Kawasaki ZZR600D Project

[jessie61271]

My - you have had a busy week off! Nice one, looking good

Nice photoshop job, graphics really trick it up

See ya next week

[unspec]

I had to take a day off from the bikes as it was the g/f's birthday.

So, back to work and it's oil change time. And what a PITA it is on the ZZR, you have to not only detach the oil cooler, but also part undo the frame that it is mounted on just to get to the filter. Who the hell designs this stuff?

Anyway, this is what it looks like when you've got everything out of the way.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/oilcooleroff.jpg

Got the oil filter changed and refilled with some semi-synthetic 10w-40.

Then I decided to take a few pictures of her:

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/nakedzzr1.jpg

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/nakedzzr2.jpg

Now although I was just going to stick getting it through the MOT, I fancied doing something to make it a little faster.

I knew for sure of there was one thing that can make a Kawasaki go faster, it's green plastic.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/gofasterplastic.jpg

I popped into a local bike breakers and this was for the taking - £200 all in. I decided there and then I wanted it. The belly pan has a burnt bit where the hot oil of the exploding engine cooked it a little but apart from that it's in fair condition.

And this is what the front looks like fitted.
https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/frontfairingon.jpg

Next, the rest of the fairings....

[Grimnir]

Like the new panels!
Whenever you take the oil filter off, it will drip on the collector and stink like a bastid when you start it up. Might not be such a problem for you as it looks like you have plenty more to do first. Keep the updates coming...

[unspec]

Slow progress today.

I spent a good 2 1/2 hours getting the bolts out that hold the sidestand cutout switch in. They were a real bitch (and bent slightly!) but finally I got them out. When I put in new straight bolts, the sidestand plate lined up with the cutout and fixed it.

I also replaced this, with another unit from the same bike that provided my new panels.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/bentgearselector.jpg

Yes, the gear selector was properly bent out of shape. The new one was a straight swap and worked perfectly.

Finally I put all the panels onto the bike to test the fitting and work out which bolts I'm missing. Here is what it looks like, obviously I have yet to swap the tanks.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/testfitright.jpg

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/testfitleft.jpg

Phew!

[teabag]

From my vague recollections the rear caliper looks very similar to the one I had on my GSX600F (the original teapot one). These had the torque reaction arm above the swing arm.
____________________
NS125R = 2 years > GSX600F = 7 years > XR125L = 3.5 years > SV650S........and a Citroen Synergie HDI for the kids.

[unspec]

Short update.

Replaced the number plate light, adjusted the rear brake like switch, bled the front brakes, bled the back brakes, bled the front brakes again, cleaned the left and and bled the front brakes again - they really are shit.

Tank is on, stainless steel bolts were used and I think it is just about ready for the MOT!

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/motreadyright.jpg

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/motreadyleft.jpg

She scrubs up pretty well for an old bird!

[qarka]

____________________
Previous - Sinnis Apache - Honda Bros 400 - Yamaha SR500 - Honda Transalp - Kawasaki ZX-7R - Honda CB-1 - Honda 929 Fireblade - Honda NTV650 [b]Current[\b] Honda CB500

[Grimnir]

Looking good - keep the updates & pics coming

[deleted111]

Been following this for quite a while now,

really liking the look of it with the green bodywork

I doubt I'd ever have the patience for something like this, good work mate!

[unspec]

Been quiet for a while.

Bike went in for the MOT...and failed.

Some silly stuff I should have sorted with the lights and bars touching the tank at full lock but there was one significant item, the brakes.

Those damn tokico calipers just cant seem to get and feel. So I hunted on ebay and bagged myself a m/c and front caliper set for a CBR900RR for just £33

Here is a caliper.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/nissins.jpg

The Honda uses M8 bolts but the holes in the fork mounting points are for M10s. So, I fabricated some sleeves by getting some 10mm steel tube from B&Q with 1mm walls and cut them down to size.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/sleeves.jpg

I then used some M8 bolts and used a washer to position the caliper correctly relating to the disc and another washers to spread the load of the head of the bolt.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/newcaliperbolts.jpg

I also had to do a bit of filing on the caliper to stop the discs from fouling on them and a little was needed of the mounting points on the forks. However, with that done it was a good fit.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/nissinsfitted.jpg

I didn't stop there and decided that I'd use that master cylinder as well just to complete the system. It wasn't too tricky to mount.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/newmcfitted.jpg

I put it back into the garage on a retest and it passed

However, disaster was to strike not even 5 minutes after leaving the garage!

While riding the bike my clutch failed!

After getting it home via the RAC, I found that the (bodged) cable was fine but the arm it pulls had slipped down, indeed I could almost pull the thing out of the clutch cover.

Draining the engine and taking off the clutch cover and the clutch actuator arm was mine. I think it is safe to say it is fucked.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/clutchactuatordamage1.jpg

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/clutchactuatordamage2.jpg

So, I've got a replacement arm on order along with a new gasket (there was horrible instant gasket used before), new sump plug and crush washer (it was leaking a little) and clutch cable (the other one was bodged to tighten it up even further resulting in a very stiff clutch.

So the wait begins. Hopefully that is all that is required and I don't have to rebuild the clutch. I'd like to avoid that if possible.

[unspec]

Oh yes, almost forgot.

The bike has a lovely set of Angel STs as the old rubber was cracking and ruined.

[unspec]

All the parts arrived today, so I'll be working on the bike this weekend

[unspec]

So my parts arrived

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/newbits.jpg

I drained the oil out of the engine and took the clutch cover off, it took a while to get rid of the horrible instant gasket stuff - yuck!

This is it all cleaned up.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/clutchcover.jpg

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/cleanedclutch.jpg

I installed a new clutch cable

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/clutchcablelower.jpg

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/clutchcableupper.jpg

And here is the bodge the previous owner did to tension the old cable.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/oldclutchbodge.jpg

I put everything together and made the following observations.

1. Clutch now works but only just, I think the plates are very worn. I can't adjust the cable any further - I suspect this why they did that bodge on the cable in the first place. The only fix for this is new plates I think , so I'll have to get a rebuild kit.

Still at least the clutch action is really nice and smooth now, uline the previous thing that was almost ratchet-like the way the cable felt.

2. I have a small oil leak from a crack at the sump plug I will have to fix this somehow. Liquid metal? JB Weld? It's not under pressure so I just need something that will cope with the high temperatures.

3. look at the difference in the actuator arms!

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/clutchactuatordamage1.jpg

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/newclutchactuator.jpg

Back to wemoto.com I go....

[woll]

If it was me i'd get the sump welded/replace the sump it it was cracked.
Bikes looking good mate
____________________
Current Bike- Suzuki DRZ400 SM K6
Previous bikes - Derbi Senda Xtreme50r, Honda CBR 125, Kawasaki ZZR 250, Yamaha DT125R, Suzuki Bandit 600, Gas gas ec 250, Honda CBR600FW
Damaged spleen, damaged kindey, 2 popped lungs, 2 broken ribs, broken face, broken wrist and 5 back fractures... remember kids walls hurt

[unspec]

[Gazdaman]

Liquid metal will do it for the time being, but really you need to get it pretty damn clean to be able to get it to go off nicely.

As above, I'd be looking to get it welded/replaced.
The difficulty of that depends if the crank cases split vertically or horizontally. Still a pain in t' arse.

Clutch thing looks good.

Gaz

[unspec]

No real news, just to say my EBC clutch rebuild kit arrived today.

I'll fit it at the weekend.

[unspec]

First thing was first I drained the oil out of a (still quite warm bike) and took all the clutch parts out. It was actually a lot simpler than I thought.

And here is the empty clutch!

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/emptyclutch.jpg

I purchased an EBC race clutch rebuild kit. Here is everything out and prepared (I've not soaked the friction plates yet). It has kevlar friction plates, new steels and uprated springs.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/clutchout.jpg

Here are the old plates. I'm not really experienced enough to know if they are fine or have had it.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/oldfrictionplates.jpg

But here are the fresh news ones for comparison.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/newfrictionplates.jpg

I was advised to check the pushrod bearing, which seems to be in excellent condition.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/pushrodbearing.jpg

And the pushrod itself also looks really good.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/pushrod.jpg

And that's it so far - apologies if this stuff is a bit boring but I've never done anything like this before so thought it would be good for me to document it.

[unspec]

I should have checked the torque of the bolts, I sheared the head of the second one right off.

Apart from feeling like a right muppet, what's the best tool for the job?

If I can get a pilot hole in, would these do the job?

https://www.screwfix.com/prods/18643/Drill-Bits/Specialist-Drill-Bits/Screw-Extractor-Set?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Drill%20Bits-_-Screw%20Extractor%20Set#

[mad4it028]

if you just snapped the head off remove all other bolts then the cover or whatever you were bolting up and wind the rest of the bolt out with grips
____________________
always looking to buy bikes crashed ,unfinished projects,none runners pm me
currently riding kawasaki z1000 only bike ive ever loved

[unspec]

[unspec]

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/boltfinallyout.jpg

[Gazdaman]

[unspec]

[unspec]

Small update, it's not project related as I'm going to just run the thing until the summer now (I will probably start a Thundercat project page sometime).

Regulator/rectifier failed so I had to replace it.

It was running very hot, and was making a seriously nasty acrid smell.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/oldregrec.jpg

Here is the new one for comparison.

https://homepage.mac.com/jrsanderson/images/zzr600/newregrec.jpg

The ZZR couldn't charge itself before so I'm hoping it's fixed that as well!