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Fork Pinch Bolt (Allen Head) truly fubared.

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iMark
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PostPosted: 17:31 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Fork Pinch Bolt (Allen Head) truly fubared. Reply with quote

https://i.imgur.com/88idr1B.jpg

So, the fork seals are shot and I have my MOT in just over a week and I can't get this bloody pinch bolt out...

Tried hammering progressively bigger torx bits in and it still won't turn (it's been done up way too tight, a lot more than the manufacturers recommended 20nm!)

Trying to turn it just strips it out further or the torx bit doesn't want to grip inside.

Tried hammering it with a big flat head screwdriver to break it loose and it's still not budging even after several good whacks with a hammer at an angle to knock it counter clockwise and still no luck.

Any ways onto my actual question
Would welding a nut on to the top of the pinch bolt work or is that just going to snap the head off it?
Or would I be better drilling the head off it and drilling a smaller hole in the actual thread once the head is off the bolt and forcing a another torx bit into the threaded part only?
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 17:33 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of the two will always be easier to undo.

If the one on the left is super tight, then the one on the right will be less tight. Unless you do them up at the same time.

Try tightening the one on the right a tiny bit, then give the left one another try.
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P.
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you not manage to get it out and MOT time comes round... fit some gaiters. Don't remove the forks, just cut plastic gaiters vertically, wrap around fork, compress and cable tie them top bottom and 2 in the middle.

Obviously you'll need to sort the seal but will buy you some time and keep you on the road
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........................
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PostPosted: 17:52 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd go for a left hand drill bit but then I've got a set. A worthwhile investment if you plan on working on bikes.
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iMark
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought some of these neoprene fork savers to do that Paddy, but I still need to take the forks off the bike to get them on which I don't have a yoke paddock stand for that, so I may resort to just laying the bike on it's side while I take the front end off the bike to get them on.

Obviously I don't want to leave the fork seals leaking though Smile


Tried tightening the other one, no avail, hammering it is just cutting the head off the bolt Laughing
https://i.imgur.com/q5VoWXR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Tpi9My5.jpg
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Last edited by iMark on 18:04 - 28 May 2014; edited 1 time in total
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P.
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got car jack? Block of wood under sump, jack up, axle stands under engine. Boom.

I'm too lazy to get full on stands to do so. Thumbs Up
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:03 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheBaldReverend wrote:
I'd go for a left hand drill bit but then I've got a set. A worthwhile investment if you plan on working on bikes.


They are through-bolted. A right hand drill will do the same job.

I'd apply penetrating oil to both sides of the bolt for a couple of days. Then I'd apply lots of direct heat to the alloy casting using a blowlampand try tapping it round with a hammer and punch or impact driver.

If I was going to drill it, I'd hacksaw the bolt in half from underneath. The "front" half of the clamp isn't threaded so that bit of bolt should come out. I'd then find a bit of metal tube that fits in the hole to use as a drill guide so it's dead square. Once you've drilled some way into it, I'd expect the drill bit to bite and screw the stub out through the back of the clamp.

EDIT: Hacksawing the dodgy one in half then simply clamping it together with one bolt and gluing a cut-down bolt head in the other hole to get it through the MOT would be an horriffic bodge that i simply could not condone. I would NEVER glue a bolt head to my bike in order to conceal a sheared, non-critical bolt from an MOT tester because you're only cheating yourself by doing such a thing.
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Last edited by stinkwheel on 18:07 - 28 May 2014; edited 2 times in total
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 18:03 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heat. Lots of heat..
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iMark
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PostPosted: 18:08 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wish I had a car jack Rolling Eyes

Kind of stuck with primitive techniques for this one..

Don't have any thing that can heat it up either Rolling Eyes the torch I had decided to stop working!

Using a normal RH drill bit from the wrong end makes a bit of sense Thumbs Up

Don't think I can hacksaw it from underneath stink, the bolt isn't fully exposed from underneath, half of it is still inside the alloy casting of the fork, but I have had WD40 sprayed on it from all angles a few days ago from the head, underneath and at the back.

Hammering it after trying to tighten the other bolt didn't work, I'm actually cutting off the head of the bolt trying to get it undone that way Sad


EDIT:
Wait a minute, I understand what you mean by hacksawing it now, cus of the grove in the actual pinch part of the fork Thumbs Up Karma
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:13 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

iMark wrote:


Don't think I can hacksaw it from underneath stink, the bolt isn't fully exposed from underneath, half of it is still inside the alloy casting of the fork, but I have had WD40 sprayed on it from all angles a few days ago from the head, underneath and at the back.


I mean hacksawing up through the "split" of the clamp. Then you only have half as much bolt to drill through compared to starting at the head. That split should go all the way up to the hole for the spindle.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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iMark
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PostPosted: 18:17 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I figured that out after reading it again and edited the post hehe Very Happy

Will give that a shot, dunno if I'll attempt that tonight though as it's starting to rain Thumbs Down
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SQL
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

lift dust seals and use a seal mate, if that doesn't work get to MOT station ten mins early then kitchen roll under the dust seal replace dust seal
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iMark
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PostPosted: 19:36 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pinch bolt no longer has the grip of death, Cut through it with a hacksaw blade... Only took about an hour cus of the tiny bit of movement I could do Rolling Eyes

So I should be able to get the axle nut thing off from that side now to get the fork seals done Thumbs Up

Will remove the rest of the bolt when I get chance, one pinch bolt is enough Mr. Green

Currently it's not letting me pull it out, it's just turning the hole , pliers won't grip it very well in that position so it can stay there for now!

Big thank you for that suggestion Stinkwheel Karma

https://i.imgur.com/ZDr7mBH.jpg
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

iMark wrote:
I am going to die on the way to the MOT station


EFA Thumbs Up
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iMark
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PostPosted: 21:04 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

both parts of the bolt are still in, the part with the head is turning but won't pull out with pliers, so I can't get a drill in to thread the other part out at the moment.

Will need to wait for daylight to remove it Smile
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget to tell the lawyers that it was Stinky who suggested that you hold everything together with Blu-Tack.
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1cyl
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad to see progress has been made Thumbs Up .
Perhaps now you could try and gingerly knock the tip of a sharp flat head in underneath the head of whats left of the bolt, for leaverage while attempting to wind it out.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know it needs to come out one day but id have borrowed a trolley jack and bit of wood to support the bike and just changed the fork seals with the wheel attached, drop the forks out the yokes and do what you need to do,
Gets you sorted safely for the MOT with no risks imo.
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iMark
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugeye_bob wrote:
I know it needs to come out one day but id have borrowed a trolley jack and bit of wood to support the bike and just changed the fork seals with the wheel attached, drop the forks out the yokes and do what you need to do,
Gets you sorted safely for the MOT with no risks imo.


There is a thing inside the forks that stops them over extending and ripping out the fork seals which is held at the bottom by a bolt underneath the fork above where the nut is that holds the axle in place on that fork so the pinch bolt needed to be removed to be able to replace the fork seals Smile

Else this would have been a lot easier Mr. Green
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

iMark wrote:
both parts of the bolt are still in, the part with the head is turning but won't pull out with pliers, so I can't get a drill in to thread the other part out at the moment.


Use an old cheap flat blade screw driver. Put the blade in the slot you have cut in the bolt and twist. Hopefully should push the head of the bolt out.

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raffles wrote:
Don't forget to tell the lawyers that it was Stinky who suggested that you hold everything together with Blu-Tack.

stinkwheel wrote:

Hacksawing the dodgy one in half then simply clamping it together with one bolt and gluing a cut-down bolt head in the other hole to get it through the MOT would be an horriffic bodge that i simply could not condone.


Wink
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merquis00
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PostPosted: 23:10 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Re: Fork Pinch Bolt (Allen Head) truly fubared. Reply with quote

iMark wrote:
https://i.imgur.com/88idr1B.jpg


https://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m4rkvlSocZ1qb8lzh.jpg
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