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GhostRider
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Tl1000r electrical issues Reply with quote

So bought a TL1000r couple of weeks ago, 2 days later try to start it up after work and it wouldn't fire up, had to get Tarmacsurfer to come rescue me giving me a jump start from his robin reliant Laughing

So anyway I figured it was simply a case of worn down battery, bought a Motobatt to replace it, fitted that in this Saturday just gone, have used the bike perhaps 5-6 times since then travelling 6-8 miles each time, finish work today and again will not start, it tries to turn over but seems just not enough to get it going. I tried bumping a few times then retried electric start and fortunately it fired up this time.

My limited knowledge suggests probably the Reg/Rec is fucked and so isnt recharging the battery whilst its in motion, either that or the Datatool alarm is sapping all power from the battery - though I'd be suprised if it could drain a brand new battery in 3 days.

Is there a simple way to test the Reg/Rec? What else could it be?

The cheaper the solution the better, this bike is rapidly turning into a blackhole for money, so I just want to get the issue sorted so I can sell it on, and since I will no doubt be making a loss when doing so, I've no interest in spending a lot of money sorting this problem out.

Cheers,

GhostRider
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 18:40 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could it be the sprag thingy? It firing up after you tried to bump it suggests something might have come unstuck and I've read the sprag thing can cause problems as it's related to the clutch/starter in some way.

V-twins have sprags...your bike is a v-twin?
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 18:52 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hetzer wrote:
Could it be the sprag thingy? It firing up after you tried to bump it suggests something might have come unstuck and I've read the sprag thing can cause problems as it's related to the clutch/starter in some way.

V-twins have sprags...your bike is a v-twin?


Virtually every bike that doesn't have a CV drive uses a sprag clutch on the starter motor. The sprag clutch is irrelevant to the starter motor not turning over, in fact if it wasn't functioning the starter would just spin.

More likely to be a charging problem, use multimeter to test.
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GhostRider
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hetzer wrote:
Could it be the sprag thingy? It firing up after you tried to bump it suggests something might have come unstuck and I've read the sprag thing can cause problems as it's related to the clutch/starter in some way.

V-twins have sprags...your bike is a v-twin?


Yeah its a V-twin, any ideas where I might find said Sprag or how I would identify if its the issue?

Quote:
Multi meter on the battery when its running and see if it goes to around 14v when revved, if it does then the reg/rec is ok, but something has to be really wrong for a mottbatt to go flat, so my moneys on the shitty alarm.

Also lulz @ robin reliant.


At the risk of sounding stupid is there an easy way to stop the fucking alarm from working, I need to be able to ride the bike daily for the rest of the week and theres every chance at the moment that every time I stop, I have no guarantee it will start again so could be stranded in the middle of fucking nowhere, so will happily tear the thing out if I can do so in a way that will leave the bike working.

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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Assuming the battery being new isnt the cause
and as its a new to you machine.
I'd start by testing the stator first then the rectifier and
then when its running, the regulator to know if the battery is getting properly charged when running.
I reckon its a good idea to check these from time to time anyway
plus all related cables and connectors.

If they all check out OK, I'd get a meter set to read current and with the bike turned off, remove the battery positive lead and see how much, if any, current is flowing with or without the alarm connected.

I wouldnt want to see any more than say 100mA running through the alarm in its standby state.

If the battery looks OK but the starters lazy
its possible the starter brushes are worn or it has poor grounding
Dont know the TL personally but some bikes suffer from a poor grounding on the brush plate inside the motor.
Power gets down from the battery and in via the positive brush and through the armature and commutator OK but the negative brush often relies on physical contact from the brushplate to the starter body for a ground and any poor connection here can lead to arcing which develops a higher resistance as it worsens.
This can cause erratic starting.
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GhostRider
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Checked voltage across battery before starting, was at 16-17v. Started up bike and revved up to 5k (kinda hard to rev it much further without really pissing off the neighbours as its a rather loud bike) and it didnt drop below 15v. I'm guessing this rules out reg/rec then?



WD Forte wrote:
Assuming the battery being new isnt the cause
and as its a new to you machine.


It did this with the battery in that came with it, replacing the battery hasn't resolved anything so dont think it can be rounded down to the battery.

Quote:

I'd start by testing the stator first then the rectifier and
then when its running, the regulator to know if the battery is getting properly charged when running.
I reckon its a good idea to check these from time to time anyway
plus all related cables and connectors.

If they all check out OK, I'd get a meter set to read current and with the bike turned off, remove the battery positive lead and see how much, if any, current is flowing with or without the alarm connected.

I wouldnt want to see any more than say 100mA running through the alarm in its standby state.

If the battery looks OK but the starters lazy
its possible the starter brushes are worn or it has poor grounding
Dont know the TL personally but some bikes suffer from a poor grounding on the brush plate inside the motor.
Power gets down from the battery and in via the positive brush and through the armature and commutator OK but the negative brush often relies on physical contact from the brushplate to the starter body for a ground and any poor connection here can lead to arcing which develops a higher resistance as it worsens.
This can cause erratic starting.


Sorry I should have started by explaining that I'm a complete retard when it comes to these things - I'd like to test each of what you're saying but I'm gonna need step by step instructions if I'm to have any hope of taking accurate measurements/getting the right answers Thumbs Up

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stu_m
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

first thing to do is to put NEW plugs in

these bikes are notorious for fouling them and without decent new plugs you are pissing in the wind

also get another multimeter theres no way you can have 16-17v at the battery when its not running

also the charging system on these are shite and unless its been modified the volts will drop when you rev the bike
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stu_m
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

GhostRider wrote:
[
Yeah its a V-twin, any ideas where I might find said Sprag or how I would identify if its the issue?



it wont be the starter clutch if it turns over theres nothing wrong with it and these very rarely fail infact I dont know of any that have failed on the S or the R
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GhostRider
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PostPosted: 19:42 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

stu_m wrote:
first thing to do is to put NEW plugs in

these bikes are notorious for fouling them and without decent new plugs you are pissing in the wind

also get another multimeter theres no way you can have 16-17v at the battery when its not running

also the charging system on these are shite and unless its been modified the volts will drop when you rev the bike


Apparently the plugs were replaced but 1000 miles ago.

Have taken the battery out to charge it overnight, will check again shortly to see what voltage is across the battery.

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sickpup
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PostPosted: 19:42 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

GhostRider wrote:
Checked voltage across battery before starting, was at 16-17v. Started up bike and revved up to 5k (kinda hard to rev it much further without really pissing off the neighbours as its a rather loud bike) and it didnt drop below 15v. I'm guessing this rules out reg/rec then?


Suggests the batteries in your multimeter need changing.

Lead acid cells have a nominal voltage of around 2.1-2.2v whereas according to your multimeter yours have 2.8v so something is up.
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stu_m
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

GhostRider wrote:

Apparently the plugs were replaced but 1000 miles ago.

Have taken the battery out to charge it overnight, will check again shortly to see what voltage is across the battery.

GhostRider


I would replace them again

and while your at it trim the HT leads about half an inch too

do you get FI on the dash while cranking too?
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

16-17V?
oooh! thats not right
As said, check your meter, it may just need a new battery
you dont want even 15V across the battery terminals
about 14-14.5v is normal when running.

Trying to think of a quick and dirty meter test here
You could try it on say a new 9V battery and if it doesnt read 9V as near as dammit, the meters at fault.
You may see 8.8 ish on a used 9v battery

PC power supplies come to mind, you'll get a pretty good 5v and 12v there but if you're not happy digging about in the guts of a PC, leave it alone.
I'm afraid that until you have a meter that can be relied on, testings off the menu.

While the Tl may be heavy on plugs it should still turn over the engine smartly on a good battery even if it doesnt start.
New plugs on a machine with unknown service history is a good idea, but I kind of doubt thats the cause of your problems
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

While I'm rantin on....

If you measure the voltage on a battery just off charge or on a bike just switched off, you'll normally get an artificially high reading
A healthy battery left overnight at room temperature should give about 12.65V
One thats getting bit tired may show say 12.45V like mine
As they get older, less.
These are 'no load' figures ie nothing connected to them to draw power
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stu_m
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:

about 14-14.5v is normal when running.



you wont get that from a running TL

the charging system is piss poor and your lucky if you get 13V when running and this will drop when revved!!

theres a very easy mod you can do to get 14+ volts at the battery

if your doing short runs then it could be that your battery is not getting charged enough from starting

but the motobatt should crank the TL over and fire straight up all the time! I have a motobatt on my TLS and it cranks over and fires first go
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sounds pretty dire
Dont know the TL myself so did a wee google search out of interest and found this.


https://www.tlzone.net/forums/suzuki-tl1000r-tl1000s-forum/134126-need-serious-electrical-help-98-tl1000r-please-4.html
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stu_m
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PostPosted: 20:28 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
That sounds pretty dire
Dont know the TL myself so did a wee google search out of interest and found this.


https://www.tlzone.net/forums/suzuki-tl1000r-tl1000s-forum/134126-need-serious-electrical-help-98-tl1000r-please-4.html


yup it is pretty shit!

you even get as much as 4volt drop at the headlight connectors through the crappy wiring!!

the link you really want is this

https://www.tlzone.net/forums/frequent-tl-mods/111499-definitive-charging-system-diagnostic-upgrade-thread.html Very Happy

and if you do the charging system mod you need to run the headlights off relays

https://www.tlzone.net/forums/frequent-tl-mods/111776-crappy-suzuki-wiring.html

these two alone make a huge difference

also join up at tlzone.net and ask there but you will only get start with new plugs Laughing
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GhostRider
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuck me I wish I'd known about all these issues beforehand I'd have ran a fucking mile from buying it Crying or Very sad

GhostRider
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stu_m
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

GhostRider wrote:
Fuck me I wish I'd known about all these issues beforehand I'd have ran a fucking mile from buying it Crying or Very sad

GhostRider


there not so much an issue its just improvements Wink

Ive had my TLS 7 years and love it

the S and the R inherit the same problems and if you keep on top of them they are great bikes Smile
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stu_m
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rob Fzs wrote:


£800 quid for it taken away next week sometime if you're really stuck Very Happy


theres someone selling one for that on tlzone.net although it needs work
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 21:54 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

68,000 miles on mine and the electrics have been fine.
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GhostRider
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PostPosted: 21:58 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rob Fzs wrote:
GhostRider wrote:
Fuck me I wish I'd known about all these issues beforehand I'd have ran a fucking mile from buying it Crying or Very sad

GhostRider


£800 quid for it taken away next week sometime if you're really stuck Very Happy


I'd rather suck off 10 homeless guys with bleeding dicks in an alley.

GhostRider
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