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Car engine oil in bikes?

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biggeeman
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PostPosted: 17:54 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Car engine oil in bikes? Reply with quote

Any ideas any one do it?
To cut a long story short bike has high oil consumption ( another story ).

10w50 for bikes is expensive a lot cheaper for cars and especially good for tops up as it being cheaper and i do a lot of topping up.

My mate runs a r1 on car oil with no probs i have a ktm vtwin i know the clutches can be a issue with car oil think its worth a go?
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 17:56 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could really of searched this, it's been done so many times.

Basically yes it's fine as long as it doesn't have any friction modifiers which can make your clutch slip
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biggeeman
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clutchy wrote:
You could really of searched this, it's been done so many times.

Basically yes it's fine as long as it doesn't have any friction modifiers which can make your clutch slip


Friction modifiers how would i know that cheers.
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Northern Monkey
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PostPosted: 18:06 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

biggeeman wrote:
Clutchy wrote:
You could really of searched this, it's been done so many times.

Basically yes it's fine as long as it doesn't have any friction modifiers which can make your clutch slip


Friction modifiers how would i know that cheers.


Expensive oils have them, and have phrases like 'fuel economy' written on the tub

Stick with the cheap semi-synth from Halfords, Asda, or Wilkinsons.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been putting car oil in countless bikes without a problem. My approach to oil is cheap oil changed often. As said, avoid anything that boasts of improving fuel economy. I got usually go for whatever generic semisynth is cheapest in my local motor factor.
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andym
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh.... Oh... does this mean there'll be a spate of 'do you nod', 'how fast have you gone', 'how to get a knee down', 'which tyres should I buy' threads? Razz
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Moo.
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go for it, whats the worst that could happen? This subject has been done to death and to be honest it all comes down to rider preference. I've been using car oil for ages and it works great! Only recently have i had a go at bike specific oil to try and cure an annoying gear problem with the bike to see if it would smooth it out.

It will protect the engine just the same and as stated, because its cheaper you can change it more often! Always a great way to prolong that engine Wink

Atleast with the oil consumption and you having to put more oil in, you'll know its getting more fresh oil haha!
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1cyl
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PostPosted: 20:33 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have in the past used car oil without problems.

But as I now own fairly expensive more modern engines, which I push fairly hard daily. I feel inclined to use the right syrup for the job just for peace of mind.

usually look for the JASO.
Here's a brief smattering of info:
https://www.oilspecifications.org/jaso.php
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Moo.
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go for it, whats the worst that could happen? This subject has been done to death and to be honest it all comes down to rider preference. I've been using car oil for ages and it works great! Only recently have i had a go at bike specific oil to try and cure an annoying gear problem with the bike to see if it would smooth it out.

It will protect the engine just the same and as stated, because its cheaper you can change it more often! Always a great way to prolong that engine Wink

Atleast with the oil consumption and you having to put more oil in, you'll know its getting more fresh oil haha!
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arry
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a data sheet somewhere with the additive pack data, tbn and tan of a lot of synthetic car oils. I'd love to get a bike oil analysed and see what the differences really are
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Robby
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

10W50 is a fairly unusual grade, so a 10W50 car oil is likely to be a high end one and will have a high probability of causing clutch slip.

Those of us that use car oil tend to buy cheap 10W40.

Why do you need 10W50?
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biggeeman
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
10W50 is a fairly unusual grade, so a 10W50 car oil is likely to be a high end one and will have a high probability of causing clutch slip.

Those of us that use car oil tend to buy cheap 10W40.

Why do you need 10W50?


Ktm recommends 10w50 and i think most vtwins are the same,
i think heavier oil may help my oil consumption.
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-Matt-
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a side note to whats been said already. My bike needs the wet clutch friendly oil (JASO-MA spec i think it is).

'Halfords motorcycle oil' as an example which ive used doesnt specify this on the minimally labeled tub. But i contacted comma who made/make? their oils and they confirmed all the oils they produce meet that requirement as standard, so may be more cheaper oils than it first appears that would be fine.
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gavbriggs
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

So which are these oils?

A search for: jaso ma/ma2 rated car oil just brings up loads of 4t oils.

What brands/grades can be used?
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biggeeman
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PostPosted: 22:33 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gavbriggs wrote:
So which are these oils?

A search for: jaso ma/ma2 rated car oil just brings up loads of 4t oils.

What brands/grades can be used?


I think its any cheap shit semi synthetics from asda or halfords my mate has the asda one blue tub £16 for 5 litres in a r1 with no clutch slipping but then again he would piss in it if it ran!
So i wanted this double checked think i will go buy this tomorrow.

https://m.direct.asda.com/ASDA-10W40-Semi-Synthetic-Oil---5L/001021119,default,pd.html
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 22:45 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Not had a problem with any I have used (including fully synthetic 5W40 car oil). Used a 10W40 BP oil for years, and then a 10W40 Rock Oil semi synthetic car oil.

A few people have had problems, and one that does crop up as causing issues is the Castrol Magnetec range (rather than normal GTX).

All the best

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gavbriggs
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PostPosted: 23:05 - 22 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be worth a good scout around and a sticky on car oils suitable for bikes? If someone can be arsed it will save a lot of cash
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arry
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PostPosted: 07:15 - 23 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just had a look at the data sheet off my phone so difficult to read but oils with high molybdenum content are in order of content levels:
Castrol RS 10w 60
Valvoline max life 10w 40
Castrol Magnatec
Mobil 1 motorsport 15w 50
Motul 20w 50

Other friction modifiers are available and may be present. And bear in mind the data here is just a limited number of oils tested.

Halfords motorsport 5w 50 has no molybdenum content when tested, nor does Carlube Triple R. Shell Helix and Valvoline Synpower appear to have very low levels.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 23 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

topic has been done to death, I currently use cheap halfords 10w40 which I stocked up on when they flogged it off dirt cheap, no problems at all
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 11:26 - 23 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

just my Penny Coin Penny Coin worth.

I used ASDA 10w40 in the ZZR at the last change. This year I might go for some morrisons - it's closer.
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 11:37 - 23 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clutchy wrote:
Basically yes it's fine as long as it doesn't have any friction modifiers which can make your clutch slip

This. I can't remember the last time I bought motorcycle specific oil, been using Halfords and Castrol GTX (NOT magnatec) when it's on offer in ASDA for years.
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biggeeman
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PostPosted: 12:22 - 23 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just done a oil change with asda brand 10w40 semi synth
Just gonna nip out n test heres hoping. Sad
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 12:52 - 23 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's fine, I've used that in the past too.
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biggeeman
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 23 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hahaha job done runs sweet as a nut £16 and ive got 1.5 litres left for top ups.
No probs with clutch either, still clutch wheelies as it did before Thumbs Up

Thats Asda price ching ching

https://m.direct.asda.com/ASDA-10W40-Semi-Synthetic-Oil---5L/001021119,default,pd.html

Cheers for the help.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 23 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

arry wrote:
Just had a look at the data sheet off my phone so difficult to read but oils with high molybdenum content are in order of content levels:
Castrol RS 10w 60
Valvoline max life 10w 40
Castrol Magnatec
Mobil 1 motorsport 15w 50
Motul 20w 50

Other friction modifiers are available and may be present. And bear in mind the data here is just a limited number of oils tested.

Halfords motorsport 5w 50 has no molybdenum content when tested, nor does Carlube Triple R. Shell Helix and Valvoline Synpower appear to have very low levels.


Molybdenum is not a way of determining friction modifier presence. More often than not they are organic compounds with no metallic elements. Mo is usually present as MoDTC, which does have a frictional effect, but is far from the only or most common one.
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