Bolt stuck trying to remove front brake

[Mirey]

I'm trying to replace the front tyre on my YBR but I can't get the front brake off.

No matter how hard I try, it just won't budge. It looks like the bolt is starting to deform as well...

any ideas?

https://s10.postimg.org/iw58ojkft/bolt.jpg

[RhynoCZ]

WD40, hammer it a bit, then when using the wrench don't just turn it, give it the initial impact to break the tension. Also push on the bolt when using the wrench to prevent it from ruining the head.
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'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

Freeze and release?

Also use a proper hex socket, not one of the star type ones, it'll have far less chance of buggering the head.

It wouldn't surprise me if some nobber's used loads of locking compound on it to be fair.
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[c_dug]

A six sided socket should see that off without too much hassle and you can probably pick up an individual socket from any local tool place, or maybe halfords, for a couple of quid.

If I was really worried about it rounding I would combine the six sided socket with my Impact Driver There isn't much that that combination wont see undone. Certainly it should see a calliper bolt undone.

Don't even half consider putting it back in, buy yourself a replacement for about a fiver.
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[Ed Case]

The bolt is screwing into an alloy fork leg so be careful using a hammer, it's surprisingly easy to clout chunks off. A good tight-fitting socket is probably the best answer. Best of luck.

[jeddy11]

Get a set of these

https://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x232/jeddy11/td_394002_bg_expset_zpsd3aaa1f8.jpg
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[kramdra]

Bolt looks fucked, sockets not going to grip that. A chisel will - use hammer and chisel to tap it round. Waterpump pliers are also very good with rounded bolts.


Thread is on the calliper mounting bracket. You could always grind the head off, and waterpump pliers on the protruding 15mm thread.


Replace brake bolts with 12.9 grade BZP socket head bolts - they will not round off. Use blue threadlock - it does not add much to the undoing torque and also prevents corrosion.

[Taught2BCauti...]

Those Irwin Bolt Grips are awesome - I have lost most of mine now - but don't count on using the bolt again after using them!

Bolts with a large flange like that are always trouble - especially if someone has used too much Loctite on the threads, and some has got between the flange and the body.

I would try tapping the head of the bolt gently - left to right, up and down - to break the bond.

Try attaching some mole grips to the bolt head whilst heating the threaded part up with a hairdryer (a bit gay, but it works) then remove the mole grips and use the Irwins.

The mole grips act as a heat-sink, to stop the bolt getting too hot and expanding as well.
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[lihp]

Lol kramdra.

You moan about a Honda main dealers choice of parts and then you go on to give ridiculous and meaninglessly destructive advice.
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[kramdra]

One assumes that OP is using the correct size. metric, 6 sided socket to begin with. One also assumes he is also trying to turn it the correct way

[c_dug]

A six sided socket will grip it fine. Destructive methods are a last last resort. Don't touch a hacksaw, pipegrip or powertool of any sort until you've properly exhausted all other options.
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[Mirey]

I am using a six sided socket. Maybe not enough leverage. You can tell from where it's starting to wear that I'm turning it to the left.

I'll try those Irwin things.

I've tried WD40, it did sweet feck all.

[Taught2BCauti...]

[c_dug]

Interesting, since I bought my six sided set I've not had a rounded one yet that I couldn't get off.
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[Islander]

Apply heat to the bolt first. If there's threadlock on it, that'll break the seal. The six sided socket should undo it - if you've got an impact driver then use that with the socket.

There really shouldn't be any need for destructive tactics at this stage.

[kramdra]

Irwins are destructive, and as previously noted, the bolt has already been destructed. A chisel and hammer to tap it round is equally effective, less destructive and cheaper.

www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=m8+35+bzp+12.9&_sacat=0

35-40mm is the correct length for my bike, measure the old to be sure

c_dug... of the 9 bikes in your sig how may deadeded?

[thomp1983]

where are you maybe someone local can help?

[J4mes]

I normally try to tighten it first in order to break the seal, that way if it is bollocks tight and the tool slips you don't further damage the head on the edges you need to stay intact to undo it.

Shocking it can also help, so perhaps try a short ratchet handle and smack it with a mallet

[Raffles]

[J4mes]

If you Need a vehicle back on the road then a damaged £10 tool is the least of your worries.

And I've never killed any of mine doing it.

[Vincent]

I'd use a ring spanner on that...maybe with something on the end to give it a bit more leverage.

You sure there's not a locknut on the other end?
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[Vincent]

[CBRMAN94]

Am i the only one who is wondering why you need to take the front brake off for a tyre change? Spindle out, Wheel out, Tyre change and stick it back in
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[drbaig]

A lot of these issues happen because there is not enough leverage and a lot of force.

If I have trouble getting any bolts of these days I just go grab the breaker bar or a pipe to put over the ratchet. Every bolt comes off with ease. If only I had done this with the countless bolts I've rounded previously.
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[Suntan Sid]

As DrBaig says get a decent breaker bar and 6 sided socket!
Bagged myself a second hand 2.5ft breaker bar, at the market, years ago, it laughs at bolts like that!
If you still have trouble with the breaker bar get a friend to wallop the bar/socket while you've got pressure on the bolt, should shock it enough to get it moving.
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