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Helicoil/Timesert Help needed.

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Moo.
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 07 Jul 2015    Post subject: Helicoil/Timesert Help needed. Reply with quote

So, bought a Suzuki DR600 and previously one of the exhaust studs had snapped and has been drilled out with a M7.5 drill bit. I want to fit a Helicoil in there, but unsure what size helicoil i need.. (Also need to find the right pitch for the exhaust stud..) Anyone know what size helicoil would fit?

Or, do i just tap the hole out to M8?
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 07 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

M8 tap stick an 8mm stud in it. Should be a 6.8mm hole but there should be enough meat there to get an exhaust stud to bite.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 07 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The tapping size for a M8 x 1.25 roll tap (a.k.a thread forming tap) is 7.5mm.

Buy a roll tap and put a full M8 thread in it.

https://www.guhring.com/documents/tech/charts/formtapdrill.pdf

This WON'T work if the hole has wandered off the stud and some of the steel stud is in the hole.
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Moo.
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 07 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
The tapping size for a M8 x 1.25 roll tap (a.k.a thread forming tap) is 7.5mm.

Buy a roll tap and put a full M8 thread in it.

https://www.guhring.com/documents/tech/charts/formtapdrill.pdf

This WON'T work if the hole has wandered off the stud and some of the steel stud is in the hole.


Like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/F-choice-of-M2-5-M3-M3-5-M4-M5-M6-M7-M8-HSS-Quality-FLUTELESS-ROLL-forming-TAP-/181149978009?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item2a2d614d99

The hole looks clean and straight, i stuck a 7.5mm drill bit into it and its solid.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 07 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, like that. M8 x 1.25. Use copious amounts of lube.

Will the M8 clear through the hole in the pipe clamp?
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Moo.
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PostPosted: 21:40 - 07 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Yes, like that. M8 x 1.25. Use copious amounts of lube.

Will the M8 clear through the hole in the pipe clamp?


The hole in the clamp has also been drilled to 7.5mm and theres still a fair bit of meat, so i'm guessing drilling it to 8mm will be painless..
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 07 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Moo. wrote:
Pete. wrote:
Yes, like that. M8 x 1.25. Use copious amounts of lube.

Will the M8 clear through the hole in the pipe clamp?


The hole in the clamp has also been drilled to 7.5mm and theres still a fair bit of meat, so i'm guessing drilling it to 8mm will be painless..



Noooo!
Dont drill it any more
It sounds ready for an 8mm tap as it is
I'd remove the clamp and downpipe first too
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Moo.
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 07 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:



Noooo!
Dont drill it any more
It sounds ready for an 8mm tap as it is
I'd remove the clamp and downpipe first too


The whole engines coming apart Sad to get rid off all the gasket sealant used and put new gaskets on..
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 07 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, probably why the hole is straight then Smile

Roll taps are unforgiving. They form the thread by moving the metal rather than removing it. They use a special high-pressure lube to keep the flanks of the tap from friction-welding to the metal. The best I can think of is to use EP90 oil (Extreme Pressure) as a tapping lubricant. If it starts creaking back out and add more oil.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 07 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:

Noooo!
Dont drill it any more
It sounds ready for an 8mm tap as it is
I'd remove the clamp and downpipe first too


The clamp need drilling for M8 clearance.
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Moo.
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PostPosted: 06:12 - 08 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Pete. I've got some EP90 gear oil I can use, I'm guessing it operates like a normal tap? But its going to be alot harder..
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davebike
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PostPosted: 09:12 - 08 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tapping size for M8 1.25 is 6.25 to 6.5mm 7mm is just about do able but 7.5 will give a rather loose thread but may get away with it I no go there

thread depth is 1/2 the pitch thread is on both sides so subtract Pitch from size add a bit for Clarence for tapping size
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 08 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Moo. wrote:
I'm guessing it operates like a normal tap?


Same but different!
Roll taps can form a thread in one single operation. It's not necessary to keep 'backing' the tap out to break off chips, as none are produced. It is, though, imperative that the tap is kept in line with the hole. Unlike a straight flute hand tap, if slightly crooked, it isn't able to carve it's way through.
Be very much careful. You wouldn't want to have to remove a snapped one.
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Aff
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PostPosted: 11:31 - 08 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Using a form tap seems like a bit of a faff.

I would just drill both the head and the clamp out to 8.3 and put an M8 Helicoil in there.

You need to drill the clearance anyway.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:28 - 08 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

davebike wrote:
Tapping size for M8 1.25 is 6.25 to 6.5mm 7mm is just about do able but 7.5 will give a rather loose thread but may get away with it I no go there

thread depth is 1/2 the pitch thread is on both sides so subtract Pitch from size add a bit for Clarence for tapping size


Not for a roll tap it isn't...
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