Rear Shock - Preload Adjustment - Slight Problem

[robbieguy2003]

Hi All,

I'm trying to adjust the preload on the 600rr. This has followed on from me adjusting the front pre-load (harder) and getting a much better ride with what seems to be better feel from the front.

I'm now trying to do the same for the rear, I think the rear is ok when riding Solo but could do with more when I have a pillion, so i'm trying to find a happy medium.

With this in mind, I set out to the garage with the C Spanner tool from the kit and looked for what i need to adjust. Having found it I cant get it to move at all, it kinda nearly starts to move and then the C Spanner or me give up.

I've attached pictures of the shock and the tool i'm using.


https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/tool_small.jpg

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/shock_small.jpg

I know it's a bit messy under there so i'm wondering if the adjuster has seized? Do I need to man up and seriously twist this? is it fucked? is the OEM tool shite?

After some ideas really, the front was nice and easy, this bit isn't and the general area is shitted up so wouldn't be surprised if it needs some TLC before I can move on.

Any thoughts from someone familiar with rear shocks would be appreciated.

The reason I'm doing this now is because I'm more plump than when I bought the bike, the handling has been going off over time and most of it seems to be down to the pies!


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Current Bikes: Honda CBR 600RR - '07, Suzuki GSX1250 FA ST '11
Old Bikes: Suzuki Intruder 125 LC - '2001, Honda CBR 600F - '92, Honda CBR 600RR - '03

[andys675]

you need more leverage on the tool, stick a pole on the end of it

(i don't mean east european type)

[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

They are a pain when near the end of adjustment. Make sure it's flat to the body of the shock and wrap a rag around your hand (or an old glove) easy to not give it enough pull if you're feared of bashing your knuckles.
I've never needed to use an extension on my C-Spanners.

Slightly off topic, but have you measured the sag, as adding more rear preload may require a change to the front to keep the bike balanced.
____________________
Diabolical homemade music Bandcamp and Soundcloud
Singer songwriter, Artist and allround good bloke Listen to Andrew Susan Johnston here
The Harry Turner Project

[Acemastr]

Mine adjusts fine on a paddock stand, it's rather tight but it does go.
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2017 KTM 350 XC-F - 2014 Yamaha R6 - 2005 Yamaha YZ125
2016 Toyota Tacoma Limited

[BigGeeking]

i have a fight with mine in the end i put wd40 on had a coffee then it was easy just put a rag round to catch the spray off and drips
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Bendy "Flip front. I can filter down the M4 while shoving a Twix in my face."
honda CG 125 2001 SOLD-- current Bandit 400--SOLD. current SV650s 2000
MOD 1 ON 20/7/2011**passed** MOD 2 ON 17/10/2011***passed***,,

[robbieguy2003]

Cheers for the tips. I popped upto the Honda Shop (Gedges) in Ore. The guys there done 3 clicks and 1.5 turns harder as they couldnt get it to go either. Apparantly that'd compensate a bit which it seems to have done.

They said either pop back and leave it with them or WD40 it and keep playing and it'll go.

Cheers for the tips.

I'd went through quite a few suspension guides before deciding to piss around with it. I think either Big Ham or Marjay posted a zip file recently with a guide. I followed that, plus a magazine guide, plus some others online.

I spent ages with a measuring tape and got all the original settings first. I've got a ~45 mile test run that I do with each change, it's got a nice mix of 30mph all the way upto 70mph dual carriageway with lots of NSL lanes in the middle. So far the changes have been good but i'm doing one at a time then will go back if it feels odd or try and understand whats going on.
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Current Bikes: Honda CBR 600RR - '07, Suzuki GSX1250 FA ST '11
Old Bikes: Suzuki Intruder 125 LC - '2001, Honda CBR 600F - '92, Honda CBR 600RR - '03

[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

I also have to run my bikes in a compromised state.
I'm still kicking myself for not setting the duc properly. I'd set the rebound and compression to spec but hadn't set the sag. Bike handled ok if a little reluctant to tip in(hindsight eh).
All set now and i've lessened the compression. The bike is different. It drops into corners and stays there. Front follows the roads surface better.
I've got 1 setting for 2up riding.I'll have to get a setting for solo on these bumpy roads i use.
I've been practising bouncing the bike whilst stood beside it. Hand on the headstock hand on the seat (above top mount). I can see how fast the suspension pops back up and how quick or slow it takes to compress..Get the front and rear to mirror each other..The rest is Black Magic.
____________________
Diabolical homemade music Bandcamp and Soundcloud
Singer songwriter, Artist and allround good bloke Listen to Andrew Susan Johnston here
The Harry Turner Project

[Fizzer Thou]

That standard tool is so useless it is not worth using.I would recommend a full service of the rear of the bike as it could otherwise hide all sorts of problems which will only get worse and then let you down big time and expensively.
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Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[robbieguy2003]