FFS...ALMOST fixed: leaky nipple? (Yam Tracer)

[Tracer1234]

Right, so first off, I am well aware of the extreme newbness of these question.

So, my main riding experience of a bog boy bike, has been the street triple.

I am now riding the 900 Tracer. I have been riding along quite happily without any issues. Yesterday, when riding on the motorway, at slight kitten killing speeds, although not too high, when coming off the throttle, I noticed a high level of what I assume is engine braking. I was a little surprised by how much. So in playing on the bike at different speeds, I have become worried that the engine braking may be too much, although at lower speeds, I do not notice the issue. So I began to wonder if my brakes were actually dragging, after a ride, with very little rear brake use, I stopped and felt the disk, and noticed that it was hot to touch.

TL;DR
What does normal engine braking feel like at, say 80?
How do I tell if the back brake is rubbing?
Is it normal for the disk to get hot.
When on the Centre stand, how free should the wheel be to move?

I am sorry for the stupid questions.

TYIA.
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Riding: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer Occasionally Riding: 08 Suzuki SV650, Potato: 2011 Yamaha YBR Custom.
Used to ride: 2015 Yamaha MT-09 Tracer (smidsy) 09 Triumph Street Triple (P/X'd) 08 Yamaha YBR (Sold)
CBT 04/14. A: Mod 1 & 2 13/04/15

[Evil Hans]

Is this a question about brakes?
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Triumph Sprint ST 1050. And it's Red.

[Tracer1234]

[jaffa90]

Ride the bike only using the front brake and then feel the back disc, also visa-versa. An unused brake disc should not feel hot.

[arry]

You're going to have to clean the caliper up at some point; may as well just make it now and put your mind at ease - best way of telling either you've a sticky piston is to go actually move that piston.

[Tracer1234]

Piston cleaned and piston moves...

It may be a case of not knowing what is normal. How freely should the rear wheel spin when on centre stand?

How should normal engineering braking feel?

Anyone local want a quick ride and tell me what they think?
____________________
Riding: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer Occasionally Riding: 08 Suzuki SV650, Potato: 2011 Yamaha YBR Custom.
Used to ride: 2015 Yamaha MT-09 Tracer (smidsy) 09 Triumph Street Triple (P/X'd) 08 Yamaha YBR (Sold)
CBT 04/14. A: Mod 1 & 2 13/04/15

[garth]

[Tracer1234]

[Kris]

I think your brakes are dragging. I had similar symptoms when mine were dragging and binding on the disc.

With mine, I let off the throttle a slight amount and the bike slowed much quicker than anticipated. Fuel consumption suffered too.


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NSR125RR - ZXR750H1 - ZX9R E1 - GSF600S - GSF600SK3 - VFR400-NC30 - SV1000N - ST1100-R - CBR900RR-R - GSF1200SK5 - GSF600SK1 - VFR1200FA - GSXR1000K2 - ZZR1400 D8F
www.prisonplanet.com

[Tracer1234]

After further attempts to fix, the brake has now seized.

Clearly I have screwed something.
____________________
Riding: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer Occasionally Riding: 08 Suzuki SV650, Potato: 2011 Yamaha YBR Custom.
Used to ride: 2015 Yamaha MT-09 Tracer (smidsy) 09 Triumph Street Triple (P/X'd) 08 Yamaha YBR (Sold)
CBT 04/14. A: Mod 1 & 2 13/04/15

[DrSnoosnoo]

[Tracer1234]

So, I took it apart, then pumped the brakes to put out the piston then cleaned this.

Then, with a clamp and wood, i pushed it back in.

Cleaned off the rest of it.

Put it back on the bike and tightened.

At this stage I started the bike and pushed the brake, it was very spongy and was not engaging the brake.

Then at this point took it off again, checked, put it back together, pumped the brake and the back wheel is now seized.


____________________
Riding: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer Occasionally Riding: 08 Suzuki SV650, Potato: 2011 Yamaha YBR Custom.
Used to ride: 2015 Yamaha MT-09 Tracer (smidsy) 09 Triumph Street Triple (P/X'd) 08 Yamaha YBR (Sold)
CBT 04/14. A: Mod 1 & 2 13/04/15

[DRZ4Hunned]

Did you remove the pistons?

Did you re-bleed the brakes?
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DRZ400-SM
FZS600

[Tracer1234]

[Holdawayt]

As above... you need to bleed the brakes if you've removed the piston.

If you're unsure about working on bikes, the brakes are an awful place to start tinkering. They're pretty vital and bleeding them should be an obvious final step.

[DRZ4Hunned]

If you brake the seal (by removing the pistons) then you need to re-bleed them. I typically replace the fluid when doing this.

The brakes shouldn't be spongy after a squeezing the lever a few times and if they are then they need to be bled. Not sure why would be seized unless you've twisted one of the piston seals and it's dragging on the piston? I'd remove the caliper and pump the pistons (making sure not to pop them out), just to see whether they're moving at all. If you clamp one piston, the others should move.
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DRZ400-SM
FZS600

[Tracer1234]

[DRZ4Hunned]

Apologies, rear brake then yes one piston... Even easier

Doesn't it say on the top of the reservoir cap? I'd imagine DOT 4
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DRZ400-SM
FZS600

[Tracer1234]

Ok, so... I am stumped.

The bolt in the image.

https://s24.postimg.org/n54mf6ekl/IMG_20170509_170203.jpg

When this is loose, or not in, the brakes work fine. No sticking, no sponge etc etc.

But when this bolt is tightened again, it is spongy, with no resistance on the foot peddle, and the breaks are seized. when pushing the peddle, the whole caliper moves as can be seen slightly in the video.

Also, when I pushed the prison back in, I didn't remove the cap from the break fluid, could I have damaged something here?

Help?!?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMxPEJkiUY4
____________________
Riding: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer Occasionally Riding: 08 Suzuki SV650, Potato: 2011 Yamaha YBR Custom.
Used to ride: 2015 Yamaha MT-09 Tracer (smidsy) 09 Triumph Street Triple (P/X'd) 08 Yamaha YBR (Sold)
CBT 04/14. A: Mod 1 & 2 13/04/15

[Orinj]

Hi guys, friend of Nathan's here.

Went round to have a look at his brakes for him. Piston wasn't pushed out so dont need to bleed.

The main thing that has stumped me is that as he said, with only the rear calliper bolt in, and no front bolt in, there is pressure in the pedal. The wheel spins freely and stops as should when the pedal is pressed.

When the front bolt is put in and tightened up, the wheel will not spin freely, and no pressure builds in the pedal even after pumping it 20+ times.

When tightened, it seems like the calliper is too close to the disc, so the static pad is sitting on the disc rather than floating on it.

Just thought I'd add this to make it clear.
Yes he pushed the piston back in without taking fluid cap off, but that would damage the seal if anything, not how the calliper sits surely?

Thanks.

[arry]

Take caliper off again. Take reservoir cap off. Push piston back in fully (it should be able to be done by hand) and then put cap back on, and remount caliper. See what happens.

I reckon the piston has forced its way back out.

[Tracer1234]

[garth]

Put the tools down, I'll have a look tomorrow.
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You ain't a has been if you never was

[Tracer1234]

[Beehive Bedlam]

I agree tools down and come back tomorrow before frustration takes over. More than likely it's something simple because you're a noob bitch.