loose wire somewhere?
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2017 KTM 350 XC-F - 2014 Yamaha R6 - 2005 Yamaha YZ125
2016 Toyota Tacoma Limited

[Sload]

[lihp]

Plug for front end loose?
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covent.gardens: lihp is my most favourite member ever

[Sload]

Possible semi flounce?
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Honda Varadero >> Triumph Speed Four >> Honda CBR1100xx

[wots]

Same thing happened to me on the ER6, it was the main fuse, which wasn't with the rest. It was next to the reg/rec and was of the larger blade type compared to the smaller blade for the rest.
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Currently: Yamaha DT 125 LC2,Repsol Fireblade, and Bumblebee MSX 125

[Clutchy]

[Pete.]

Look on the starter solenoid for a big 30A fuse under a white plastic cover. To find the solenoid, follow the heavy red wire from the battery.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Clutchy]

[Pete.]

One of the fuses is a spare most likely.

Forget the kill switch it doesn't affect the dash lights or ancilliaries, just the run circuit.

If the fuse is ok, suspect the ignition switch. It's the only thing you moved between the bike running one minute then not lighting up the next. Any chance someone tried to steal it whilst you were in the house for a few moments?
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Clutchy]

Ok thanks!

Regards to stealing, I don't think so, was within sight
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Malaguti F12 Phantom-Dead, Suzuki AY50- Dead, NRG power DD LQ, CBR125.
*33 BHP restriction up on 10/12/14* Current bikes/car: SV 650 S/ MKIV GOLF
Guide to pass your test with no lessons!

[Pete.]

Wiring diagram says heavy red lead to solenoid, 30A fuse, red lead to switch, orange out of switch carries power out to fuses 3 and 4 and the light switch.

Fuse 5 gets power direct from the solenoid fuse, so if you have power at 5 but not at 3 and 4 with the switch on, the switch is at fault, or a plug in the loom on that circuit.

If you have no power at fuse 5, the fuse in the solenoid is blown or the loom / negative to battery is at fault.

The very first thing I would do is follow the thinner of the two negative wires from the battery. There is a large spade connector in it, which can rot and cause a bad connection. I had that problem on my 'busa. It's shown on the diagram just above the battery symbol.

https://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv118/hmmmnz2/suzuki/sv650S-E02-wiring2.jpg
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[doggone]

First thing to check is good earth connection.
Connect a jump lead to bright part and negative terminal.
any bit of wire will do to see if there are flickering signs of life.

[doggone]

First thing to check is good earth connection.
Connect a jump lead to bright part and negative terminal.
any bit of wire will do to see if there are flickering signs of life.

[janner_10]

First thing to do is buy a multi meter - about a £5 at Maplins.
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Yamaha FZS600 (Now gone to heaven) > CBR600F4i (SOLD) > '99 YZF-R1

[P.]

Sounds like my SV... decided to shit its charging system though, ran fine the whole journey, come back an hour later and shit was toast. Battery was swollen too.

[WindyMiller]

I had a similar problem a while ago. Turns out the electrical connectors are susceptible to corrosion, including the green one for the ignition switch.

When I got my connector out, one of the pins was a bit black and charred. Possibly not helped by some idiot having wired the heated grips through it and not via a separate relay off the battery.

Pete's right - check the voltage at the fuses under the pillion seat. One is direct off the battery, the others are via the ignition switch. That should tell you if the switch isn't switching.

I ended up replacing the switch (+ lockset). If you need to do that, I left some tips on sv650.org. The wiring diagram in the Haynes has the switch connections wrong, the green connector is fiddly to disconnect and the bolts holding the switch in are not fun to drill out, so try very hard not to damage the heads.
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YBR125 SV650S Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Walloper]

1st things 1st.

Is the frame bent or is there too much slack in the chain?

For my money, I would jump all over the main power connections.
One by one. Remove the positive lead from the battery, main relay, starter, earth cables etc. (Even though they 'look' clean) Clean the contact surfaces with 600 wet n dry or a soft wire brush (Brass suede brush out of the shoe polish tin).
Do that with all big connectors and make up secure. Don't go mental with the screws mind. They are only holding in amps, volts and ohms so no need to crush everything in sight flat.
You can spray a bit of WD40 on the connectors to help keep them clean. That ACF50 if ideal for this too.

Sometimes things vibrate loose in service and that can disturb continuity between connections. Oxidation creeps into microscopic gaps too. It doesn't take much shit to stop electrons flowing. They are lazy wee bastirts.
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[devojunior]

firstly take the right hand side cover off the black one thtast below the riders seat pozi screw and 4mm allen key plus rider seat obs.

there you will find starter relay and main fuse 30amp if i remeber check it and if fucked wrap in tinfoil to get you home if not try the reg/rec also on righthand side of bike but will require rear panels taking off to get access these are common and will run for a while whilst fubard good look keep us posted.

[Clutchy]

Will try everyones suggestions, will clean everything and if that doesn't fix it I'll buy a MM.

Had the battery on charge when I took it off and it's been on charge for a good 2 1/2 hours before it indicated full so yeah charging system could be fubar'd.

Great took me ages the sort that on the cbr!!
____________________
Malaguti F12 Phantom-Dead, Suzuki AY50- Dead, NRG power DD LQ, CBR125.
*33 BHP restriction up on 10/12/14* Current bikes/car: SV 650 S/ MKIV GOLF
Guide to pass your test with no lessons!

[Clutchy]

Put the fully charged battery on, made no difference, cleaned up the connectors that I could get to, the 30A fuse wasn't blown, all the smaller fuses were fine, tried a spare on the ignition on just to be sure and made no difference.

Looked at all the wires I could see on the bike and nothing looks damaged
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Malaguti F12 Phantom-Dead, Suzuki AY50- Dead, NRG power DD LQ, CBR125.
*33 BHP restriction up on 10/12/14* Current bikes/car: SV 650 S/ MKIV GOLF
Guide to pass your test with no lessons!

[WindyMiller]

If you have a bit of wire handy, you could try bypassing the ignition switch (it's how the AA got me going when it happened to me).

Wire from the battery to the ignition fuse under the pillion seat and see if there's any life (ideally wire to the fuse and plug the fuse in, so you have 12V on both sides of the fuseholder). Turn the ignition switch on as well, see what else comes on (if anything).

Not a solution, but might help to diagnose the problem without a multimeter. Might be easier to buy a multimeter.

(discalaimer: not my fault if anything breaks or catches fire)
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YBR125 SV650S Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[J.M.]

Take a look at the connector block from the ignition barrel to the main loom. If one of the terminals there is corroded then you may have a poor connection which has stopped working.

This happened to my bike once. I stopped for petrol, turned off the ignition. Went to get back on the bike afterwards and had nothing. Queue me juggling around with that connector block and then all the lights came back on.
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2004 R1 & 2018 XSR900