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Can/should I use Shell V Power Nitro,etc in my RD125LC

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Learnatic
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 18 Jan 2014
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 18 Jan 2014    Post subject: Can/should I use Shell V Power Nitro,etc in my RD125LC Reply with quote
Hi there,

I've just bought myself a totally refurbished 1986 RD125LC mkII (YPVS & de-restricted), which I'm extremely chuffed with to say the least!

I know it will run fine on 'normal' unleaded but I was wondering if any of you might be able advise whether it's safe, or recommended, to use Shell V Power/BP Ultimate type fuels, or are they likely to do more harm than good?

Kind Regards

Chris
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RD125LC Mk 2.5 1986 Full Power YPVS

TZR125 1992 Full Power YPVS
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Kickstart
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Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 18 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hi

Super unleaded is just 98 RON fuel, but V Power and the like claim a few other things.

If it is safe to run on 95 RON fuel (standard they are, so unless someone has raised the compression it should be fine) then there is no gain from using higher octane fuel. Indeed possibly a very slight loss of power.

As to vpower, etc, they make a few claims but not sure useful they are.

One difference could be ethanol content, but finding out which (if any) fuels have high ethanol contents is difficult.

All the best

Keith
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simonjb
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 18 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
It shouldn't make MUCH difference, unless as Kickstart said, the compression has be altered. If you're concered with long term cost go for standard unleaded, but if you notice any knocking or unusual engine vibration, change it to higher octane fuel such as Nitro+, BP Ultimate or any 97+ RON fuel. Whatever you do, make sure you don't go for cheap supermarket brands, the real difference is not between Shell (or BP) regular vs. super, but between cheap fuel and dedicated companies.

For my 4-stroke YBR I personally use nitro plus whenever I go to shell, because it has additives to help the engine stay healthy*, it gives me a hint more power, and ups my MPG by around 5-10 MPG (Difference between 115 and 125). As the price difference for a 10L fill up is not that much, it does seem worth it to me.

*Here's an article on the actual difference
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pdg
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 18 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
simonjb wrote:
Whatever you do, make sure you don't go for cheap supermarket brands


Because the supermarkets don't buy fuel on the open market from the exact same refineries as the 'big brands' (and small independent operators).

What supermarkets do is make their own fuels from liquidised owls, then add grit and wear accelerating additives.
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Northern Monkey
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 18 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
pdg wrote:
simonjb wrote:
Whatever you do, make sure you don't go for cheap supermarket brands


Because the supermarkets don't buy fuel on the open market from the exact same refineries as the 'big brands' (and small independent operators).

What supermarkets do is make their own fuels from liquidised owls, then add grit and wear accelerating additives.
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simonjb
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 18 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
pdg wrote:

Because the supermarkets don't buy fuel on the open market from the exact same refineries as the 'big brands' (and small independent operators).

What supermarkets do is make their own fuels from liquidised owls, then add grit and wear accelerating additives.


Supermarket brands aren't "bad" as they all have to conform to EU standards, but they do differ quite significantly depending on where you go, there is a difference in quality. They do all come from the same base product, but the differences come from the different additives and final product RON. Fifth gear tested this - as well as many more reputable sources, whilst it won't damage an engine, it doesn't help with economy, power, or engine life.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 18 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
simonjb wrote:

*Here's an article on the actual difference


Aaa, so the lubricant in the fuel is doing a far better of job of lubricating the piston against the cylinder wall than the 4 off litres of oil sloshing around the engine at the same time (That's designed specifically for the job). This lube is also resistant to the 600 odd degrees of combustion temperature.

The article also mentions you could run an increased compression ratio, but doesn't touch on what this is, or how it could be altered.

PB ran an article on 95, 98 and 110 octane fuel a few years back. The conclusion was that it's not worth bothering unless you're racing or running a tuned engine that requires it. The test bike was a 2004 CBR600RR if I remember rightly on BSD's dyno.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 22:38 - 18 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
simonjb wrote:
They do all come from the same base product, but the differences come from the different additives and final product RON. Fifth gear tested this


The higher RON is pretty much irrelevant for anything without a knock sensor (so irrelevant for most non turbo engines), as it cannot be taken advantage of.

From memory the 5th gear test only got any noticeable change in performance from a couple of turbo cars.

I suspect the YBR min octane requirements are a long way below the normal unleadeds 95 RON rating.

All the best

Keith
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Learnatic
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 19 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks for the replies guys. Wink

I'll stick with the BP regular unleaded then (or use Ultimate, if I have any pops/bangs/burps/farts).

Chris
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TZR125 1992 Full Power YPVS
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 12 years, 166 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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