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Loooong project CD175

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grahamd1
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 28 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took my stearing bearings out the other day, ok I should have done this before I sent the frame away for coating (senior moment), but no problem, and no damage done.

The other day I tool the old ones out of the headstock (should have done this before I sent the frame for powder coating, but then we all live and learn).

Used one of my largest steel punches and gently tapped all the way around a quarter of a turn (ie 12oclock, 3 oclock, 6 oclock) at a time

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0286-1.jpg

And out it popped (bottom retainer cup)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0287-1.jpg

With the bottom one out, you can see the top one (frame upside down), and the lip you need to push against

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0289.jpg

Till that one also comes out.

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0291.jpg

Just as a reminder this was the stearing head when I removed the bearing cup holder some time back

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0351.jpg
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grahamd1
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PostPosted: 23:13 - 29 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I first started this project I tried to remove the lower fork chrome covers, but with no luck at all (see below)

grahamd1 wrote:
This morning I took the forks to a local engineering company, and we tried all manor of clamps (oil filter, canvas webbing, chains), and NOTHING budged, out of deperation we cut some steel tube and drilled two holes with two 10mm bolts screwed in that fitted into the pre-cut slots (used by honda with their peg spanner), and ?

NOTHING, even 3 of us pushing and twisting (they fit like a bayonet, 1/4" turn then pull off), no way were they shifting. Took a micro camera and inserted it into the stanchions to have a look at the fork seals, and they are in great shape, so worse case I aint gonna change them.


Now I could just turn a blind eye to the fact that I cant get them off without destroying them, and hence not change the fork seals, BUT no way, this has been bugging me for a while now. Then right on cue a pair turn up on fleabay, brand new (NOS), and I got um.

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/forks.jpg

This diagram (part 5) shows the items, now I dont care if they bugger up when I try to get them off, I have two shiney new replacements, may seem a bit harsh, but its the only way I can be sure, and CAN now change the seals.

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/forks2.jpg
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grahamd1
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PostPosted: 21:10 - 02 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

And so time to start putting her back together

First item was the battery box, the heart of the bike.

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0310-1.jpg

Next was the ignition switch (got this off Fleabay as mine was hard wired, yuk)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0309.jpg

Next was the horn (also replaced non original part), and the twin coil pack. (Notice the new 3.9mm jap connectors I have already changed on the loom)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0307.jpg

And the Selenium rectifier (now adays this would only be a half wave recitfier and about 1/10 the size), this think was fillthy, so I stripped it down and cleaned it up, testing not only the diodes were ok, and ensuring they went back the correct way, but also testing the wires and plugs.

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0306.jpg
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grahamd1
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PostPosted: 20:04 - 05 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Moving SLOWLY onwards, I installed the baffles in the bottom case (these limit the amount of oil that gets thrown off the big ends).

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0319-1.jpg

And loosley tried the gears, crank and kickstart assemblies in the bottom of the case, so far so good

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0320-1.jpg

Also removed the old oil seal from the gear selector output

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0322-1.jpg

Old seal on the rhs

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0321.jpg

Next the gear selector (the CB has 3 selectors, the CD only 2)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0317-1.jpg

Then went to get the top case from the plastic box they were sent for vapour blasting in, when I noticed the case move on its own!!, further investigation revealed;

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0318.jpg

Yep, a tiny field mouse had moved in, probably the -9c and snow outside, and thought it was cozy in my damn workshop! I'm afraid he (she?) is out on their ear, and BACK in the garden, it looked a bit misserable as it ran off across the snow, SHAME...

Meanwhile, having loosley installed the gear selectors, these slots are engaged with the 14mm bolt (and lock washer) that then guides the selectors, that change the gears (push & pull)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0323-1.jpg

And the assembly is now checked, and all looks ok

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0324-1.jpg

A quick question to anyone reading ? I notice the top and bottom cases have traces of liquid gasket where the bearings (top and bottom) sit in the cases, I'm surpriced, not sure if I should do this or not?
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CHR15
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 05 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats interesting, are the crank scrapers standard fitment?


also, do the conrods sit on the piss or is it just a trick of the picture?
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Tim..
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PostPosted: 09:10 - 06 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

A light smear of blue hylomar when putting the cases back together is not a bad thing.

Give all the components a light coat of oil in the final assembly too Thumbs Up
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grahamd1
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 07 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The scrapers are standard kit.

blue hylomar on order, THANKS
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 07 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

grahamd1 wrote:
The scrapers are standard kit.

blue hylomar on order, THANKS


Wrong colour:

Hylomar Blue was developed for Rolls Royce to joint aluminium flanges, without gaskets. its a sort of hi-teck RTV, and only works well on very accurately machines flange faces.

Hylomar GOLD is developed to 'wet' paper gaskets to help adhere them to a face before fitting. LM Grease does much the same job.

Use Hylomar Blue on a paper gasket and it will 'seal' the paper and stop it swelling from oil and making as good a seal.
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CHR15
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PostPosted: 16:20 - 07 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue is correct for his situation. The crankcase halves have no gasket.
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grahamd1
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 08 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep no gasket, I called a local Honda dealer who confirmed they use Blue when joining gear cases on old twins.


Another damn fiddly job (and little ref in any of the pics in manuals) was putting the gear selector cogs/gears back in place with the springs corretly working

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0331-1.jpg

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0332-1.jpg

I feel very satisfied, when I move the wheel manually through the gears and neutral and see the gears slide on the selectors, poetry in motion...

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0333.jpg

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0334.jpg

Also got around to installing my stearing head bearings (Pyramid tapered rollers)

Here I'm packign the lower bearing in grease
http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0335.jpg

And the top one is in place

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0336.jpg

Also picked up a second engine (stripped plug hole), great for spares, and quick ref (wish I'd had it when I was doing the gear selectors/wheels).

Thats it for a week, off to Teneriefe at the crack of dawn, no more damn snow or ice, only cold beers and warm pools.
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grahamd1
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PostPosted: 20:28 - 17 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back from my week in the sun (Fantastic)

Thought it was time to do the job I had made feable excusses not to do?
The front fork seals!!!!

As I was lucky enough to get a NOS pair of chrome fork shrouds, I wasn't too worried if I destroyed the old ones in the process (one did, one came off easy), in the end one was a nightmare, and one came off with some persuation from a rubber mallet and some hard plastic (durol) nylon rod. for anyones interest these sleeves ONLY slide on and are then turned (BY HAND ONLY) to the correct position, using the two indents on the sleeve in the short grove in the fork, then twisted about 1/4". NOTE by hand, ie to remove them they should just pull up, no real need to twist them, just get them moving up and down 1/4" (adding lots of penetrating fluid) then they should just twist off. (see arrow)

Once off I removed the circlip holding the oil seal in place.

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0386-1.jpg

then I bashed the lower fork on a wooden floor till the spring inside pushed the oil seal out.

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0388.jpg

Then a problem !!!!

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0390-2.jpg

the seal on the left is the new replacement (Pattern) part, the one on the right is the original, about 1/32" too long, result is the circlip that retains the seal will not sit in the groove in the fork shroud!!!!!!. I ground mine down, and no problem, now the circlip fits fine.

Applied lots of greece over the oil seal, and around the top of the fork shroud (just in case I need to take those chrome sleeves off again)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0389.jpg
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grahamd1
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 19 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still can't believe I had to grind the fork seals down, I checked the Honda parts manual and its states 31mm,41mm,11mm. The ones I got (wish I could remember which fleabay seller it was, but as its over 60 days its not in my history), as these are 31mm,41mm,16mm.

Might re-open them and order some "genuine" replacements, but this time will measure them..... Embarassed
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grahamd1
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 27 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Waiting for the replacement seals, so onwards

After a few days in the freezer the swing-arm bushes are cold enough to be puyt through the wringer...

I smeared the inside of the bush housing with greese and found a socket that was the same od size as the replacment bushes.

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0413.jpg

Then using a bit of wood to protect the arm, I wound the bush in about 1/3rd the way using my new (Flea-bay purchse) vice (how the hell did I ever manage without this thing!!!)

Then used another socket (larger than the bush housing) and continued pulling the bush into place

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0415.jpg

Till she was in and square

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0412.jpgb

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0416.jpg

And another (excuse the pun) "Pivotal" step is taken as she moves closer to looking like a bike again.
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Oldgrumpy
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 28 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your doing a good job, looking forward to the end product - fun little bikes, I had a CB175 as my first bike in 1977 - "sport" verion with twin carbs and an electric start (Is the CD 6v electrics ? - the mists of time are playing havoc with my memory lol)
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Valentino Mossy
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PostPosted: 23:08 - 28 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cracking write-up and pics !
Love the engine work !
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grahamd1
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 03 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, and yes the CD175 is 6volt (and yes I could convert it, but I aint, I doubt I will ever ride it in the dark, so leave as is).

At last got my replacement fork seals, funny enough the same box (same make), and same part number BUT smaller ????

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0394-1.jpg

To recap, the problem is the seal sits on this lip in the stanchion, and the retaining circlip locates in the upper ring, and with the larger seal it was impossible to install the circlip

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0395-1.jpg

Now the upper forks and springs/dampers are inserted back into the stanchions

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0396-1.jpg

This is the circlip (awaiting compression before sliding down the bore into the retaining grove

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0440.jpg

Now the circlips fits with ease

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0441.jpg

Next I covered the top of the stanchion and clip/seal in ACF-50 (Anti-corrosion grease) to ensure water STAYS OUT

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0444.jpg http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0442.jpg

These are the locating pips inside the chrome fork covers (again inside coated in ACF-50)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0443.jpg

Job done (and should come apart if required)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0445.jpg
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Valentino Mossy
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PostPosted: 23:33 - 03 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

That grease, would that be good to use on my swing arm shaft which goes through the frame,engine,bearings,swing arm and bushes ?
Might try it on the single sided rear hub as most of the grease i used last time has manked up a bit...
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Hobgoblin
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.threadbombing.com/data/media/52/Kyle_Moar.jpg
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grahamd1
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PostPosted: 12:29 - 20 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a quick update, this project aint dead.

Got a replacement rear fender, problem is its worse than mine, so in the process of seeing if I can make one from two....

Been watching Cd175's go for crazy money on Fleabay since I got mine for next to nothing, so must be a lot of people now doing them ?
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 20 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loving it Thumbs Up more please!
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grahamd1
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 01 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got an engine off Fleabay the other week (CD175) went for 10 as one of the sparkplug threads was stripped, and a week later I got a head off fleabay (inc valves and cam shaft) for 12, so got a spare engine for 22, BARGIN. Just to add to the pile this weekend I got a bottom end (minus head and barrel) for 5, the reason is I can use this bottom end as my reference in getting mine back together Sick
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Rob Fzs
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 01 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaysus,well cheap!
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lizard821000
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PostPosted: 15:16 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

great read this mate!

ricky over on greybike pointed me in your direction, doing up an old 76 cb200.

about to split the engine, complete rebuild. bottom ends fked.

might hit you with a few questions if thats cool, just about parts suppliers and stuff lad. Smile

shaun
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GrumpyGuts
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PostPosted: 00:44 - 25 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great bump, never would have seen it otherwise.

You deserve all the praise you get for this, well done. Well impressed Thumbs Up
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grahamd1
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 25 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well after a long break of many months I now have a few of my other projects put to bed (inlcuding a troublesum problem with my XV750, thats taken months to diagnose, let alone repair), but in the end I'm back at it.

Although I havent been posting, I have been gathering parts here and there for the old gal (more on that later), so tonight (despite the heat), I finally did what I've been putting off for ages, and got the cases back together.

First of I did a dry run to check it all fits correctly.

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0967.jpg

All looks like it fits where it touches, which cant be bad. Next I liberally ran assembly lube over every moving part.

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0969.jpg

Time for the real coming together, and copious amounts of Hylomar Blue , before putting all those differnt length bolts back in place.

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0970.jpg

Gently pulled up all the bolts in diagonal order (both 10 and 12mm bolts), till the cases were sealed, then wiped off the spare Hylomar where it had squeezed out.

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0971.jpg

Now to leave her to set overnight.

My orignal fork shrouds and headlamp holders were rusted and cracked to buggery, so I've managed to get some odd replacements (the blue ones are NOS I managed to get as the very last stock from David Silver, shame he didnt have left and right, but hey ones better than none).

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0972.jpg

Whilst painting my other projects over the last few months I've become very dissatisfied at the off the shelf rattle cans (Halfrauds Acrylic based), they just don't seem up to the job, no matter how many coats of primer/top coat/clear laquear I've used they still scratch if you so much as fart near them, crazy thing is I have several air spray guns (HVLP) I have purchased over the years to use with other hobbies, and have never used them! So rather than go down the 2k (two part) paint route with all the crazy safety problems involved with air fed masks etc, I'm going to go down the epoxy route (more to follow). So thats the next step on the frame/build to have a play with the fork shrouds and see how I get on.
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