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Hard starting CBR

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nleitao
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 26 Oct 2014
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PostPosted: 12:32 - 26 Oct 2014    Post subject: Hard starting CBR Reply with quote

Hey Guys, pretty nice community here Very Happy

Well i'm facing some starting issues with my Cbr125R from 2005
I bought it last week and i'm using it for commuting.
It has an Malossi cilinder, increasing his size to 166c, and also an aftermarket exhaust. Can't really identify it.

The main issue is a hard start.
All the week in the morning, i had almost a minute of continuous start button, every day, for it to go; that's terrible for the starter and for the battery. At 16:30h it starts almost well. She sleeps in a underground garage during the night and during the day is also in a closed garage at the work.
Yesterday i changed the spark plug for a new one although the old one sparks really nice; picture below of the old one. It has a standard gap of 0.7, and Malossi recommends 0.8 to 0.9. The measuring tool is already ordered to fine tune it.
Since when i choke it a tiny bit it's really worse i imagine the mixture is to rich, so i thought i would look for the air filter box to see how the air filter is; No air filter inside! Also already ordered.
In conversation with the guy from the spark plug shop, he suggested one of those start sprays. Bought one and i really notice a difference. it starts almost instantly compared with before.
I guess i have to open the Carb tomorrow and give him a cleanup, no air filter might put dirt inside, i'll change also the fuel filter, you never know and its really cheap.

Any other thoughts?

Picture and Youtube video below

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Yj5TUIREVrk/VExH9_capUI/AAAAAAAATlQ/t2IwDjgl3AM/w596-h805-no/IMG_20141025_092912.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSLawPk1jCs&list=PLRd9q9Uf0C6LnPZ1AHvIfVnWsZllx-64w
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monkeybiker
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PostPosted: 13:30 - 26 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you take out the spark plug and look at it then look for picture of spark plugs online. The condition of the plug will give you an idea if it is rich or lean.

With it having no air filter I would have thought it would be running lean. Or it's running very rich and the last owner took out the air filter to lean it out.

How to fix it? I have no idea Very Happy
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nleitao
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 26 Oct 2014
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PostPosted: 14:05 - 26 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp

Great source!

I would say my spark is like the Lead Fouling

Quote:
Lead fouling usually appears as yellowish brown deposits on the insulator nose. This can not be detected by a resitsance tester at room temperature. Lead compounds combine at different temperatures. Those formed at 370-470°C (700-790°F) having the greatest influence on lead resistance.
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 26 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm fairly sure poorly checked valve clearances could also cause this issue, how many miles has it done?



But yeah, clean carbs, replace filter and see where you are after that.
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nleitao
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 26 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

monkeybiker wrote:
Or it's running very rich and the last owner took out the air filter to lean it out.


Just wondering, if is that the case, shouldn't it had been adjusted in the carburetor? why take out the filter? it will make the carburetor need much more cleaning, or is there any other advantage in taking out the air filter?

Clutchy wrote:
I'm fairly sure poorly checked valve clearances could also cause this issue, how many miles has it done?



It clocks 5038 Km but the cylinder probably has less. Is a valve clearance check something easily done? does it requires a special tool?
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prawny1
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PostPosted: 00:03 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

is the bike fuel injected or carb?

if it is fuel injected then you are gonna be lean for sure and relying on the ecu for cold start enrichment. as I don't think they can be mapped.

There are probably fuel rail pressure mods and different injectors available for these bikes as well as "black box" type things to trick the ecu into over fuelling, but it is all going to get expensive for not a lot of gain.

far easier to start putting things back to standard.

Are you confident enough to check the cam timing? it might have been set wrong,

do you get any fault light? are all the sensors plugged in?
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nleitao
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PostPosted: 00:24 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

prawny1 wrote:
is the bike fuel injected or carb?

Carburetor


prawny1 wrote:
far easier to start putting things back to standard.

Agree, thats my idea Very Happy a fresh start, with all the maintenance made new, even if past owner said he made service by himself 500km ago.

prawny1 wrote:
Are you confident enough to check the cam timing? it might have been set wrong

I'm confident enough to make full maintenance to the engine, what i don't know, i'll learn before mess with Very Happy
I'm confident enough to check if the marks are aligned, trying to fix it if they are not i'll have to learn a bit more Embarassed

prawny1 wrote:
do you get any fault light?

Nop

prawny1 wrote:
are all the sensors plugged in?

I found that the heating needle doesn't go up, it's on my to do list
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prawny1
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PostPosted: 00:41 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

heating needle = temperature gauge?

with a carb you will want to check your pilot mixture settings (may well be electronically controlled on a newish bike) and check for air leaks around the manifold or disconnected pipework.

Does the bike have a manual choke for cold starting? perhaps the cable is broken or slack.
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 01:25 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's probably jetted wrong. You've increased the capacity by 30%, so probably need both mains and pilots to compensate.
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nleitao
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

prawny1 wrote:
heating needle = temperature gauge?

Yes, sorry wasn't remembering the english word Smile
Just had a quick look on it and what i found strange is the fact of the radiator is dry, i open the top and is dry, i take out the sensor, also dry... shouldn't i had refrigeration liquid there? the compensation deposit is slightly above the maximum and i can ear liquid moving in it with the engine running.

prawny1 wrote:
with a carb you will want to check your pilot mixture settings (may well be electronically controlled on a newish bike) and check for air leaks around the manifold or disconnected pipework.

Pipework is ok, just checked it now

prawny1 wrote:
Does the bike have a manual choke for cold starting? perhaps the cable is broken or slack.

It does have and its ok, but i can't touch it, if i do, it will stop the engine if its running or not turn when in off state...

mattsprattuk wrote:
It's probably jetted wrong. You've increased the capacity by 30%, so probably need both mains and pilots to compensate.

I just came from opening the carburetor, it was the cleanest i ever seen! ( maybe a only had seen one other a few years ago, but the main idea is that it was really clean.) Also is a diaphragm type.

When i arrive from a ride the RPM settles steady on 3000 i reduced it now to around 2000 on the carburetor knob that stretches the gas cable.
The jets have been messed, you can clearly see someone used a wrong size screwdriver to adjust them, but i don't know the correct setting for them, also can't really find a workshop manual and a Haynes manual links for this specific model...

I'm almost sure the problem is in the mixture, just can't sort it out how to tune it...

The fact of choke it a tiny bit would suggest me that the mixture is too rich. the spark is slightly dark, also suggests the same, the previous owner took out the air filter, probably to increase the air flow, suggesting its too rich also...

Time to dive on youtube to see if i find a cbr125 carburetor tune...
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a range of jets and set the carb up properly that plug looks black it should be more a nice chocolaty brown. I'm guessing the previous owner just tossed in a bigger jet, realised it was way too rich so then removed the filter to compensate, still had issues and instead of trying some smaller jets just sold it to you.
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prawny1
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PostPosted: 14:47 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

your cooling system should be full too, lack of coolant suggests a leak, a faulty water pump or head gasket issue.

the expansion bottle is only an overflow /reserve tank for the main system.

When the coolant gets hot it expands and the radiator cap allows the excess pressure to escape preventing blown pipework and splits in the radiator, when the bike cools down again the coolant creates a negative pressure drawing the fluid back from the expansion tank.

The jetting can only be altered by physically replacing the jets or enlarging the hole in the centre with micro drill bits (only good if you are running lean as you can't make the hole smaller this way), the numbers on the jets tell you the flow rate, higher number = higher flow.

Different jet makers use different sizing schemes so the numbers may not match between brands.

To adjust the idle mixture you will have a small screw with a tapered end and a spring with a small washer and o ring beneath it for sealing.

Usually somewhere towards the front of the carb by the inlet manifold, screwing this in will weaken/lean the mixture screwing it out will richen it up,

but like I said some bikes have an electronically controlled idle mixture that will be controlled by the engine temperature circuit (cold = richer warm = leaner).


Your plug being black suggests rich running but the fact you need easy start spray suggests you are lean.

Perhaps you are lean low rpm but rich high rpm,

try turning the idle mixture screw all the way in then back out 2.5 turns and drop the diaphragm needle down by raising the little clipone slot at a time and see what your plug colour does.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 14:58 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few points,

Don't hold the starter you shouldn't use it for more than a few seconds at a time.
Does it start ok with the spray?

By the sounds of it the carb isn't set right.

First off once it is warmed up and running take it out for a blast and see how it feels open the throttle fully and gradually reduce how it is opened. If it feels like it gets faster when you come off the throttle, you probably need a bigger main jet.
There is no point trying to set the rest of the carb untill you have the main jet sorted.

I've recently set up a carb for an old triumph using this.
https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/monobloc-how-to-tune-up

It is written for than specific carb, but applies to all cabrs.
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nleitao
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 26 Oct 2014
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You guys are great, I really appreciate the help. When I arrive home I'll digest this new info. Smile

Thanks again
Nuno
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nleitao
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

prawny1 wrote:
your cooling system should be full too, lack of coolant suggests a leak, a faulty water pump or head gasket issue.

the expansion bottle is only an overflow /reserve tank for the main system.

When the coolant gets hot it expands and the radiator cap allows the excess pressure to escape preventing blown pipework and splits in the radiator, when the bike cools down again the coolant creates a negative pressure drawing the fluid back from the expansion tank.


Really clear explanation. Well i didn't had cooling liquid at hand so i grabbed distilled water. it's better than be dried and saturday i'll dry all the system and put new liquid. I had just opened the radiator lid on the top and filled in with the distilled water. Let's see if i find water on the floor tomorrow morning. Faulty water pump doesn't seem to be the problem, since i gave start button for a second with the lid open and it spitted a nice gulf of water out.

prawny1 wrote:
The jetting can only be altered by physically replacing the jets or enlarging the hole in the centre with micro drill bits (only good if you are running lean as you can't make the hole smaller this way), the numbers on the jets tell you the flow rate, higher number = higher flow.

Different jet makers use different sizing schemes so the numbers may not match between brands.

physically replace the jets seems the way to go... Do you guys have a brand suggestion, or is there some kind of kit with different sizes to tune it up?

prawny1 wrote:
To adjust the idle mixture you will have a small screw with a tapered end and a spring with a small washer and o ring beneath it for sealing.

Usually somewhere towards the front of the carb by the inlet manifold, screwing this in will weaken/lean the mixture screwing it out will richen it up,

but like I said some bikes have an electronically controlled idle mixture that will be controlled by the engine temperature circuit (cold = richer warm = leaner).


Your plug being black suggests rich running but the fact you need easy start spray suggests you are lean.

Perhaps you are lean low rpm but rich high rpm,

try turning the idle mixture screw all the way in then back out 2.5 turns and drop the diaphragm needle down by raising the little clip one slot at a time and see what your plug colour does.



https://screencast.com/t/RpvqD7ZEaSn

I would guess this is the screw that makes the mixtures richer / leaner?



Well, this is important, but not the most important for the moment. In this moment the bike is not starting due to a short circuit somewhere in the start circuit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XducdmEM0LI&feature=em-upload_owner

I turn the key on, everything good. in the moment i press the start button i ear the start relay on/off/on/off real quick and loud. the start engine don't run. this happened after i gave a quick start with the radiator open to check it out if the water pump was running. Apparently some water jumped to somewhere it shouldn't.
i'm really becoming discouraged, when i sort out something, other something shows up... and i did bought the motorcycle with less than 5000 kms on the clock trying to avoid this... ahhh life sucks, but i have to sort out all now; tomorrow is other day.
The bike started with bump start but i let it go down, never started again on the next 3 tries to pull it down to the building garage.

Also this afternoon, noticed that after the carburetor assembly, and in desaceleration, it was making very small afterburners in the exaust.

TODO list by priority order

- Sort out the short circuit in the start circuit Maybe the start engine is gone? it had a tough time before i got the start spray. after i had it never had more than 5 seconds pressed down.
- Sort out why the radiator was dry / temperature gauge not working
- Put the air filter in the box, adjust if possible the mixture
- Sort out the Jetters
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 23:54 - 27 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

That click can just mean the battery is flat.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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nleitao
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PostPosted: 16:42 - 28 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
That click can just mean the battery is flat.


Yeap, but since I connected the cables from my car's battery and the end was the same i can only think that something that is in the start line is in short circuit...
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iooi
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PostPosted: 16:57 - 28 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

nleitao wrote:
Faulty water pump doesn't seem to be the problem, since i gave start button for a second with the lid open and it spitted a nice gulf of water out.


That should not happen......

That sound more like the system is getting pressure it should not....

All removing the rad cap should do is reduce the boiling point of the fluid as its no longer under pressure (hence why you do not remove it when its hot)
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 17:08 - 28 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

nleitao wrote:
chris-red wrote:
That click can just mean the battery is flat.


Yeap, but since I connected the cables from my car's battery and the end was the same i can only think that something that is in the start line is in short circuit...


Put 12v direct the to the starter to rule out a problem with the motor, that click is the solenoid which is the last stop before the motor. Other things to try would be side stand switch and clutch switch as these can cut out starting although in neutral it shouldn't.

If you wanted to avoid issues, you DEFINITELY shouldn't have bought a tuned up 125. Laughing
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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nleitao
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Joined: 26 Oct 2014
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PostPosted: 20:14 - 28 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

iooi wrote:
That should not happen......

That sound more like the system is getting pressure it should not....

All removing the rad cap should do is reduce the boiling point of the fluid as its no longer under pressure (hence why you do not remove it when its hot)

humm, next step, change all water hoses...

chris-red wrote:

Put 12v direct the to the starter to rule out a problem with the motor

Stuck, no start. Will remove it in half an hour...

chris-red wrote:
If you wanted to avoid issues, you DEFINITELY shouldn't have bought a tuned up 125. Laughing

Couldn't resist a 4800 km tuned bike, of course if i knew all this troubles i wouldn't bought it. in the end, or it dont have the 4800 km the that it shows, or it has been really bad cared...
But in the end i like this search and fix it. i'm only disappointed because now its not running and i need it to commute to work...
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prawny1
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 28 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

next step should be a cooling system pressure test or have the radiator tested with a gas sniffer to see if you are getting products of combustion in the cooling system.

It is starting to sound like the bike has a head gasket failure (or wrong head/gasket for the big bore kit)

A lean running bike or one with an intake air leak will pop a little on the over run.
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nleitao
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 28 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

prawny1 wrote:
A lean running bike or one with an intake air leak will pop a little on the over run.

What you mean with pop a little?
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nleitao
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 28 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Starter removed, opened, cleaned and closed. it's running. Tomorrow it's going to it's place.
Took the advantage that tomorrow I'll not run the bike and bringed the battery with me, it will spend the night and tomorrow's day charging to be sure it's ok for tomorrow's evening tests.
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prawny1
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 28 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

nleitao wrote:

What you mean with pop a little?


Backfire or what you describe as "small afterburner"
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nleitao
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 28 Oct 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

prawny1 wrote:
It is starting to sound like the bike has a head gasket failure (or wrong head/gasket for the big bore kit)

Shouldn't I had white smoke on the exhaust exit if was that the case?
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