Stroking a smoker

[Whosthedaddy]

How long does it take to get a 2t up and ready for riding?

I know that letting any bike idle for too long on choke is never a good thing but also ragging a bike from cold is just as bad. Does gentle urban riding constitute as 'warming' the bike up with no harsh pull aways from the lights for the first 5-10 minutes or so? Or is it pretty much a gentle ringing of the throttle the best way, well best way to annoy the neighbours anyways.


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Current : MSX 125 Past : CBR 900RR Monkeybike : c50 LAC : ZXR750 H2 : FZR600 : ZX7R P3 : YW100 : TRX850: Trophy 900 T309 : GSXR 600 L0: Monkeybike : XJ6S Whosthedaddy

[MarJay]

[hmmmnz]

my little air cooled bike gets about 10-20 seconds while i get my helmet on then its a constant thrash from the moment i get out the drive
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[HD]

[Glenben92]

Better off to warm it up with load on the engine. start it, whack the helmet on slowly, check you've got your keys and shit, then jump on and ride gently for the first 10 15 minutes or so, if you wanna be REALLY kind to your engine. takes a surprising amount of time for the engine and oil to FULLY warm through. But I go OTT with care
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57 Huoniao HN125-8 - , 97 Kawasaki GPZ500S -
99 Yamaha FZS 600 -
Mod 2 Passed - 01/10/2010

[TQ]

[Teflon-Mike]

You warm a 4-Stroke up to give the oil a chnce to warm up and thin out, get circulating round the block, coating the cams and rockers and other wirly bits.
On a two-stroke, you dont have such a lubrication system to 'prime', oil gets where its supposed to via the auto-lube pump, or pre-mix, and is washed through with teh charge each combustion cycle. Reason for warming a 2T is to get the piston and bore to temperature so that the metal expands to the right size for the 'running' clerances, to avoid it nipping up.
Its old lore but still reasonably valid, you have alloy piston and iron cylinder. Alloy expands more than steel, so the clerance 'cold' in a lot bigger on the piston to allow it to expand that bit more than the cylinder as it gets hot. BUT the piston will get hotter, faster than the cylinder will.
So you warm a 2T to get the heat into the cylinder and get it the right size, before you start putting load on the engine, or higher revs, that could make it nip-up.
Ref Marjays comments about 'blipping' the throttle on the RD, like 80's race bikes; 'questionable practice', that..... lots of people do it, becouse it sounds / feels good, and its what the racers did, but few actually know why they did it!
Reason was that very highly tuned 2T's often wont 'idle', and the carburation on a race bike is often not great, they dont like holding constant revs or part throttle. On the track, they dont have to very often, they're either cracked wide open accelerating, or completely shut off, while the bikes on the brakes.
So they would blip the throttle to keep them running, for starters.
Next up, race 2t's would often be over-cooled, built specifically to be ridden under hard load, they needed a lot of cooling to stop them overheating under power, so idling they'd often actually NOT get warm enough to stop them siezing.
But more importantly, they drank pre-mix, and it was usually quite a thin oil-ratio. Race bikes would run around 50:1 petroil, where your little strimmer motor might run as much as 25:1. Reason being that at high speeds, and loads, motor is sucking a heck of a lot more oil in with the extra fuel, so it doesn't need as much oil in the petrol to keep it lubed, and extra oil means less power and risk of oiled plugs. so they'd 'blip' the throttle to get the extra fuel, and hence lubricating oil, from acceleration enritchement into the motor, to stop them siezing whist warming up....
Standard road 2T, with oil injection shouldn't have any of those problems........ but still sounds cool and feels good!
None of which really answers the question, though, BUT.... reason I mention it, is becouse its entirely dependent on the bike.
Something like an MZ125 should pretty much run from cold.
Something like an Aprillia RS250, be worth letting it idle until the water-jackets warm.
Something like a tuned Suzuki X7, drinking pre-mix.... you'd need to know your bike and its foibles!
Rough reckoner? when it's warm enough to run cleanly and take load with the choke off.... that's when its warm enough.
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[HD]

[Paulington]

I ran the SC125 and RS50 by turning it on, getting straight on it, getting out of the drive and then ragged it.

Did it for a year on the RS50 and about 3 months on the SC125, no problems.

The KDX200 is from 1989, that gets kicked over, out the drive and ragged, no problems.

The old superkart engine which was a CR250 and then a 250 Rotax (six-speed one) was started then ragged with no problems too, often rebuilt though as it was for racing.

The Rotax FR125 engine in my kart, that was also warmed up by one slowish lap whilst the tyres warmed up (~850m or so) and then ragged from there. Rebuilt every ~30 hours.

Maybe I'm just lucky with two strokes! !
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"Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul."
Current Vehicles: '89 Kawasaki KDX200, '99 Yamaha XV535, '00 Honda ST1100 Pan-European, '08 Suzuki GSX-R1000, '08 Mitsubishi Lancer GS4 2.0 TDCi, '15 BMW 1 Series 116d Sport Turbo.
CBT: 27/08/08. Theory: 04/09/09. Module 1: 16/09/09. Module 2: 01/10/09.

[HD]

[Paulington]

[Al]

With the air cooled Vespa I just start and go, It needs the choke to start when cold but won't idle with it on, then runs fine without choke.
Normally take it easy for the first couple of miles, which is hard on a vespa as you need to be a bit aggressive with it just to maintain a normal speed
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[27cows]

10 seconds of choke and away we go on the RXS. Lesser strokers can be fickle. Had a 350 Powervalve once that used to need a full two minutes on choke and then about five minutes of throttle restraint before it would rev cleanly. LC500 was a fucking nightmare in the really cold weather. Sometimes it wouldn't warm up properly even after a reasonably long ride.

H1 would stutter and grumble for ten minutes and then suddenly launch into a massive power surging wheelie. Great fun on icy roads Death trap, but a hugely entertaining one.

Stroker motors only work as small singles for everyday use. Bigger engines are OK for race/competition use, crap for the road.
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The RXS100: vehicle of choice for Chuck Norris

[ms51ves3]

[HD]

[FURBAR]

My bikes is MUCH better once fully warmed .. 5 - 10 mins ...

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Fuk um !!

[Glenben92]

[Whosthedaddy]

I am really surprised at the replies so far. I had previous conceptions that it seemed to take an age before moving off?

[Pernig]

When I start my H100 up I put the choke, the revs go up to about 3k, then slowly down to 2k. Once it is idling at 2k with the choke on it will idle at just under 1.5k without. Doesn't take long at all. I just give it a few revs and let it idle for a minute or two.

If I try and thrash it from cold it won't go any higher than 4k until it is warm, but if I ride off slowly and keep it under 4-5k for about a mile (which takes one and a half to two minutes) it is nice and responsive.
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H100 Breaking for spares

[hmmmnz]

[reggie]

i start my rx 154 and drive of straght away i dont go past 7k til its at at atleast 65C
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when the shit hits the fan make sure its facing the other way.

[covduude]

I have no bike, and when i do have a bike, it has no rev counter or temp gauge ...

And my renthall handlebars have cost me 200 quid ...

I've stopped drinking and i'm fat ... i can't see my penis standing up, which makes me wet myself ....

My bike had suspension .. not sure now ..

I could go on ..
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TBC

[MarJay]

[ms51ves3]

[Welshd1k]