Sticky Rear Drum Brake

[jonpod]

Amateur, so bare with me.

Rear brake has started sticking a bit on the 2010 YBR125. I have adjusted the pedal with the screw at the back, and it doesn't seem to make a difference.

Even when the pedal is being pulled upwards, the rear seems to stick a bit.

Any ideas what it could be before I go and get milked by a mechanic at a garage?

Thanks!
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Take 1: CBR125R > Theory Done > Expired
Take 2: YBR125 > Theory Done > DAS Passed
London Commuter

[bikenut]

safety critical........

you have good tools and an area to work in??

Find your bike on cmsnl for the exploded views.....they will help you.

you have a manual??

but first, some maintenance spray on the brake rod ( connected to the foot pedal ) , and the smaller arm that goes onto a shaft that goes into the brake back plate, it may be stiff and need a service ( which it should have been getting form you, little and often on bikes dude ).

I wonder how the chain is??!

if it moves, lubricate it, apart from brake friction material that is.

don't forget to lub the brake pedal as well.

if still no joy, come back with some pictures. :karma:
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nuts about bikes

[bladeblaster]

I did the brakes on my sons YBR125, the cause of the sticking back break was the brake actuator spindle being corroded into the hub.

Easy to solve, if you are competent enough to work on your own brakes.

Disconnect the operating mechanism from the actuator use a pair of mole grips, screwdriver, spanner, anything that works to turn the actuator so that the pads are fully disengaged. Remove rear wheel, remove hub, press out the actuator, might need a few good taps with a hammer if you don't have access to a fly press or similar. Clean up the actuator and the hole if fits into, grease, pop actuator back in, and reassemble.

About an hour long job if doing it at home, a decent mechanic in a workshop should be able to do it easily for an hours labour and no parts cost.

[Pete.]

Undo the adjusting cam nut and release the rod from the trunion. Now try to move the lever on the brake hub by hand. If it is stiff you need to remove the wheel and strip out the pivot because it's probably seizing from corrosion and lack of lubrication.

If the lever moves smoothly but then sticks in one spot again strip off the hub and inspect the wear plates on the end of the brake shoes. They should be smooth but sometimes you get ridges worn in them and it makes the cam catch in the ridge and locks the brake on. The cure is either to file the plates to get rid of the ridge, or simply to switch the shoes over so that the cam now acts on a fresh bit of the shoe.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[stinkwheel]

You might find this howto I wrote a few years back handy:
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=174773
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Vincent]

9 times out of 10 it's the cam that's not moving freely in the brake hub. Brake dust gets in there and dries out any lube that hasn't been flushed away by rain water.
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Space Is Deep