Chain Tension and Brake questions.

[Gazz]

Two quick questions for you.

Was out this afternoon cleaning and lubing the chain and noticed that the small plate on the left side of the swingarm was moving about a bit.

How could this have occurred ?

Also noticed that the chain seems a bit loose. I cannot seem to get the tension correct (or what I deem to be correct). This is first dirtbike that I have owned and I have posted a couple of times regarding the tension of the chain. The manufacturer states that it should be 5-6cm of play measured from the bottom. Other people say that 3 fingers between the top of the swingarm and the chain are correct.

The last time I tightened the chain I took the tension to 5cm but I feel that you can pull the chain away from the sprocket far too easily and I worry that it is going to come off.

The chain seems to have slacked off slightly to around 6cm now which is making my worries slightly worse, especially with the moving plate.

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/12187748_10153662009982768_4508619753713919280_n.jpg?oh=84dab07c0deffdb628cf4dde02a79ccd&oe=56B5576D

And my next question is:

I found this marking on the brake drum and I was wondering what it means exactly. Obviously it is to show how worn the shoes are on the inside, but I cannot work out when this point is reached.

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/12189147_10153662009367768_7869066540588912203_n.jpg?oh=042fed202f9b40d326a192b2fc837c62&oe=56B788F6

[MCN]

The plate is only there to allow the chain to be adjusted to the setting (as per OEM). Once the correct slack/tension is set the axle/pivot bolt nut is tightened to the OEM torque. If everything is clean and no shit trapped between mating surfaces then the bolt/nut torque holds the pivot in position until next adjustment/wheel removal etc.
Pull it apart.
Clean all the pivot parts washers, spacers in parrafin/brake cleaner/Jizer/Petrol woteva and re-assemble.
Put a smear of anti-seize on the mating parts and torque it to the correct torque. I haven't torqued a pivot bolt in donkeys and not had any come slack. But I have enough experience of what is tight and what isn't.

As for the brake adjustment, as you move the wheel position the brake rod length changes. Adjust the chain. and then adjust the brake.

It helps to have a lock nut on those adjuster nuts too. (And a bit of anti-seize ) They may be self-locking nuts but the nut locking device and threads can wear out over the years or if made of pasta and can slacken off for no reason. For those sort of areas belt and braces is the norm.

for the excepshonal photos too.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[someotherguy]

[MCN]

[Vincent]

In your second pic, behind the brake arm, between it and the brake plate, should be a washer with a pointer on which lines up with the indicator marks on the plate.......it's not there. No biggie as the brake arms get removed and no longer line up anyhow. Brake drums should be removed and the shoes checked and cleaned up every 6 months or so anyway. Your adjuster plate may be loose as the wheel is moving when you tighten it up.
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Space Is Deep

[Raffles]

[MCN]

[Raffles]

[talkToTheHat]

Try pulling the chain away from the back of the rear sprocket. If you can see daylight between chain and soproclet the chain is worn out. Try also measuring the distance between links if the wear limit for this is known.

When you adjust the chain, jam the shaft of a screwdriver between chain and sprocket so the wheel is pulled hard against the adjusters before you tighten the spindle.
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Bandit. does. everything.