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pls reccomend me a good stud extractor..

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Kaya75
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PostPosted: 14:54 - 04 Apr 2016    Post subject: pls reccomend me a good stud extractor.. Reply with quote

Quick question, bandit 600 k1 header studs.. blah blah.

So two have gone the middle two as expected and the right-hand middle bottom will probably join them.

What's a good stud extractor?

No welder available and they are stainless bolts..

Cheers all Thumbs Up
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 04 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the head off the block?

If you can get at the stumps easily:

Make a template using the studs as is. Or you can use the manifold.

Cut the studs flat.

Mark the stud centres using your template or the manifold.
Tip:
Use a drill the same size as the holes in the manifold to drill some centre holes in the studs using the manifold as a guide.

If the studs are SS then they will be difficult to drill using 'normal' HSS bits.
I use this method regularly for fcuked up 'hard' stuff.

Sharpen the Carbide Inserts of a masonry bit to put a leading edge on each insert. They come with edges suited to percussion so will struggle to cut steel in a drilling machine.

Use the modificated masonry bit to drill out the old studs.

You will also need to buy a set of metric taps M8 or M10 not sure but not too expensive if you find a pound shop. Near enough for home use.

It is a better job when you have your head tightened in a vice so you can control the angle of dangle more precisely.

Do not drill too deep as you may punch through into the water jacket. Shocked
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 04 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stud extractors will likely shear off in stainless, leaving you double fucked. Cobalt drill bits, patience, luck and an M8 helicoil kit.
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Keir
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PostPosted: 16:05 - 04 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

when my old fazer studs snapped leaving abou 8mm of stud exposed i used THESE. They work on quite a fine tolerance so make sure you have the right size for your stud. go slow and steady!
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Previous: '99 Honda CBR 600FX, 03 ZX636 B1H, 99 Fazer 600 (red), 02 GSX-R 600 K2, 00 SV650s (red), 2008 ZX10R, 97 Bandit 1200N, 04 ZX6RR K1H, 04 GSX-R 1000, 98 Fazer 600 (gold), 05 Madness 110 Pit bike, 04 CR125R, 00 SV650s (black), 06 KTM 625 SMC, 99 SRAD 600 track bike, 03 SV650, 98 Bandit 1200N, Bandit 600SY, 03 GSX-R 600 K3, 01 GSX-R 600, 01 Fazer 600 (black), VFR 400 NC30 x3, 78 Honda Dream, 00 Speedfight 50
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Kaya75
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PostPosted: 19:45 - 04 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all,

Tried the big fuk off laser extractor... Which left me doubly fuked had they just sheared flush to the block.. happy daze.

So has my doctor just said, if yer snapped em twice, they anit lovin drill the fukers..dont use flutted extractors these will snap then it's down to the machine shop..

So I'll be drilling slowly - engine in still in situ, I should be good tho, cobolt bits from 2mm up and up till they collapse.. GO SLOW..

it I fuk it, and I just had my drillling licence revoked!! I'll be getting masonry bits and insert. Good tip about masonary bits, nice.

And about depth i'll tape the bits..

Here is a pic of the snaping good fun..

See what tommorrow brings Thumbs Up
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Kaya75
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 04 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the plus side, changing the oil filter should be a piece of piss Smile
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Kaya75
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PostPosted: 19:50 - 04 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the plus side, changing the oil filter should be a piece of piss Smile
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 04 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a few of each size of the cobalt drills, they don't stay sharp for that long. Think i went up 2mm, 4mm, 6mm then used the drill from the m8 helicoil.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 04 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's not clear to you SS work hardens to bastirt hard if it get too much heat in it from friction. Slow RPMs and feed speed. Keep the drill bit sharp. And have some oil as lube/coolant.

Jobs nearly done for you now.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 21:22 - 04 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd suggest once you get to 6mm use a left hand twist drill bit and drill in reverse as it were.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 22:49 - 04 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

In future this type works pretty well.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/Odds%20and%20ends/20160404_233436.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/Odds%20and%20ends/20160404_233425.jpg
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 05:49 - 05 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bandit exhaust bolts are notorious for snapping in the middle. Personally I think it's down to the stainless losing it's properties.

Anyway, here's how I tackled it. You can buy the drill bushings quite cheaply if you haven't the facility to make them

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=260458
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Kaya75
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PostPosted: 23:11 - 05 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers all,

Bit behind today, had to pick up the rear master cylinder rebuild kit ( the fun never ends Very Happy ) - the TV broke has I steamed it this morning boiling the kettle dry and I had to drop of the exhurst to the welder.

Quality result at the welder tho, phoned a few more this morning found a old school machine shop, drop it off as it is, no grinding and prep req, pick it up in two days when it will be fully stainless after a couple of hours work, cost £40 :up

I picked up the drill bits and and a couple of helicoils and 8 A2 header bolts from the fasteners shed next to the welders, gotto love ins estates, less then 20 quid for the bag inc selection of Colbolt bits, A note here, the helicoils are about a quarter of the length of the bolt ( or set screw I guess).. It's gonna be a bitch to center the drill and to align the angle I have no idea how I'm gonna to replicate a precision engneering tool shop while laying on my back giving myself neck strain tho.. But hey oh let's go drill...

Once I've replaced the steamed TV in the morning I'll get on with it.. I may rebuild the cylinder first depending on the weather.. Pic of fuked head to follow shortly.. Rolling Eyes

Now I'm gonna study peters awesome post Thumbs Up
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Kaya75
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 05 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Bandit exhaust bolts are notorious for snapping in the middle. Personally I think it's down to the stainless losing it's properties.

Anyway, here's how I tackled it. You can buy the drill bushings quite cheaply if you haven't the facility to make them

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=260458


Awesome, wish I'd found these before I'd twisted them off flush with stud extractor and my stupidity.. Has my mate said last night, if it's snapped once it'll just snap again..

Thanks all Thumbs Up
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 05:38 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kaya75 wrote:
A note here, the helicoils are about a quarter of the length of the bolt ( or set screw I guess).. It's gonna be a bitch to center the drill and to align the angle I have no idea how I'm gonna to replicate a precision engneering tool shop while laying on my back giving myself neck strain tho.. But hey oh let's go drill...


Centre-punch the stud for a start point then offer up the drill. When you have it in your starting position put a credit card or something similar piece of card up against it to give you a visual guide. Do that from 2 directions at 90 degrees from each other to get it square. Helps if you have someone helping but you can do it alone.

BTW helicoil lengths are specified by a D number. You can have 1D, 1.5D, 2D etc where the length is the multiple of the diameter. Normally a fastener would have 1.5D of engagement in a bike casing so a 8mm bolt would have 1.5D or 12mm of thread.
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