Honda CG Back Brake

[BikeNewbie]

Hello,

My back brake pedal is really stiff, If I push it down, It will just stay down, I have tried adjusting the brake at the back will and still nothing.

Any ideas?

[FirebladeRuss]

Would imagine the cable's stuffed.

On my GZ the rear brake would not fully release. Mainly due to cable becoming sticky over time and there not being enough "spring" in the rear drum mechanism or pedal to shove the cable back once the pedal has been released.

When I had a new tyre fitted, I had a play with the drum mechanism and it was fine - lovely and smooth. Hence cable was shown to be up goosed.
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[FBSF]

Grease.

WAIT - not the shoes

The spindle that the brake lever spins around may need greasing, as may the pivot inbetween the brake shoes (but be careful - any grease on the shoe linings will render the brake useless).

That normally does the trick. It could also be the spindle for the actuator arm (the bit the brake rod goes through)

If it's an old CG, be careful when taking the shoes & plate out - old shoe lining material used to contain asbestos...

[BikeNewbie]

Well i'm not quite sure what to do. Haha.

[FirebladeRuss]

Erm...no offence, but if you don't know what to do or where to start based on the responses above, wouldn't you be better off taking it to someone who does?

When I discovered mine was sticking, I took stuff apart to have a look and pinpoint which bit was causing the problem.
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[BikeNewbie]

It's fine mate, I don't know much about Bikes still. A Bike shop near to me said he will do it for £25.

Not sure whether its good or not? He said it sounds like it's some muck build up and needs cleaning out.

Thanks.

[FirebladeRuss]

Could be a build of dust in the rear drum, could be the cable, could be the pedal spring.

Worst case, a new cable is likely to be £20 ish + fitting (which is not hard), anything else is just his labour time.
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[Andy_Pagin]

[johnsmith222]

[stinkwheel]

[stinkwheel]

dp
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

tp
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[johnsmith222]

[BikeNewbie]

Okay, Thanks for the replies!

I will take it to the Bike Shop tomorrow and get it sorted.

Thanks.

[chris-red]

[blurredman]

[FBSF]

I am real. Google asbestosis.

It's not touching it that's the problem. It's inhaling the dust - one particle in the wrong place is all it takes.

Granted, the longer the exposure the higher the risk, but if someone isn't aware of the risk and starts blowing the dust out of the drum, and then breathes in a cloud of it...

[von1papen]

Your rear brake pedal isn't returning? First thing springs to mind is the actual return spring! May be stretched and worn, few quid off ebay to replace. May have nothing to do with the Drum brakes themselves

Also why are people talking about a rear brake cable? There is no cable........ its a metal rod from the pedal to the brake arm!!! Not a cable!

however its a piss easy job to remove the wheel, give the brakes and hub a sand to break any glaze, bung some brake cleaner in there too! grease up the brake arm spindle as well would improve matters.

I suggest getting a haynes manual and learning yourself, otherwise every time some little niggle appears you'll be running to mechanic instead of "oh yeah, thats easy to fix I've done that before".

I've had a Honda CG for well over a year now and servicing the rear drum brakes would probably take me half an hour at most.

[BikeNewbie]

Okay, I have just looked at the Bike again. It seems that the Brake only gets stiff when it is on the Centre Stand.

But when I move the Bike it is fine.

[von1papen]

I wouldn't worry too much then, as long as the brake goes on when you need it to on the road! However as I suggested I'd invest some time in reading the manual and learning how to do these jobs yerself!

[stinkwheel]

Or you could always look at my little howto I did a while back.

Although I notice I didn't mention greasing cleaning and the pivots at the pedal end. I reckon you can work that out for yourself though.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=174773
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[von1papen]

Haha I used that article myself! Better than the haynes because its in colour (and is actually explained reasonably well too)

You'll need to know this especially if yours is a front drum brake model

[darthbuttchin]

It is a metal rod that attaches to the pedal. The only cable involved with the back brake is the one attached to a long spring which activates the rear light when the pedal is depressed.

Just do some basic cleaning really. If you want the haynes manual in pdf form, PM me and I'll send it to you.

The Drum Brakes are pretty easy to sort out, just dont get grease on the pads!

Mine's from '78 - we weren't sure about asbestos or not, but with me being asthmatic, Dad advised me not to blow any of the dust out that was in there anyway.

db
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CG125-K1 (1978) - 35 years old and (mostly) going strong! (Restored and rebuilt by my own fair hands).
Call me Tomsk - I am the Flying Womble after all.