Brake disk bolts (Stuck) Broken drill bit stuck inside.

[T1Cybernetic]

My rear brake disk bolts are stuck fast, I tried all sorts to free them but nothing helped so in the end I started to drill them out (Carefully)

Two came out no problem But I've broken the drill bit inside one of the bloody bolts So I called it a day for now.

I do possess a Dremel so I'm going to grind or drill out the little buggers but I'm not sure which bit/s I need to drill or grind it out with? Or where to order the correct parts from?
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[redeem ouzzer]

If you've snapped a drill bit inside a bolt, you're fucked son.

Best find a workshop with a spark eroder.
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Be a REAL MAN!

[stinkwheel]

A wheel on ebay will probably set you back in the region of £50.

Compare that to the cost of having a hardened steel drill bit removed and a thread insert fitted.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[chris-red]

In future, buy this...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tx-Star-Spline-Mechanics-Piece-Draper/dp/B00K1FB5XU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1496395833&sr=8-12&keywords=draper+expert

Select the spline tool that is slightly bigger than the allen hole. Place it Over the hole and hammer the cunt out of it so it bites into the sides of the hole. Put a socket on it and whilst pushing down hard unscrew it.

This has never failed for me.

Obviously you can't do that now. I would suggest using a dremel or file or hacksaw cut 2 flats off of the side of the bolt and use a spanner to undo it.

It is worth hammering the buggery out of it before you try undoing it to break a lock on it.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[DRZ4Hunned]

If it's a standard HSS bit, I'd imagine a carbide bit will get the fekker out.
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DRZ400-SM
FZS600

[Polarbear]

[iansoady]

It depends how far down it's broken. If it's below the level of the head then you might be able to use bigger drills to remove the head of that one. Then remove the others properly using the torx bit as suggested.

That should let you get the disc off and you should be able to remove the remains of the offending bolt with mole grips.

They will probably have been fitted with loctite so get them nice & hot before trying to remove them.
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Ian
1986 Honda XBR500
1952 Norton ES2

[T1Cybernetic]

Luckily these bolts are stuck on the old wheel I bought myself a replacement wheel + disk not so long ago, You guessed it. £50 with brake disk and spare bolts (Not attached)

The hss drill bit is snapped and stuck pretty deep After a bit of research it seems a carbide or the more expensive diamond bit should get rid of the stuck hss bit and bolt!

And yep you guessed right again, The bolts look like they are stuck with some thread lock and a bit of old fashioned corrosion.

To be fair I saved this old wheel with the stuck bolts just to see if I can get them out when I have a bit of spare time. I did originally do all the regular stuff like heating them up and even using a hammer and also tried some larger tools but the heads of the bolts that are left have totally chewed up and then snapped off so I resorted to drilling which went well on a couple of them until the bit snapped off
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[T1Cybernetic]

Forgot to ask, Can you point me in the right direction to some Carbide bits that will do the job? There a few different types and I don't know which ones to get.

With a Carbide bit, Is it a case of drilling through the old broken drill bit and bolt or grinding it out?
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[Pete.]

Don't waste your time on the carbide. It would require the wheel being clamped down on a machine and drilled with a rigid setup. Carbide is hard but not tough and needs constant controlled in-feed to stop the edge deteriorating.

Next time you're considering drilling brake disk bolts, weld a big nut to the head. The heat will break down the threadlock and release the corrosion bond.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[iansoady]

Assuming the disc is scrap, you could possibly cut through the head of the bolt(s) with an angle grinder (depending on the exact layout) leaving the stubs to be removed with mole grips etc after heating.

Quite often, once the clamping force is removed, bolts / studs come out quite easily.
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Ian
1986 Honda XBR500
1952 Norton ES2

[mkjackary]

You say you have tried heating it up, did you try with a soldering iron? If not, chuck one on the bolt or the screw for a bit (will probably take a while to heat the whole thing up) might make it expand enough to crack the corrosion seal, and maybe enough to crack/loosen the drill bit.

[raesewell]

I think you may want Cobalt bits not Carbide.
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Yamaha FJR 1300 Normanton West Yorkshire

[Raffles]

[Pete.]

Solder melts at under 200 degrees but threadlock typically needs 300+
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[kramdra]

Pics are needed. M6 bolts? how deep did you drill?

Snapped drills can almost always be removed knocking them with a punch and pliers as it will only be stuck at the tip. Very diffierent to a broken tap, drills are easy. That said I have not snapped many.

Id chose a carbide burr rather than drill for removing hss. However you have failed at drilling probably best you dont try.

If its an alu wheel you can use alum to slowly dissolve the steel. It wont touch alu. AvE had a video showing this. Grind the head off to remove the disc first.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqZYgReuywM&t

[DRZ4Hunned]

I disagree about requiring a drill press for carbide bits, I've just drilled a hardened output shaft with a 12v hand drill...

People said it wouldn't work, but it did...
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DRZ400-SM
FZS600

[Monkeywrenche...]

[DRZ4Hunned]

[........]

I've drilled many, many HSS jobber drills with cobalt drill bits. Ideally you would want to do this in a drill press or mill but it certainly isn't necessary.

If you can get in there with a small abrasive wheel or similar to flatten off the top of the broken drill bit it will make your life a lot easier. A good cordless drill isn't a bad tool to use with a cobalt bit as they turn nice and slow and have reasonable speed control. The down side is the chucks aren't very accurate so your (fairly expensive) cobalt bits aren't going to last very long. Usually you're only likely to be doing this to 'save the day' however so a few quid on drill bits is acceptable.

[Kickstart]

[Pete.]