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SRAD Stalling / misfiring

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dheselwood
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PostPosted: 12:13 - 27 Apr 2008    Post subject: SRAD Stalling / misfiring Reply with quote

Im stuck!

I have a 600 Srad 2000, the bike will run fine out of my garage but as soon as I get to a 60mph+ road, the bike will ride fine for a minute or two and then it will begin spluttering like its firing on 3 cylinders and if I drag it out it will eventually drop down to about 2 cylinders, force me to pull over and stall.

The bike wont then start for a couple of minutes but if I wait it will then start (usually on what sounds like 3 cylinders) but as soon as I get going sorts itself out for another minute or two of 60mph+ riding, then the same thing.

It has started to do this since I dropped the bike (rode it home fine distance of over 5 miles) getting the fairings painted took 4 months and now I have the problem.

I have changed the plugs for iridium units, this has made the problem slightly better but still does the same thing.

the fuel pump wirrs up when I turn the ignition on.

fuel and air filters dont look clogged.

I have checked the battery and it seems to stay above 12 volts.

Any ideas would be much appreciated!

Thanks,
Daniel
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dheselwood
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 27 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK my legend of a friend came over and we took apart the carbs, checked and cleaned all the floats and bowls and in the process of taking the float bowls off we found a tiny fuel filter in the main fuel line which was full of crud so gave it a blast cleaned it up and put the bike back together.

Then it was misfiring so took the lot apart and one of the floats was in wonky straightened it up and again put it all back together and it seems to be running fine but need to give it a proper blast tomorrow and just to make sure may wack on an inline filter.

so just so you know - look for the hidden filter in the fuel line!
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dheselwood
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 03 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK scrub that it still has the same problem, thinking it may be the coils so gonna source some from ebay. anyone else got any ideas would be much appreciated

thanks.

Daniel
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stu_m
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 04 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

its your regulator/rectifier i had the same thing on my 99 model srad

your battery will eventually go flat too Wink

Stu
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dr_adams
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PostPosted: 04:52 - 05 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

ssurely if reg/rec when the bikes running the voltage across the terminals would be a bit dodgy? too high or too low? and why would it stop it starting again? is it always the same cylinders that stop firing? have you tried swapping the coil packs over... obviously keeping the leads to the same cylinder... does it matter which gear ur in when u hit 60?
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stu_m
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PostPosted: 07:24 - 05 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

dr_adams wrote:
ssurely if reg/rec when the bikes running the voltage across the terminals would be a bit dodgy? too high or too low? and why would it stop it starting again? is it always the same cylinders that stop firing? have you tried swapping the coil packs over... obviously keeping the leads to the same cylinder... does it matter which gear ur in when u hit 60?


the reg/rec overheats and goes t*ts up

not sure why it stops it firing but it does trust me

i was scratching my head for ages with it i thought it was carb icing at first as it was winter when it started but it then did it on a really nice day Confused
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dheselwood
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PostPosted: 15:03 - 05 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

what does the regulator/rectifier do??

No it doesnt matter what gear im in, It does the same thing if I accelerate hard from first or if ive been out for a few mins and and hit somewhere where I can get the pace up. I think it also does the same thing if Ive been out for a while at low speed.
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stu_m
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PostPosted: 17:26 - 05 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

it regulates the voltage from the genarator to the battery Smile
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smeg918
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 05 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, stu could be right suzuki's have a bit of a rep for regulator/recti going. If your positive it's not that what cylinders cut out if it's 1 and 4 or 2 and 3 it could be linked to a coil pack as the DR says swap the coils over to see if the problem moves. If it stays the same the problem is in the fuel system. ie fuel starvation. keeping the bike below 60 the bikes getting the fuel it needs above 60 it's starving itself. this would explain why after a couple of mins it restarts once the carbs have refilled. have you checked the float heights (it should tell you how to do this in the manual). also have you checked the fuel tank filter, and the breather. hope this helps give you some idea's
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ZaphodBeeble
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 05 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even though you hear the fuel pump whirring it doesn't mean that it's working properly. You need to check that first. Is the pump inside the tank on the SRAD? I think it is; there's a filter in there too.

The regulator/rectifier doesn't just regulate current it also converts it from AC to DC voltage. You can tell if the reg/rec is working by putting a test meter across your battery terminals. At idle it should read about 12 to 12.5 Volts and when you rev the engine it should increase to a maximum of about 14 volts. If the voltage stays at 12 volts or decreases then you could have a problem with either your alternator, reg/rec or wiring.

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dheselwood
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 05 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZaphodBeeble wrote:
Even though you hear the fuel pump whirring it doesn't mean that it's working properly. You need to check that first. Is the pump inside the tank on the SRAD? I think it is; there's a filter in there too.

The regulator/rectifier doesn't just regulate current it also converts it from AC to DC voltage. You can tell if the reg/rec is working by putting a test meter across your battery terminals. At idle it should read about 12 to 12.5 Volts and when you rev the engine it should increase to a maximum of about 14 volts. If the voltage stays at 12 volts or decreases then you could have a problem with either your alternator, reg/rec or wiring.

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I have checked the fuel pump (the old lift the tank, pull out the pipe and turn ignition on so it pisses fuel everywhere)

I checked the terminals and it stays at 12 in fact drops slightly (0.5v) as I rev. Im really good at keeping the bike clean so all the wiring is clean and tidy so it looks like we have a culprit - the reg/rec - anyone got one, ill keep you informed once I source one.

thanks guys it looks like you may have found the issue.

Daniel
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dr_adams
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PostPosted: 04:48 - 06 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

just a personal interest here.... why does it affect it at 60? i understand revs rising leads to an increase in sparks per second and then onto more heat being generated but why does it not happen if you were to rev it in neutral? surly 10000rpm is 10,000 regardless of speed?...:S
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dheselwood
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PostPosted: 06:09 - 06 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

dr_adams wrote:
just a personal interest here.... why does it affect it at 60? i understand revs rising leads to an increase in sparks per second and then onto more heat being generated but why does it not happen if you were to rev it in neutral? surly 10000rpm is 10,000 regardless of speed?...:S


60 was a round figure. I suspect if I hung the revs at 10k for a while it would do the same (although my neighbours would kill me)
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stu_m
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PostPosted: 07:02 - 06 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

its breaking down as it heats up

hence it only does it when you have been riding for a bit Confused
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stu_m
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PostPosted: 07:05 - 06 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZaphodBeeble wrote:

You can tell if the reg/rec is working by putting a test meter across your battery terminals. At idle it should read about 12 to 12.5 Volts and when you rev the engine it should increase to a maximum of about 14 volts. If the voltage stays at 12 volts or decreases then you could have a problem with either your alternator, reg/rec or wiring.

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its ok checking it at idle and revving it it will show it working fine

but once the reg/rec heats up it breaks down and spits its dummy out Confused
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ZaphodBeeble
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 06 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

stu_gsxr wrote:
its ok checking it at idle and revving it it will show it working fine

but once the reg/rec heats up it breaks down and spits its dummy out Confused


I don't think I've ever come across that before. I have diagnosed many reg/rec faults in the past and the idle/rev technique always works fine.

The reason why the bike loses power at 60mph as opposed to 10,000 rpm at standstill is the amount of load on the engine. The amount of fuel being thrown at the spark plugs is greater when at speed and with an open throttle than it is at a standstill. Also, the CDI or ECU detects the amount of load on the throttle by reading the voltage from the Throttle Position Sensor on the side of the carbs and it adjusts the spark duration and ignition advance to suit the engine revs and throttle load.
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stu_m
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 06 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

a lot of electrical companents can break down when they start to get hot

coils are the most common but reg/rec's do it aswell same as battery's
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dheselwood
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 06 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I have new coils and a new reg/rec on order, as they arrive ill plumb them in and see what happens.

I probably should get a new battery too.

If the bike doesnt work better than before after all this, ill be seriously upset!
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D O G
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PostPosted: 03:00 - 07 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope your fix works - it sounds like the problem I had on my SRAD a few months back. That turned out to be a continually pumping fuel pump, which would dump too much fuel in when cruising around, but it would run fine when used hard.

Only a thought should the bits you're getting not sort it.
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dheselwood
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK update with the SRAD.

New plugs
New fuel filter
Cleaned carbs out
New coils
New reg/rec

Were now stuck with only 3 cylinders on idle now so the problem has err...stabilized.

The bike starts fine even after leaving it a week so dont think its the battery.

Someone help, or, even better, someone come fix it for me!

its a riddle, maybe I should post a reward for the one who comes up with the answer!
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nightshaddow
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

if your fireing on 3 cylinders first thing you need to check is which cylinder is not fireing, many ways you can do this but with out buying special equipment i let the bike idle for a few mins then see how hot the down pipes the cold one is the culpret,

check the plug again and go through all your checks again you might find you missed some thing,

also you might need your carbs setting up could cause it to run rough if they not ballenced it could be something simple like a sticking slide,
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dheselwood
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

nightshaddow wrote:
if your fireing on 3 cylinders first thing you need to check is which cylinder is not fireing, many ways you can do this but with out buying special equipment i let the bike idle for a few mins then see how hot the down pipes the cold one is the culpret,

check the plug again and go through all your checks again you might find you missed some thing,

also you might need your carbs setting up could cause it to run rough if they not ballenced it could be something simple like a sticking slide,


I know which cylinder isn't firing, its the 2nd from the left it your sitting on the bike. Can I balance my own carbs? how is it done?
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