Varadero 125 rejetting

[Varadero mikki]

hi

i have a honda varadero 125 v1, My exhaust rotted out, and my air filter had a hole init, so in my haste. I went out and got a venom full exhaust and a performance air filter. i have tried for weeks to get the carb set right but its having non of it. i can get it close but its still not how it was, i have been told it needs bigger main jets, so i have striped the carbs down and took out the main jets for the sizes. Mine has *82* in the front and *88* in the rear carb.

i have found new jets but i dont have a clue what sizes to replace the original ones as there are 25 different sizes. here's a link to show you guys


Honda XL 125 V1 Varadero 01 Carburettor - Main Jet Parts at Wemoto - The UK's No.1 On-Line Motorcycle Parts Retailer

if some one could help that would be great thanks

[davebike]

To do it properly you either need a Wide Band fuel air meter weld a fitting for the lamda senser into each down pipe and adjust each by guesswork / trial and error with lots of test rides with the test set up fitted

The WBFA meter is about £150 and a jet kit £100


Or take the bike to a Dyno centre and pay them to do it on the rolling road
about £250 possibly more
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Dave
NC750Xdct + others at work !
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[Varadero mikki]

There's no lamda sensor's on this model. And every kit requires drilling the carbs, which I am not a fan of doing, I have an air flow meter and know how to set the carbs up I just don't know what size of jet to replace the original ones.

[davebike]

No read what I wrote the lamda senser comes with the WBFAM kit
so you can tell how far out you cheap crap has put the fuelling

)
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Dave
NC750Xdct + others at work !
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[Taught2BCauti...]

Stick to the original jets - 82 front and 88 rear. Many people have tried to re-jet the Vara 125 carbs, but the original spec works best.

You also need to make sure the needle valves are the right way around too - front is marked "C12A", rear is marked "C12B" (if you don't stick to the original jet sizes, you will also need new needle valves to suit).

When setting up the carbs with a vacuum gauge, the rear cylinder needs to be setup 30mmHg (1.18"Hg) lower than the front at 1500 rpm.
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Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
www.TheFutureIsHere.eu

[smegballs]

Just do some plug chops OP and try to dial it in that way.

I tried to improve jetting on various bikes in the past, but always made it worse that stock, and never had the patience for a billion plug chops and incremental dialling in.

As such I'm now a firm believer in keeping shit to stock specs and trusting in the nice folks in the R&D department who doubtless invested far more time and effort into said engines fuelling than I ever would.

[iooi]

[motad_uk]

you have bought sensibly and bought from the uk- contact us and we will help!

01922 714700

with db eaters fitted the system is designed to run with standard jets

anyone trying to sell you a system that needs jetting or dyno work before using it is not selling you a road legal system or indeed a system that has been designed properly or at all

am always wary of "performance" air filters- if its one that takes off the original air box- my immediate recommendation is to refit the air box
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[bladerunner]

Old rule of thumb was if removing the airbox a 10% bigger main jet was a good starting point. With your setup I'd suggest just trying a single size bigger on each carb and see how you get on.the most important thing before you start rejetting /changing needle clip position and or air screw settings....is do one thing at a time and test it.
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Current bikes...cbr929, KDX200's, Rd125lc mk2, RGV250's

[wr6133]

The filter will have added more air to the mix making you run lean. To fix that you add more fuel by upjetting.

It's a fiddly boring process so if you can put the airbox back on.

If not then buy the size up, the 2 sizes up and three sizes up. Start with the size up and plug chop. If that's still lean then next one..... repeat until the mix is right

[motad_uk]

you do not need to rejet when fitting a Motad (or Venom ) system

my suggestion to refit the standard air box and filter and all will be well


there are several exhaust suppliers suggesting that dyno work, re-tuning etc is required after fitting- in my experience that is purely because of poor (or no) design and development on the bike!
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[iooi]

Sad, but par for the course that the OP has not come back with a update....

Guess advice was not what was wanted. As we all know non std airbox is about the same as a skybluepink powerband
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Just because my bike was A DIVVY, does not mean i am......

[motad_uk]

at least a skybluepink powerband looks colourfull!

taking off the standard airbox without loads of knowledge and testing is just bad
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[stevo as b4]

I don't think a lack of a std airbox is the evil work of satan that some people make it out to be. Yes carburation on many modern bikes will be totally screwed up, but that's what jet kits, and dyno time with a skilled operator/engine tuner are for.

As long as your not using very small and crap pod filters or squashed up against the frame rails foam filters, then sorting out a filterless bike can be done with enough work and hassle.

Big Ol air cooled naked four's look pretty good sometimes with huge open polished bell mouths. I know that people have tuned such bikes to carburate well by spending a lot of time on set up and use of a dyno.

BSD for example has set up many such bikes to run really well, but you have to expect some fairly major carburation changes and parts swapping to get a near ideal set up with an open intake.

[Scootaloo]

[qarka]

They usually connect on the inlet ports of the engine head itself. Below the carbs and on the actual engine. Depending on the bike you will have 4 blanking bolts/ 4 nipples or a mixture. The carb tune might come with nipples you can use.

https://www.thestraycat.net/images/Farkles/3&4_ports.jpg
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