Respray Question

[Vman]

How much should I be looking at to have a bike resprayed professionally? The bike only has a fairing around the cockpit and plastic covers and a little plastic at the rear, front mudguard and tank. I'm Hampshire based, so would be delighted to hear of any sprayers near(ish) to me that you would recommend. I'm after matt black by the way,

Thanks in advance.....

[Marmalade]

Matt black? get the cans out and save yourself a wedge.

Pull it apart, sand it a bit, primer and a few good doses of matt black and you've got your very own 2 wheel blackboard

I'm waiting for a couple of warmer days as i have a panel i need to spray, failing that i'll stick a heater in the shed and do it in there
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[Vman]

Thanks for that, but I'd prefer to have a non-fecked up job done! Not overly happy with doing it myself, I want a really good finish!

[Rogerborg]

If you do it yourself and nob it up, it'll cost you the same to get it done professionally anyway.

It's really not that hard, even with rattle-cans. You just need to be patient. I'll tell you more ... later.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[Shaft]

Since I run a bodyshop, I can give you a rough idea, but I don't know if painters who specialise in bikes (we do cars, but we've done a couple of bikes recently) have lower labour rates, mechanics certainly seem to.

The major part of any respray is the preparation, typically this takes around 1-1.5 hours per panel, more if there are repairs to be done or if it's a complicated shape, such as a heavily shaped tank.

Any areas of bare metal or dubious quality paint will then need to be stabilised and primed, which then needs further preparation, before the top coat goes on.

The actual final finish takes about an hour.

It seems you've got 5 panels, so allowing a bit to be safe, that's around 10 hours of work, including painting; at my rates, that would be £350.

Add to that about £100 paint and materials and you end up with £450+ VAT.

As I say, bike painters might be cheaper on labour and that doesn't include any specialised work/materials, such as repairs or plasticisers, which you may have to use if any of the panels are subject to a large amount of flexing.

One thing I would say is, if you want a near perfect matt or satin black finish, preparation is doubly important, as is a dust free environment to paint in; if you get particles of dust or imperfections in the finish, you can't polish them out as you would with gloss, the only option is to flat down and paint again.

That won't bother some painters, but some might charge you extra simply because you don't want a gloss finish, because it means they have to get it perfect from the gun.

Hope that helps.
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[Vman]

Great reply, thanks for that, I've just found a fella in Fareham which is just down the road from me, I'll give him a ring tomorrow. That price seems fair enough for a quality job. I don't think I'd get the prep right and just screw it up and be really disappointed.

[Shaft]

You're welcome.

I know a lot of people think painting is some kind of black art, but it's actually worth doing some experimenting, you can get some very good results using spray cans.

If you take your time, use the right equipment and take some care with the environment, there's no reason why you can't do it yourself.

You might want to try getting hold of some scrap panels and having a go.
____________________
Things get better with age; I'm close to being magnificent........
20 RE Interceptor, 83 Z1100A3, 83 GS650 Katana
WooHoo, I'm a Man Point Millionaire! https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=234035

[Shaft]

A little further thought on this:

I was chatting about this to my painter earlier and his main concern was getting a perfect, dust free finish, using matt/satin colours.

He suggested a vinyl wrap, which any decent signwriter should be able to organise.

Probably wouldn't be much cheaper than a respray, but it could be another option.
____________________
Things get better with age; I'm close to being magnificent........
20 RE Interceptor, 83 Z1100A3, 83 GS650 Katana
WooHoo, I'm a Man Point Millionaire! https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=234035

[Rogerborg]

[Louise]

I started to rattle can the R1 but gave up after the two lower fairings too forever to get right.
Im looking at £400 for two colours.

[Shaft]

Looks good Roger

One thing I will say is (and this is not a criticism) is that it slightly lacks the depth you get from a gun, which is one of faults of aerosols, due to the paint being very thin.

I've got some old RD250 panels lurking in my garage and, prompted by this thread, I'm thinking about doing a 'how to' guide, detailing a few of the dos and don'ts of home repairing/spraying, if anyone thinks that might be useful?
____________________
Things get better with age; I'm close to being magnificent........
20 RE Interceptor, 83 Z1100A3, 83 GS650 Katana
WooHoo, I'm a Man Point Millionaire! https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=234035

[StevenF]

[Phoenix]

[ZRX61]

[Frost]

I've made rattle can paintjobs look spot on before, but it does take a lot of time and even some trial and error. Obviously you have all the prep work to do as usual, but i find rattle can paint needs lots of primer, and it has to be perfect. Even then the finish is crap once laquerd, so i usually put on loads and loads of laquer (5+ coats) then once that's hardened for a week or more i flat it down with some polish. On one bike i used Autosol to get the laquer completely flat, it seriously looked like it had just come out of a showroom

[Rogerborg]

Sure, you won't get the same quality as a proper professional job, but you don't have to aim for that. I went with a metallic with a fair bit of sparkle, on the basis that as you get closer it catches the eye and distracts from the lack of genuine depth.

Anyway, it worked out well for me, and fitted my budget and the look I wanted. My point remains that if you've got the time and inclination, it's worth having go.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[Phoenix]

[tutton]

[ZRX61]

[Shaft]

[ZRX61]

I usually just point them at tutorials on the web & leave them be
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[tutton]

lol tutorial for all
use a roller! so much easier
flat out the roller marks
jokes.

ha i remember the days of paint threads and the flames,
ps i hate solvent basecoat, waterbase FTW
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Past: '05 Peugeot XPS '99 Aprillia RS125 '94 FZR600R
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