spindle protection

[nightshaddow]

after the winter i decided to service up the rear end, the last few times i have removed it it has looked like this

https://img215.imageshack.us/img215/2224/spindle1.jpg

after 10 mins on the wire wheel on the bench grinder they look like this

https://img704.imageshack.us/img704/8185/spindle2.jpg

question is it only takes a few weeks to look rusty again so how can i protect it all
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"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews )

[Itchy]

Well the inside should have been packed with grease, I grease the spindles quite heavily and the outer bits get FS365'd.
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Spain 2008France 2007Big one 2009 We all die. The goal isn't to live forever, the goal is to create something that will. In the end, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it is worth watching.

[nightshaddow]

[Itchy]

[DrDonnyBrago]

FS365 is a scottoiler product, similar to ACF50 but a lot cheaper.

Spray it on absolutely everything (esp those things made of metal) except for your brakes, tyres, seat and grips - makes washing it easier and does a good job at stopping corrosion.

This reminds me that mine is due a top up.

[Thom]

As has been said copper grease is abrassive, it has fine particles of copper in it and is generally used to maintain a condustive connection or prevent seizure.

You're problem there is the steel is rusting as a result of not being protected.

Again, as has been said you should have the axle heavily greased, including the spacers, and i also grease the chain adjusters heavily too with a general automotive grease (i believe mines bearing grease) which in my case comes in a tin by castrol and is smooth (unlike copper grease) and yellow/clear.

If you dont care how dirty your bike looks grease the heads of the nuts and bolts too, it'll help protect them, your copper grease can be used on the spingle nut and chain adjuster bolt/nut to prevent them seizing through rust.
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Current Bike: 1996 Yamaha TRX850 (The Japanese-Ducati One).
Previous Bikes: 1990 Honda NSR125 'Rothmans' (The smoking one), 1990 Suzuki GS500e 'Caf? fighter' (The loud one), 1987 Kawasaki GPX400r (The quick one), 1997 XJ600s Diversion (The reliable one), 2000 Kawasaki ER-5 (The spontaneously combustive one)

[stinkwheel]

[.]

ACF50 here's something I found after a quick search ......

ACF-50 is a state-of-the-art compound for controlling corrosion on aircraft electrical and avionics systems and airframes. ACF-50 is certified under Mil-C-81309-E, Amendment 3, Type II. ACF-50 is manufactured under ISO 9000 Certified Processes. Used in motorcycles ACF-50 protects the bare metal finish with a thin film to keep the surface looking as good as it did when you applied it.


THE CORROSION PROCESS:
When moisture is present for a prolonged period of time, corrosion "cells" are formed. These cells act as catalysts, feeding the transfer of electrons as long as any moisture is present.


WAXES RETAIN WATER:
Most corrosion inhibitors contain sealants such as wax, tar, asphalt, teflon or silicone lay on top of the corrosion cell. Because of their thick composition, they cannot remove the electrolyte and may actually seal it in, thereby encouraging corrosion.


ACF-50 PENETRATES THE CORROSION BY-PRODUCT:
ACF-50's ultra-thin formula easily penetrates the entire corrosion cell.


ACF-50 EJECTS THE ELECTROLYTE:
The encapsulated and emulsified electrolyte is ejected from the corrosion cell and replaced with ACF-50.


NO ELECTROLYTE = NO CORROSION:
The ACF-50 acts as an insulator, terminating the electrolytic process for 24 months!




About ACF-50:
ACF-50 was developed 15 years ago and has amassed a record of performance unique in the aerospace industry.
ACF-50 is an excellent penetrant.
ACF-50 kills any corrosion currently in progress with just one application.
ACF-50 is good for rubber, preventing it from cracking or drying out.
In most applications, ACF-50's unique properties will last for 24 months before it needs to be re-applied.
The ultra-thin-film does not hold any salt crystals, dirt particles and does not "dry", it stays a flexible liquid.
ACF-50 will not displace or melt any grease which is already in place. It will mix with it and make it more efficient.
ACF-50 is non-carcinogenic and virtually non-toxic.
ACF-50 can be easily removed with MEK or soap and water.
ACF-50 will not harm any plastics or painted surfaces.
ACF-50 can be safely applied to electrical components such as alternators, starters, magnetos, generators, distributors, carburators, wiring, switches, rheostats, compressors, battery terminals, light bulb sockets, electrical connectors, circuit breakers, ignition systems, wire harnesses, etc.
ACF-50 holds written OEM approvals from the following manufacturers: Bombardier Regional Aircraft, Douglas/Boeing Helicopter, ATR Regional Transport, Bell Helicopter Textron, The New Piper Aircraft, Gulfstream Aerospace, Robinson Helicopter, McDonnell Douglas, Enstrom Helicopter, Schweitzer Aircraft, British Aerospace, Concorde Battery, Raytheon Aircraft, Sikorsky Aircraft, MD Helicopters, Cessna Aircraft, Pilatus Aircraft, Beech Aircraft, Van's Aircraft, Extra Aircraft, Hiller Aircraft, Air Tractor, Lake Aircraft, Rolls-Royce, Britten-Norman Aircraft, Learjet, and Canadair.

[Walloper]

FFS!!!

Are you the Bike Chat Forum member from Lindisfarne?

Check out this to avoid too much corrosion on your commute.

https://holy-island.info/lindisfarnecastle/2010/

Normal Lithium/molybdenum/PTFE grease (or Copper Grease). I don't know what benefit there is from copper grease. The grease is only creating a barrier between moisture and the components.
To eliminate the water effect ensure the parts are very clean and dry then give them a good smeeeering of clean grease.

These parts are usually zinc plated but your's has lost this over time due to the action of salt and water.
I am another Scottoiler FS365 hoor. I even use it on the lawnmower and my mountain bike.
Call me old fashioned if you like but I am now trying Waxoil on the adjusters and any exposed metal of our CG125 and on my R1200GS. Washing will remove it but the theory is that the properties that Waxoil claim it will 'wick' into nook & crannies. Fingers krossed then.
Wild Tangent/Side-Track:
Bike makers seem reluctant to step up their game to prevent bikes dissolving under our shitty winter road dressing regime. And dealers have a standard script on offer if you complain that your bike is shedding pounds in rust.
Years ago British cars would practically melt after four or five years now there are no British car makers coz.... they wouldn't listen to customers.
British Steel offered an anti-corrosion coating on the sheet metal they produced for car manufacturers (during the rolling process). Most European companies asked for the coating. British Leyland took it bare.
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[DrDonnyBrago]

I have to admit, nothing pisses me off more than finding another siezed/rusted part on my bike. Considering Honda's "legendary" build quality and that my bike has spent 99% of it's life in a garage, all I seem to have is problems that could be avoided if it were made out of better quality metals!


Just grease the snot out of it and hammerite all the bits you don't want to stick grease on.

[stinkwheel]