How would you stubby this can?

[Rogerborg]

Bought on a whim, a standard, dented end can with a welded on cap.

https://i57.tinypic.com/2cna8ts.jpg

Suggestions are welcome for re-attaching or replacing that end cap after stubbying it, or to be more precise, re-joining the cut exhaust at any point.

Hacksaw, angle grinder, riveter, silicone gloop, metal tape and patience is available and I don't give a stuff about how it looks, as long as it's more or less gas tight. The original will be going back on for MOTs and sale.

I don't plan to re-weld it to within fish finger of a sprocket as this is a DIY garage project for funsies. I mean, a stick welder is available but I can't weld thin sheet with it - I'm no BodyGuard.
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[Fisty]

As It is not a straight through can there will be much internal gubbins that will need re welding too.

I wouldnt bother, but I am lazy.
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[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

I also wouldn't bother. I don't really like stubby cans.
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[Rogerborg]

But if you were to bother...

To forestall the "Y U..." Zeitgeist, the whole thing including the bendy link pipe cost less than a separate new link pipe, so worst case I can just chop the can off, fit a slip on and still come out ahead of the game.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[nowhere.elysium]

Cut it at the other end of the can?
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[_Iain_]

I know how you lot like paint diagrams,

https://i.imgur.com/zSNUA9a.jpg

Dremel cut the edge of the weld.

Rip all the internals out, then there'll be nothing for the bolts to hit. Ought to be able to be done with nothing but a dremel, a big box of cutting discs and a drill w/8mm bit.

I'd probbabbly then bend the edge of the open can end inwards slightly to allow it to slot inside the weld line & grind the inside of the weld line out to allow the end cap to slot on. Would need dremel for this really, but it'd make for a much better seal.

If you took your time it might come out looking pretty decent.

Oh and before the screams of potato, moron etc, micron produced cans that were held together with a simmilar principle;

https://www.micronexhaust.com/store/images/01canistersend.jpg
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[kramdra]

Get a strip of stainless sheet to make a sleeve and rivet it together.

Stainless can also be braised, you need borax flux, any form of scrap brass rod and a torch. The link pipe and headers may get too hot but it would be fine on can.

Or find someone local with a welder. I have just bought stainless wire and argon, so plan to try similar myself soon.

[Fisty]

[_Iain_]

[Rogerborg]

I know the correct answer is "weld it together", but this is an experiment in bodging rather than in doing it right.

On that note...

[Fisty]

As the innards will look not too dissimilar to this

https://www.bikersoracle.com/jaws/myPictures/exhaust11.jpg

Without stripping the whole thing down you will need some mighty long drill bits to get through the internal baffles etc.

Potato.
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Fatter and faster than Fret

[Vincent]

Open it up first...whatever's inside will determine how to shorten it.

If welding's out, I'd go for a sleeve...pop-rivet it on with some type of seal, then cover it up with some carbon tube
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[_Iain_]

[Fisty]

[_Iain_]

[P.]

Wouldn't stubby, would just cut the end exit bit off and make the hole exceptionally wide at the end of the can.

[G]

First off, for loudness, you could just run with down pipes. *loud*
Then - going seriously bodgetastic, I'd be tempted to cut a section out of the middle, then got slots (alternating position on each half) around and see if you can slide one half inside the other.

Or just get a cheap one you can rivet instead.

[Robby]

You may well find a suitable epoxy, I doubt it's going above 250 celcius. It's likely that there's some sort of end cap inside the can so you could bolt through the one you remove and the inner end cap.

For a really quick, easy and ugly bodge you just wrap some metal around the cut with a smear of silicone and pop rivet it.

[G]

[gavcarter]

Looking at fistys pic, I would cut the end off with a hacksaw or very carefully with a grinder ( whichever you can get the straightest cut with...)

Then I would start to cut the sleeve of the can down bit by bit until you hit the metal plates visible in the pic

https://www.bikersoracle.com/jaws/myPictures/exhaust11.jpg

Pick a plate ( or a can length ) and finish the sleeve flush with this plate.

You can use high temp silicone etc between the plate and the outer sleeve to gas tight it - just finger it smooth with the end plate before it sets.

Put the end cap in place temporarily and mark the inner exhaust diameter on the end plate with a marker, and proceed to drill a lot of holes around its circumference. If you cant be bothered to dremel or file to a decent finish then make it 10mm bigger so it cant be seen through the end cap.

To replace end cap I would drill 3-4 holes in the end of it and bolt it to the plate inside the exhaust as the micron ones do.

If the cuts are nice and square and the weld is still in place you probably wont be able to tell its been done as the inside is gas-tights you wont get the tell-tale carbon streaks where its leaking.

If you want to GUT it totally the easiest way is to cut it at the base nice and square BEHIND the weld.
Pull the outer sleeve off, pull the packing out of the way and then chop off the pipe that is welded to the base of the can.

This should leave you with an empty can, and the base...

If you carefully inspect the base you should be able to carefully grind away enough weld ( and a small part of the outer skin that was left ) and have the outer sleeve push back on ( after cutting to desired length ).

A good smear of exhaust paste will ease the skin back on and also help to gas-seal it. Then go round with a drill and a riveter to keep it in place. I find it easiest to do 1 rivet - then one 180 degrees to that, then 2 at 90 so that you can pull the sleeve onto the base and keep it square, if you set off putting a river every inch or two one after the other its easier to mis-align the can

[Rogerborg]

Interesting stuff, thanks all.

It'll come down to what's actually inside the can which I won't know until I start hacking.

£38 delivered, by the way, and it costs £55 just for a new link pipe, so I'm not too fussed if I keep cutting until there's nothing left.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[Clanger]

Personally I'd give it to my mate Big Steve, and get him to sort it. Then when he's finished, I'd give it to my mate Grizz and get him to polish the fury out of it. Then I'd give it to my mate JD and get him to put it back on the bike...all this would cost me a bottle Southern Comfort - 'cos my mates love me...
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[Sload]

Cut it, gut it and have it re welded by someone that can for best results. Ill say Ians idea would work fine too, plenty of things retained with tie bars but as with anything the more effort you put in then generally the better the results
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[Rogerborg]

I don't want to gut it completely as I'm not sure if the GS runs closed loop (using the O² sensor) all the time, or if it goes to an open loop fixed mapping at high rpm / throttle, which is likely to run lean with a straight through pipe.

I'm only considering doing it at all since I'm mostly using it for a commute where it's barely off idle most of the time, and it's dangerously stealthy. It'd be the Hun in the sun, if we had sun up here.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike