Kawk KH100

[Kawksam]

Getting a Kawasaki kh100 and need to sort points out, what's the procedure for setting point gap and the the gap measurement.

It's got new points and coil which is a bonus.

[Pete.]

I dunno what the gap should be but I'd guess about 0.4mm, you set it using a brass feeler gauge to stop the feeler being caught by the rotor magnets.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[cb1rocket]

hard to explain without going into detail.

basically its this extract from a Honda, the same pretty much applies.

scroll down for the extract from the manual.

Although your wire colour will be different. You will see the what colour wire as it comes off the contact breaker assembly

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=193662

[cb1rocket]

sorry went a step too far but Pete is right and the procedure to see if it fires up the time is in the link

[Kawksam]

Thanks for that, might get local mechanic to do it for first time and get it right.

[Pete.]

If you've no experience it might be best. Try to find an old boy though, because many mechanics nowadays won't have even seen a set of points.

I'm wondering though - if it's fitted with new points, what makes you think they need adjusting?
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Vincent]

Is the KH100 a rotary disc motor like the 125. According to my 125 manual, you don't set the points gap, just when it opens through the window on the magneto.
" there is no adjustment for maximum points gap"

On the 125, you can set the timing with the piston positioned at 2.52mm BTDC. If you use the timing marks, you'll get it +or- 0.22mm within that. If you use a dial gauge, you can get it bang on which will make a difference to running. So you really need a dial gauge and multi meter to get it perfect.

Can post the relevant section if you like but check the 100 is the same as the 125 first.
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Space Is Deep

[Pete.]

The gap and the timing are directly related. If you alter the gap, the ignition timing changes. That's why you do the gap first (to set the dwell), then the timing. Weird that they should say there is no adjustment.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Kawksam]

The person I am buying it off says it could do with them adjusting, I know a good person who can sort it and give it a check over.

If ring up a Kawasaki dealership do you think they can give me the point gap measurement.

[Vincent]

[Pete.]

I guess if the ramp angle of the points cam was quite steep, it wouldn't make a whole lot of difference to the dwell what the gap was.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[karthead]

OOOH OOOOOOOOHHHH I HAVE SOMETHING TO ADD!
Let me start off with this: i have a KE125 engine, similar to kh100. And if the magnetos are the same, then i have something to tell you that will get it running awesomely.
Okay, so the magneto has two slots in it, correct? okay. i was told the point gap for my KE125 is .35mm, dunno if the same applies to your bike. when i finished putting it all together, it fired up, but was a bitch to start. so i took it apart. one thing that you need to know that the points need to open 3mm from tdc (top dead centre). when i slowly rotated the magneto, the i could see through the slots of the magneto exactly when the points opened in relation to the position of the piston, and it was too early. close the gap to make it open later, open the gap to make it open earlier. so i shoved in the .3mm feeler gauge (i think thats the size) and it looked perfect to me, although i havent started it up yet.
moral of the story: make it .35mm as a start, look at the position of the piston when the points open, and then if need be, adjust the gap untill it looks right to you.
i hope this helps

[Vincent]

Andre, according to the WM, you can only adjust when the points start to open. Normal points have two sets of adjusting pegs, these only have one that positions the stator plate. You need to be careful, sometimes advancing the ignition will give you more power, but it can also cause a meltdown 2.52mm BTDC is where you want the points to open on the 125, if you get yerself a dial gauge, (you can get them with a spark plug thread adapter), you'll get it bang on.

Also, take note of what I say above about early models having TWO timing marks, one is actually to let you know where the woodruff key is positioned as it's not visible when you replace the flywheel mag..
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Space Is Deep

[karthead]

[Vincent]

Yep, the smallest difference in ignition timing can have a big effect, at 3mm you are advancing the ignition which can make it run faster but as above, could also cause a meltdown or hole the piston. 0.75mm might not sound a lot but in this case, it is. For using a strobe, Kawasaki recommend you get it to within 0.22mm either way. Some people fit custom stator plates on tuned two strokes to advance the ignition as much as they can get away with but it's a fine line between max power and total meltdown. When I started riding bikes, me and my mates would take our bikes to this bloke in the neigbourhood who would set the timing using a dial gauge and it would make a very noticable difference.
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Space Is Deep

[Vincent]

Oh, and yes, 3mm is "advancing the ignition" as you are setting it to fire 0.75 before it should. "retarding" the ignition would be having it fire after it should. the idea is to get the cylinder to fire just at the right time. You'd think the best time would be at Top Dead Centre but, as the combustion takes time, (tiny though it is), the big bang comes just after the plug has sparked so the piston is still moving up the cylinder until max power from the combustion is reached, (see "squish"). If it fires too early, it will try and push the piston back the other way. Too late and you have lost the opportunity for max efficiency. There is also the variant of how fast the engine is running to add into the equation, the higher the revs, the shorter time the igniting gases have to reach max power, tuned two strokes are timed to fire at the best position at high revs. I dare say this is where the power band comes from, ie; why the bike has much more power at certain revs.
I think that's right

hth
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Space Is Deep

[cb1rocket]

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/930347-test-your-timing-for-only-15-dial-gauge-dial-indictor-ignition-timing/

make your own tool. you can buy the kit buts its so expensive!

[Vincent]

[karthead]

[Vincent]

A ruler won't cut it I'm afraid. If you're short of tools, you can either use a multi meter or even just a 12V light bulb and the timing marks. You might be able to pick a strobe up quite cheap but the engine needs to be running to use it. Wherabouts are you?
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Space Is Deep

[karthead]

[Kawksam]

Think I will get garage to do it, it's abit technical for me lol.

[cb1rocket]

I would do it for you if your near, piss easy once you know what your doing

[Kawksam]

I'll get a book for it, haven't picked best day to pick a bike up pissing down with rain,

Can I check the crank shaft seals by sniffing gear box oil see if it smells of petrol

[karthead]