Routine maintenance

[firg]

Hi all,

Bought a bike, no previous experinace with maintenance, no tools, no nothing.

So - what kinda stuff do i need to look at, and what kinda stuff do i need to buy? Its a bandit 600 so an air cooled IL4 with chain drive.

Bear in mind noone in my family is the least bit technical or anything so I'm starting here with absolutely nowt tools or knowlege wise.

thanks for any help,

Loz
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Ex-'96 Bandit 600S -> '99 Bandit 600 -> K7 V-Strom 650

[Kickstart]

Hi

If you mean just general maintenance but still getting someone else to do the servicing.

Chain lubing. Oil it regularly. Plenty of spray on chain lubes available. Put the bike on the centre stand and turn the back wheel while spraying the stuff on the chain (onto the rollers and the O rings between the side plates), but keep your fingers well away from the sprockets while doing so.
Chain adjustment. Chain needs adjusting regularly to keep the slack about right (generally about 1 inch of play, varies between models though). You can do it using the tools in the bikes too kit, but pick up better quality tools when you get a chance.
Wash it occasionally.
Check the oil. Bandit has a sight glass so check the oil level is between the min and max marks with the bike upright.
Tyre pressures. Tyres often loose some pressure over time (more than a tiny amount means there is probably a dodgy valve or a puncture though). Check them regularly. Don't trust the gauge at garages.
Check everything works. Like lights. Check for leaks.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[firg]

Okays thanks kickstart.

One last question - on the CG125 i rode, the biting point on the clutch was about half way out. On the bandit its literally just before the levers totally out. Does this need adjusting?

thanks,

Loz
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Ex-'96 Bandit 600S -> '99 Bandit 600 -> K7 V-Strom 650

[Kickstart]

Hi

Does sound like it needs adjusting. Should be a bit of free play in the clutch.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[firg]

Spent some time reading through the manual and this bike maintenance lark doesnt seem that difficult. Getting all worried there for a second. They even give you some tools with the bike to get you started.

I do have 2 questions tho:

Firstly, throttle cable adjustment. The bandit uses a 2 cable throttle (one for openeing, one for closing). The manual talks about changing the cable play. Now i can see how you figure that out on the clutch as its from totally out to where the clutch starts biting. But how do you figure it out on the throttle? says it should have 0.5-1mm.

Secondly, For changing the oil filter, it mentions using a specific oil filter wrench. However looking at it it seems to just have the standard wrench fixing whatsit. Am i missing something here?

thanks,

Loz

edit: oh yes another thingy, you said dont trust garage pressure gauages for the tyres. so... what should i use? buy my own? Loz
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Ex-'96 Bandit 600S -> '99 Bandit 600 -> K7 V-Strom 650

[meenie]

[meenie]

[firg]

Thanks meenie

Ill have a stab at the clutch later this afternoon then come crying when i break it.
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Ex-'96 Bandit 600S -> '99 Bandit 600 -> K7 V-Strom 650

[firg]

Bah engine was still hot by the time it got dark so ill have to do it tomorrow.

Kickstart - any answer to the air pressure question?

thanks,

Loz
____________________
Ex-'96 Bandit 600S -> '99 Bandit 600 -> K7 V-Strom 650

[Kickstart]

[firg]

Like this?
____________________
Ex-'96 Bandit 600S -> '99 Bandit 600 -> K7 V-Strom 650

[Kickstart]

Yep, something like that.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Dazbo666]

I found that a tyre tead depth gauge has been useful too.
Plus, when I'm checking the tread depth etc, I'm also closely checking for any punctures, stones or scrapes in the tyre
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1st bike (Sept'06 - May'10) : 1991 GPZ500S / Current bike (since Nov 2009) : 2003 Suzuki Bandit 600N
Word of the day : DILLIGAF

[firg]

Eh that clutch cable changin thingy was easy as hell. If you follow the instructions, i dont see the big thing

Why dont peeps service theyre own stuff?

meh.

okays, one other question: when the engines cold, the oil window whatsit shows the oil level as right at the full mark. When its hot, its right off the top of the window. Soo, i guess its got too much in there cause the manual says to check when hot, but is this a problem? Also, garage always smells of petrol next morning, this is normal, right?

Loz
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Ex-'96 Bandit 600S -> '99 Bandit 600 -> K7 V-Strom 650

[firg]

Hello, it appears the clutch is not sorted.

As it is, the clutch only provides drive at the very end (when they are as close as possible) of the plate movement. That is to say, adjusting the clutch cable simply makes the lever loose, until the plates start moving (which you can tell from resistance and squekiness :p ), and then drive engages.This is unfortunately giving the clutch a kinda on-offish feel, as you get no change then all of a sudden all drive gone when pulling the lever in.

What could be the cause of this? Worn down plates? Surely they wouldnt wear down enough to remove enough material to have this much of an effect? Someone else i asked suggested the clutch springs. Anyone got an opinion?

thanks,

Loz

P.S. Sorry if the terms im using are silleh and wrong, but i have no idea what you really call this stuff
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Ex-'96 Bandit 600S -> '99 Bandit 600 -> K7 V-Strom 650

[firg]

Gonna be visiting the place i bought it from tomorrow to pick up some stuff, so i was hoping to get an answer as ive got some warrenty still on the bike (3 months standard when bought). Anyone?

It also appears my expensive helmet is craply put together. took it off my head today and the glue holding the skullcap padding stuff to the top gave up. so every time i take it off, the insert-padding stuff gets pulled out (its not just a removable thigny, as you can see the glue residue left behind, and the hard plastic fixing is coming out.)

Used it for a grand total of 4 days.

Oh joy.
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Ex-'96 Bandit 600S -> '99 Bandit 600 -> K7 V-Strom 650

[Kickstart]

Hi

Not sure. There are numerous bits in the clutch that can cause problems. Thrust bearing can have some odd effects. Worn clutch basket (the fingers on the basket wear, with marks from where the plates hammer it). Cables get old and start to stick. Plates warp. All can make the clutch unpredictable. Cannot really say which (or something else) from the description.

To be honest take it along to the bike shop and ask. Hopefully they will be honest.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Nath]

[Kickstart]

Hi

Rereading you description Nath could well be right that it is normal.

Advantage of learning on a sporty 2 stroke, especially one without a power valve, is that you get plenty of practice slipping the clutch.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[firg]

I only thought it was odd due to the CG125 i learnt on, having a very steady increased drive as the clutch was engaged. rather than nothing for most of the travel, then it all at once right at the end.

loz
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Ex-'96 Bandit 600S -> '99 Bandit 600 -> K7 V-Strom 650

[meenie]

[firg]