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Drilling/cutting 4mm Steel

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binge
Emo Kiddy



Joined: 02 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 27 Apr 2010    Post subject: Drilling/cutting 4mm Steel Reply with quote

I've mocked up a custom made, Highflow inlet manifold for my TZR engine.

It's basically a flat piece of steel, around 3" x 4".
4 holes drilled in it. One in each corner.

I've then got a curved piece of tubular steel, 30mm internal diameter.

I have cut one end off at a steep angle, So the lays almost flat, when stood on the Steel plate.
The other end is cut off square, as the carb will face up to this with a silicone coupling.



Now I need to cut a hole in the middle of this steel plate. It needs to be about 34mm wide, And about 50mm long. An elongated hole I guess.

I've had a shot at it with a hole saw, But have got nowhere really. It burnt the hole saw out. Razz


Whats the best option?


I considered using the oxy/acc at work to blow it out, Starting from the middle.
It needs welding to the tubular steel, and grinding neat/flush after anyway.

However, I was afraid the heat transfer from the Oxy/Acc would warp the steel and make it quite un-flat. Giving a poor seal when bolting it to the engine.



Any help MUCH appreciated, as I am not a steel engineer. Laughing
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Tristan.
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 27 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a local engineering firm to do it on a milling machine. Or if you have access to a pillar drill, that + a large bit + lots of time.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:09 - 27 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fistly drill your four mounting holes in the plate.

50-34 = 16, so draw two center-lines that cross in the middle, and then mark-off 8mm either side of centre on the long line. Center-punch these points. Fix the plate using the mounting holes to some scrap timber/mdf/the dog and then spot the two center-punch marks with a small drill. Get a 34mm tank cutter (a.k.a hole saw, starrett cutter) and drill a mm at a time swapping between the two holes so you are describing two over-lapping circles. Swap between them until one breaks though then remove that disc and drill the other using the hole in the timber beyond as a guide. Use a half-round file to tidy the job up.

If you are burning out hole saws then you have a hole saw for drilling timber or you are turning it too fast. Use water or oil for coolant/lube.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 27 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

What 'Steel'?
Stainless will eat any hole saw unless you let yer Gran do it.
Tunza lube and no heavy feed or fast speed.

Or you could use a small diameter bit and make hundreds of wee holes around the inside of the circle you want the half round b4stard file to clean up.
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effit
Scooby Slapper



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PostPosted: 20:36 - 27 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a mag drill with a 34mm cutter, any Fab shop will have one and shouldnt cost you a lot of dosh to have it done. The ones Ive used are Evolution but I think Rothenberger and a few other types are out there. Even have a look and see if you can hire one for a couple of hours at a local tool shop.
The shop will probably ram you for the cost of the drill bit so have a looky on Egay or somewhere like that.

here is one similar to what i`m talking about...

https://www.evolutionpowertools.co.uk/us/evolution_me3500.html

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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 27 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with Tristan.. A milling machine is the weapon of choice for this task.

If you take it in already marked out, they might even do it for a six pack of beer during their lunch break.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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jimspeed
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PostPosted: 21:01 - 27 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you are anywhere near ludlow i have a huge milling machine here and i would be willing to give it a go for you one eve..
i would mill it after welding too so the plate is flat again unless you were thinking of brazing it
jim
edit just seen you are in kent so a bit far i would av thought lol
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 27 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

jimspeed wrote:
if you are anywhere near ludlow i have a huge milling machine here and i would be willing to give it a go for you one eve..
i would mill it after welding too so the plate is flat again unless you were thinking of brazing it
jim
edit just seen you are in kent so a bit far i would av thought lol


So your mill isn't huge enuf to reach? Pity..... Very Happy
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jimspeed
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PostPosted: 21:37 - 27 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

na and its a bit big to post.. Rolling Eyes
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Hyosung cruise 125(passed test on, sold) Kawasaki el 252 (better than expected but sold on) Kawasaki GPZ500S first "big"bike.(sold) ZZR600 E5..Z750 2007,ER5, currently on a 2008 Enfield bullet electra x and loving it..
,"Alpha-9: Is there any correlation between dyno rod and dyno kits?"
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binge
Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 23:47 - 27 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brazing it was going to be my weapon of choice as that's all I have access to. And I'm also pretty good at brazing, I've made up complete exhaust systems with the gas axe.


Pete, You're the man! Will give that a go tomorrow with a fresh hole saw. Will have to check what ones I've got.

Failing that, I'll have to nip round a few places and see if an engineering firm can help me out.


It's just regular mild steel I beleive. I've used it to make my engine mounts out of. Certainly not stainless because a piece I used for a reg bracket, That I didnt paint, Has rusted slightly.




Ben
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:52 - 27 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alloy would be far easier to machine and lighter. Much more difficult to join though.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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binge
Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 00:16 - 28 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alloy also stores heat. I made the 2 pieces out of alloy a while back. Never did get them joined up though.




Ben
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:47 - 28 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

binge wrote:
Alloy also stores heat. I made the 2 pieces out of alloy a while back. Never did get them joined up though.
Ben


Stores it but is poor at conducting it.

Have you had a play with lumiweld solder? That nutter who makes the five cylinder kawasaki 2-strokes by splicing parts of two triple engines run through a bandsaw joins the crankcases together using aluminium solder.

It's a fine line between the temperature that flows the solder and the temperature that melts the alloy but once it's joined, it stays joined.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 06:19 - 28 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just use a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade ... I made some suspension linkages out of 6mm stainless steel and although it took a while it worked out ok ... 4mm steel will be a breeze Thumbs Up
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 09:21 - 28 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alloy (Aluminimuminum) will conduct heat and electricity quite easily and better than steel.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 11:27 - 28 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can drill stainles with a hole saw no problem, you use low speed and high pressure (and coolant). Some stainless steels work-harden very quickly if you don't use enough pressure. I drilled four 38mm holes in 6mm thick 316 stainless with one drill and it still had all it's teeth.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 11:41 - 28 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
Alloy (Aluminimuminum) will conduct heat and electricity quite easily and better than steel.


If you put the end of an aluminium bar and the end of a steel bar in a fire and hold onto the ends of them, you'll drop the steel one first.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 28 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thermal Conductivity

Steel, Carbon 17 - 43 (app)
Stainless Steel 16

Aluminium 118 -144
Copper 204 - 233
Silver 248 (best)
Gold 182
Platinum 42

Generally, a material's electrical conductivity is almost equal to it's thermal conductivity.

Stinkers, have you tried putting a bar of Aluminumimnun and one of Steel in a fire to find out which one you drop first? Karma
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 28 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oooh I thought thermal conductivity was at least partly dependent on the density of the material...

Learn something new everyday eh Thumbs Up
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 28 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:

Stinkers, have you tried putting a bar of Aluminumimnun and one of Steel in a fire to find out which one you drop first? Karma


When I did fire eating (back before I had a huge beard), I very quickly learned to use bits of alumnium rod rather than steel fencing wire to make my torches with. The wire ones got too hot to hold very quickly. You could do a full routine with the aluminium ones.

It may be that the heat from the torch is being radiated away from the metal more quickly than it can be conducted along it?
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 28 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

What an excellent line to drop into a conversation "Back when I did fire-eating" Very Happy

Yes, that would be the reason - the heat was radiating off the aluminium rod. The denser steel rod would store more heat and radiate it less quickly.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 00:27 - 29 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does that fire-eating not lead to heart-burn and Charring of the Underpants?
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