BOlt still wont come off

[dransy]

Hi all i posted a few weeks ago about my bolt on my caliper not coming of well now its just taken the piss, ive wd40 it it didnt work, i hammered a smaller size rachet it on, the bolt round of again , i grinded a slit and tried to turn it with a hammer and a screw driver and ive grinder the head completely off now and tried drilling it , but it just wont drill threw it,

any ideas? i got told to use a hammer drill?

Cheers
Marc
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Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles

[Sparks!]

Nooo don't use a hammer drill

Just use a drill on normal setting, NOT HAMMER.. with a good quality HSS bit. It WILL dril through the middle then the bolt should collapse in and you can clear the thread... either that or drill bigger than the bolt and then re-thread the newly drilled hole... depends on size of bolt etc.
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Current Toys: 06 Yamaha WR250F | Nissan 350Z GT | Tech 4 Homes

[stinkwheel]

Have you got the calliper off? If not, take that off, you often find the 'stump' of bolt that is left will just unscrew with some mole grips once you have the pressure off it.

As to drilling, it is a mild steel bolt, a decent drill bit should go through it like butter. As Sparks! says, go get a new HSS drill bit of the correct size and drill through it SLOWLY. If your drill bit is sharp, it should literally 'suck' itself into the metal.

You really need a variable speed drill (gets faster the further you squeeze the trigger), if you only have one (fast) speed setting, you'll overheat the drill bit which will make it softer & blunt and heat harden the end of the bolt (blue colour, smell of burning metal).. With a new drill bit, it should take about 15-20 minutes to drill through just using a hand drill (which is about the speed you should be going).

Drill a small, absolutely bang in the middle pilot hole first, then move on to a bigger drill bit.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Knowlsey]

[ZRX61]

[Walloper]

If you can get access to a grinder take a Masonry drill bit and modify the carbide tips to provide a bit of rake Clearance. So the leading edge of the two carbide tips is higher than the trailing edge.
This will pish through the bolt using normal speed and feed.
Use oil to keep the doings cool.
There you go.
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[Rookie]

Mildly amusing for you ZXR61.

[Walloper]

[riichy]

ZXR61 you sound like my old english teacher....
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.......... PLOD ............ zx636 2004

[Kickstart]

Hi

I would be tempted to remove the head from the bolt (grinder, drill, whatever). Take the pads out of the caliper and push the pistons fully in so that there is plenty of clearance between the pistons and the disk.

You should then be able to take the caliper off the fork leg (unbolting the disk from the wheel would give even more clearance).

With the caliper off you can attempt to get the remains of the bolt out in relative safety and comfort, well away from the forks. Or just cheat and put a replacement caliper on (Aprilia have been using the same caliper since 1988, and they seem generally very weather resistant).

All the best

Keith
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[Knowlsey]

[SoND]

Drilling it out and tapping it is probably the best option. When you're drilling it, do it slowly and give it plenty of pressure.

The hole size should be about 1 - 1.2mm smaller than the tap to get the best thread in it.

Good luck.
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