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ER6-F Blowing exhaust

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marlc0
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 22 Dec 2013
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PostPosted: 07:18 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: ER6-F Blowing exhaust Reply with quote
Right then, out on a ride t'other day, and after a bit of a bumpy stretch of road, the bike started to sound rather loud.
Limped it back home, and parked her up, had a look around, couldn't see anything obvious, when i gave it some revs, the back box was rattling on the joint to the header, thus the issue.

So, has anyone done this before? I've got a haynes manual, but i thought i'd ask some sage advice before I dive into it. It looks like it's held on by a jubulee clip type thing, but it's rusty as shit, so will probs need replacing.

Any tips?
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wots
World Chat Champion



Joined: 30 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 07:43 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Common fault, snaps at the weld at the end of the down pipe. As the pipe flexes it finally fractures. Just hope and pray the studs come out.

This was my exhaust after it snapped, the last section of the down pipe is still inside the back box.

https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/IMG_5051_zps0b8d9e23.jpg~original
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barrkel
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Mine snapped after 5 years and 45k miles.

Delkevic do a decent enough set of stainless headers.
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marlc0
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 22 Dec 2013
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yup, that's exactly the problem, it probably didn't help that the clip had rotted away to nothing, too. How much of a twat was it to get that bit of header out of the box? I've been knocking shit out of it for 20 minutes, and it's just laughing at me, i'll just have to get hold of a cutter of some-sort, and cut it from the inside.

Either that, or new end can as well!
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wots
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
marlc0 wrote:
How much of a twat was it to get that bit of header out of the box? I've been knocking shit out of it for 20 minutes, and it's just laughing at me, i'll just have to get hold of a cutter of some-sort, and cut it from the inside.Either that, or new end can as well!

Easy actually. Dremel straight down the slots on both sides which relieves the pressure then you can just get a screwdriver under and pull out. There is the 'gasket' around the pipe so it does move, you just need to relieve the pressure and you can pull it out.
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marlc0
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 22 Dec 2013
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
wotsthestory wrote:

Easy actually. Dremel straight down the slots on both sides which relieves the pressure then you can just get a screwdriver under and pull out. There is the 'gasket' around the pipe so it does move, you just need to relieve the pressure and you can pull it out.


That's almost exactly what i did, except i used a hacksaw (No dremel for me) and then proceded to beat the daylights out of it, to no avail. I'll try again tomorrow, see if i have any more luck.
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guile
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Joined: 20 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
marlc0 wrote:
How much of a twat was it to get that bit of header out of the box?


Don't give up yet. I just did this recently and I was probably chiselling out the rotten gasket for a couple of hours down to where the inlet strips go. Then I gave it a hard twist and pull and it came out. I'm just hoping the clamp will get the silencer head back to its original tight circle.

On a related note, I can't get my header pipes off because the nuts are rusted and rounded. Just about ready to pay a garage to have a go. Any ideas? If I just go ape and smash a chisel through the nut, the thread underneath is going to damaged. Do these (studs?) that the nut is on come out easily or what?

The amount of people who have suffered this problem is a complete joke - clear design fault. Is there any legal basis for action against Kawasaki if the manufacturers warranty is out of date?
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marlc0
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 22 Dec 2013
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PostPosted: 04:46 - 07 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
guile wrote:
marlc0 wrote:
How much of a twat was it to get that bit of header out of the box?


Don't give up yet. I just did this recently and I was probably chiselling out the rotten gasket for a couple of hours down to where the inlet strips go. Then I gave it a hard twist and pull and it came out. I'm just hoping the clamp will get the silencer head back to its original tight circle.

On a related note, I can't get my header pipes off because the nuts are rusted and rounded. Just about ready to pay a garage to have a go. Any ideas? If I just go ape and smash a chisel through the nut, the thread underneath is going to damaged. Do these (studs?) that the nut is on come out easily or what?

The amount of people who have suffered this problem is a complete joke - clear design fault. Is there any legal basis for action against Kawasaki if the manufacturers warranty is out of date?


How old is your bike? Mines a 10 plate, and has done 8K miles. The header bolts came out easier than i thought they would, old of the studs stayed in the block, the other 3 came out with the nuts. Have you tried knocking on a smaller socket?

But yeah, for this to be a common fault stinks of shoddy build quality. I've just had to take apart the headlight, as the reflector thingy had snapped. Fixing that was a pain in the balls.

For what I would consider an almost new bike, the poor build quality is really shining through. I;m very tempted on just fixing it and getting rid.
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Muscle Bike Rider
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Joined: 27 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: 08:47 - 07 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Its a common fault on the ER6, my 10 plate front pipes snapped at 4yrs and 20,000 miles despite me changing the end can as the stock can on these weigh a ton which don't help. I changed the front pipes to Delkevic Stainless Steel, cracking pipes and very good quality.
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guile
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Joined: 20 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: 12:37 - 07 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Mine is an 06 but I have seen even 12 models being affected, so they have done nothing to correct it.

Check out this long thread about it (sign-up required):

https://www.bikersoracle.com/er5/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=28

Hammering a smaller socket got another 2 out, so thanks for that advice. Now I have one stubborn nut left. 12mm socket seems to fit quite nicely but it just slips whenever I turn it. Can I just go mental with the 11mm? It doesn't want to go on with the hammering I have done so far but it is in a tight place where I probably havn't been hitting hard enough. Any reason not to get too rough with it?
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Dazbo666
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Joined: 06 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 14:20 - 07 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Had a similar problem with my '03 Bandit.
Eventually got the link pipe replaced, and the original silencer swapped with a Beowulf stubby can
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marlc0
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 22 Dec 2013
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 07 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
guile wrote:


Hammering a smaller socket got another 2 out, so thanks for that advice. Now I have one stubborn nut left. 12mm socket seems to fit quite nicely but it just slips whenever I turn it. Can I just go mental with the 11mm? It doesn't want to go on with the hammering I have done so far but it is in a tight place where I probably havn't been hitting hard enough. Any reason not to get too rough with it?


I think I used a 12mm socket on it, which isn't a normal size for standard metric, which is kinda the reason I remember it. I think.....

If you can get hold of an imperial socket set, or an old witworth set, try using an equivilant size, you'll find they are never a true equivilent, i've had a look at my metrinch socket set, and it uses 12mm&15/32, try something that size.

Or, are you using a bi-hex socket? If so, use a single hex, you get more grip, if you want to batter on a smaller socket, use a bi-hex, you get a little more "wriggle" with it.

Also, make sure when you're putting everything back together, use a bolt lube, such as coppaslip or molycote, it aids in torque, by reducing friction (only 10% of bolt load is "useful load") and aids in taking it out the next time, plus it'll help with reducing bolt corrosion.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 07 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
marlc0 wrote:
I think I used a 12mm socket on it, which isn't a normal size for standard metric, which is kinda the reason I remember it. I think..


Japanese have used 12mm over 13mm for decades specifically so 13mm and 1/2inch sockets aren't mixed in use.
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guile
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PostPosted: 16:52 - 08 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Managed to get it out by forcing a 11mm onto it.

I received 2 copper rings when I bought the Delkevic pipes but I don't know where they are supposed to go.

Is there any reason to hold onto the old pipes or just chuck them?
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andys675
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Joined: 08 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 08 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
they seal between the head and exhaust pipes, your old ones are probably black and squashed, have a scrape around the exhaust port to see if you can expose any copper coloured metal and you'll soon suss out how to remove them
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marlc0
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 22 Dec 2013
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PostPosted: 11:15 - 10 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
So, i've been doing a bit of ebay browsing, and have come up with the following

Delkevik pipes https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131053719971?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

An MTC can https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121219551359?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

And i think i'll need to this O2 sensor eliminator, will I?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260961309856?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Any thoughts?
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wots
World Chat Champion



Joined: 30 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 10 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
My Delkevic can (for sale Very Happy), has a piece on the link pipe for the o2 sensor, so eliminator is not needed (but I have one of those anyway).

EDIT: This, offers if interested. https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=286314
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